Brand New 10FCPLE -Bolt Will Not Close

Hey folks, I sure hope someone can ease my mind. I recently purchased a brand new 10FCPLE with an HS Perc Stock and it is a beauty. This is my first Savage center fire rifle and I own many others (Ruger, Browning, Remingtons, Marlin). I wanted to see how the DBM functioned so I loaded up a few cartridges that I had reloaded for my sons .308 Mod. 700 Rem. The DBM worked fine, however the bolt would not close and I actually had trouble getting the bolt to pull out. My first thought was since this was a reloaded casing that had been previously fired in another gun it was tight. I grabbed a once fired empty brass case fired in another sons Browning (still had spent primer in it), and I tried the same exercise. Same result! I measured the case length and it was 2.010" long, well with in the max length. I next punched the primer out and the bolt now closed by was very tight and the bolt was very tuff to cycle, but it did. Then I remembered that the bolt came in the box from Buds uinstalled. I did have to swivel the bolt guide to get it to line up with the slots in the receiver. Could I have turned it the wrong way and made the fit between the bolt guide and the extractor head(my term for the end of the bolt) to tight? Would turning the bolt guide portion counter clockwise a few times help out? Does turning it one way or the other decrease or increase the gap between the bolt guide and the extractor head period? I don't recall having this issue with any of the other bolt guns I have owned in the past. Any guidance and feed back would be appreciated. As a note I have been shooting for 40 years and not new to guns just new to Savage Centerfires. This has me puzzled and of course the Savage data that came with my gun has no trouble shooting section.

Thanks in advance

Was the reloaded cartridge full length resized?

No the reloaded cart. was necked sized only. The empty case I tried has not been resized at all. My next step is to either run out and buy a box of factory ammo and/or full length size a case or two and try it. This did cross my mind as being an issue, but I would understand the bolt being tight but not even closing? I hope that is it and i'll chalk it up to being a dumb@$$. Just sort of in a panic mode right now since my new baby is so new.

Did you by chance install a scope recently? The SHORTER screws on the bases must be used on the front base for the bolt to function properly.

If the bolt closes normally without a cartridge in it then you need unfired brass, or full length resize anything fired in a different rifle. Should be just fine. (No question is a dumb question.) :)

My first though is the stock and the screws are to long. The rear can touch the bolt body and the front can extend up onto the locking lug way blocking travel. back them out one at a time and see what happens. the other thing is the rear screw in the front base that can also stick down in and catch the bolt lug.

Blue: I found that issue in another post and tried it, it made no difference what so ever. The stock is the original stock that came with on the gun, however I did take it out to adjust the accutrigger. Regardless I tried it and it hand no effect. Thanks for the suggestion though. I am heading to Wally World to buy some plinker rounds and will see how they fit. I am interested though in the bolt and if rotating (tightening/loosening) the rotating portion of the bolt (bolt guide) will have any effect down the road, regardless of weather this is my issue or not.

Thanks again

:-[ Well the problem is solved. I ran to Walmart picked up some plinking rounds and they cycle through the rifle with out a hitch. Thanks to all who commented and provided advice. A true testament to the quality of this website and its members. The funny thing is I have been reloading for 20+years and knew you should never shoot a prefired neck sized case in another rifle but I had NO idea they could be so tight. I'll keep this little episode in the memory banks for sure. Now I just need to find some time to shoot this gun. Again this is my first Savage and first precision style rifle. After doing a ton of research and reading the post of other Mod 10 owners I can hardly stand it.

Thanks again

Must be normal for them. I've got 2 of those 10FCP-HS rifles (one has the 5r barrel) and they will accept once fired brass from each other but not from my Ruger, and brass from my TC Encore will barely fit them. The chambers must be minimum spec.
FYI - The one with standard barrel didn't start really grouping till after 80 rounds and then it started putting 5 rounds into holes 1/2 inch wide once in a while. The 5r barrel was shooting good right off the bat. All I've shot so far is 168 grain Amax bullets in hornady ammo.
These are great rifles and I hope you enjoy yours as much as I like shooting mine.

Maxima thanks for the feedback. I was actually glad to see the tolerances so tight on mine. I struggled between the 5R and rifled barrel, decided to go heavy in lieu of the taper and threaded end. I don't ever see me putting a suppressor or break on mine plus getting a little more metal for my money some how helped me justify spending the $, the ole quantity over quality thing I guess. I'll post a report once I get her dialed in.

The chamber on my 10FCP was also really tight.

I do not know for sure, but I have been told, (and you know how that goes) that Savage holds the LE series to pretty tight tolerances.

I have three of the FLCP-k's, a .223, a 308, and a 300 Win mag (a Savage custom shop product). Each will accept a GO gauge and just barely start to accept a NO GO gauge.

They all shoot pretty good, too.

uj

Savage holds the tolerances the same on all guns, if you want to accept the fact that they can hold a tolerance. If you compare dimensions on the blue prints to measurements of the actual parts, you might be shocked.
I will say one thing, headspace is the most consistant dimension they hold.