Model 10 FCP HS Precision .308 - first impressions

I just received my Model 10 FCP HS Precision .308, and wanted to post a few initial observations for anyone considering one. It was on sale at EuroOptic for $799. I'd been looking around and doing some research for a while, and the FCP HS Precision seemed like the right choice for me. Most were selling for $1000 to $1100 +, so when I found it for $800 I though it was a good time to pull the trigger.

I purchased this realizing that many rip on Savage due to the bolt effort, which seems like a non-issue unless you are competing or in a hurry. I've added the longer "Tactical" bolt handle, which I happen to find on sale at Midway for $25. Not sure why it doesn't come standard on this rifle. It helps. While I had the bolt apart to replace the handle I looked it over and found some burrs/gouges on the firing pin assy and the inside of the cocking sleeve which I smoothed out. With some lube it's getting better - but it's definitely no Tikka.

The Savage is more like a pick-up truck than a sports sedan. I considered the Tikka T3x CTR but didn't care for the stock. The Tikka was $100 more, but really needed a stock upgrade ($400 to $500) to be competitive with the Savage. Most other Tikkas have a "lite" barrel that tended to shift as they heat up.

The overall finish on the metal and stock are OK - I'd say a 7 out of 10. The finish on the barrel is satin with a slight texture. The stock (HS Precision) is flat black with a fair amount of texture. It's not going to win any beauty contests.

I bought this model specifically for the heavy barrel and the target-style stock. Most of my shooting will be prone or off the bench at 100, 300, or 600 yards. I'm more concerned about accuracy and function than aesthetics with this rifle.

I installed a SWFA 12x42 MIL scope on a Leupond 1-piece base with SWFA Tactical rings. The SWFA scopes were initially designed for the military, are made in Japan, and have a good rep with long distance shooters. They have a ton of adjustment and track accurately the entire way . SWFA sells them direct for $300. Basic, but adequate for up to 1000 yards from most accounts. Also have a Matthews Cheek Riser otw.

I'm hoping to get out with it shortly to do a brief break-in and get it zero'd. It should do well with Federal GMM 168s way past where I will be shooting it. Eventually I'll reload, but for now am using mostly PPU ammo until I feel I'm ready for something better.

Overall it's what I was expecting - maybe more considering the price. Hopefully it will live up to its reputation for accuracy.

I think you made a good choice. The stock is a decent foundation. The action is the base of a lot of accurate rifles and they shoot good out of the box.

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Originally Posted by Robinhood

I think you made a good choice. The stock is a decent foundation. The action is the base of a lot of accurate rifles and they shoot good out of the box.

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Thanks.

I've read many comments by yourself and members here that convinced me it was a solid choice. It has its fans elsewhere (non Savage forums) as well. Most of the negative comments are related to the bolt action, which I don't consider a significant issue. I know (from research) there are "Lift Kits", but I'm satisfied with it for now. Most of the accuracy results I've seen have been excellent - and some have been amazing.

Especially with my budget (under $1300 total - rifle, scope/mounts, cheek riser), I think it was the best option.

I have a Metthews Fabrication cheek riser on my rifle and I love it.

Got it set-up and ready to go -

https://i.imgur.com/fX7JFAn.jpg

Painted the stock with SEM chipguard (like my Mark II stock here - https://www.savageshooters.com/showt...ck-impressions) installed the Matthews cheek rest, Harris bipod, and cleaned/lubed it.

Also decided to powder coat the Accutrigger blade in red like the match trigger groups on the Model 12 LRP for a little detail.

Might try the .357 case DIY bolt lift kit to see if it makes a noticeable improvement, but it's not bad as it is.

Nice looking rig....and timely post, as I'm heavily considering this same rifle. I'm looking forward to an update once you've been to the range.

Finally an update...

Due to all that's going on, and other issues, I hadn't had a chance to take the rifle out until now.

Spent some time at a 100M private range over the weekend, mostly sighting in and doing a break-in. Taking the advice of charlie b, I decided to spend some time doing a fairly exhaustive break-in procedure based on Savage's recommendation. Basically shoot...clean...shoot...clean...repeat...

My first shots with light ball ammo were disappointing. After finishing the break-in process I went to some PPU 168gr, with better results, but still plenty of room for improvement. After a box of PPU I changed to Federal GMM 168s. As the rounds started to add up the groups started to improve.

By the end it had done 2 back-to-back 3-round groups of 1" at 100 M. One by me and one by my son.

Not a definitive accuracy test I know, but it was very encouraging. I'm sure my technique can use some improvement.

I'm planning to attend a Long Range class when the local range offers it again, and will be able to see how it holds up out to 600 yards.

So far so good, and I'm happy with the rifle. I have about $1300 in it total with the scope, mount, and bipod.

The 12X SWFA scope ($300 reg price) is very bright and sharp. I've changed over to all Milrad scopes, and I really like them. When shooting at 100M, you can just measure the distance in cm the shot needs to move - and that's the number of clicks. 1 click = 1cm @100M and so on. Simple (like me).

Where are you located jkv45 ?

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Originally Posted by yobuck

Where are you located jkv45 ?

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S. Central WI

Congratulations. Seems like it is starting to settle down. I've never had much luck with std factory ammo. Federal GMM and similar are closer to what I can hand load.

You might try some different weight bullets to see if they do better. I'd try 175's and 155's to see which of the three are better.

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Originally Posted by charlie b

Congratulations. Seems like it is starting to settle down. I've never had much luck with std factory ammo. Federal GMM and similar are closer to what I can hand load.

You might try some different weight bullets to see if they do better. I'd try 175's and 155's to see which of the three are better.

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It certainly looked like it was moving in the right direction. I had expected that it may take more rounds to start to see any improvement.

Eventually I'll do more serious testing, and will pick-up some other bullet weights to try.

I may or may not have followed a somewhat extended break-in procedure if I hadn't read your recommendation. I'm glad I took the time to do it.

Thanks.

YW. The break in would certainly have saved me some range time :) I ended up using some Iosso paste in mine and it helped a little. Mine is still just a little better than MOA most of the time with jacketed. With cast is is more in the 1 to 1 1/2MOA depending on how good a job I do on the bullets :)

800 bucks is good deal, i was literally hours away from purchasing the same rifle for the 1100, but decided to research it, and after chatting w/ these guys on here, my mind changed to the 12fv. i got three diff calibers for same $. but, i like your price, and eventually if i put a precision stock on them, my deal/$ wont be so good. i got 12 swfa also, but in moa. the embarassing part is, i havent even shot any of them yet in the 4 months i had them. im gonna inspect my bolt assemblys bettter for burs, as you mentioned, cuz one seems to stick more than the others, when its all the way back, and i start to push it forward

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Originally Posted by ice tea

800 bucks is good deal, i was literally hours away from purchasing the same rifle for the 1100, but decided to research it, and after chatting w/ these guys on here, my mind changed to the 12fv. i got three diff calibers for same $. but, i like your price, and eventually if i put a precision stock on them, my deal/$ wont be so good. i got 12 swfa also, but in moa. the embarassing part is, i havent even shot any of them yet in the 4 months i had them. im gonna inspect my bolt assemblys bettter for burs, as you mentioned, cuz one seems to stick more than the others, when its all the way back, and i start to push it forward

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The HS Precision stock is nice, but I saw a similar new Choate stock the other day for around $200. I thought the HS Precision stock was twice that.

There may be other sites that have it for less than this ($219) -https://www.eabco.net/Choate-Tactica...s_p_14690.html

Some discussion on other stock options - https://www.savageshooters.com/showt...ck-Suggestions

What are the differences or advantages of the Model 12 over the Model 10?

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Originally Posted by jkv45

What are the differences or advantages of the Model 12 over the Model 10?

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jkv. thanks for the link on the stock, half the cost is worth looking into. like i said, im a begginer, havent even fired a shot yet, but from what i read/research, the precision has aluminum reinforcing in it, to keep it more rigid than some others.
funny you ask that, cuz that was my first question when i got here
http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...odel-10-and-12

As an update to a thread I started a while back -

Finally had the chance to shoot the rifle out a bit farther this weekend. I'd done some break-in and shot a few groups at 100M, and was getting less than 1 MOA fairly quickly.

Took a long range (actually mid-range) shooting class this weekend and got my first chance to shoot past 100 yards - ever. I was shooting with factory .308 Federal GMM 168gr, and we started at 350yds on 12 x 12" plates. I was the only one in the class of 8 that was shooting prone off a bag. Most shot off the bench with a rest. I was also the only one shooting .308. Most had 6.5 CM, and the most popular rifle brand was Savage.

My ballistic chart was pretty close, but did require a bit of tweaking as we went to 400, 450, 500, 550, and finally 600 yards.

I hit the plate first shot at every distance, but not always in the center. When we finally got out to 600 yds I was pretty dialed-in, and hit center 2 out of 2.

Overall I have been very happy with my .308 Model 10 FCP HS Precision, and it has performed as expected or better so far. I may take another class at a range with 1200 yards, but even with 175gr FGMM I'm not expecting to get the same results out that far. Excellent accuracy out to 800, or maybe 1000 tops, is what I have heard to expect - which would be fine with me.

I've yet to shoot any 175 GMM, but plan to test some when I can find it at a fairly reasonable price. Currently it's over $2 per round.

Good to hear that you had a good experience.

JKV, sounds like you are doing well. Keep us informed and let us know how you do on the 1000 yd. range.

Congratulations. Sounds like you are on a good track. The cost of the Federal GMM is worth it when you are looking for accuracy. Black Hills makes good stuff too if you can find it. Same with the Army match ammo (M118?) Then there is Lapua if you can find it and afford it :)

Thanks guys.

I'm pretty new to precision rifle shooting, but having a good time and learning a lot.

Hopefully they will offer a class in the near future at the range that goes out to 1200 yds.

The Savage wasn't the most beautiful or prestigious rifle on the line, but it got the job done as well as any.

Savages aren't considered pretty among the cognoscenti but I have 7 of them and they all shoot as well as rifles costing 2 to 3 times as much.
From what I can tell, Savage barrels are accurate right out of the box.
All I needed to do was learn to shoot them.
I agree with you that Savages get the job done that they were intended to perform and, to me, that counts more than how they look.

I have one HS Precision stock and find that it does not need any modification at all to perform extremely well.
It is on one of my best shooting rifles.
I also have 3 Accu-stocks in 3 calibers (.308, 6.5mm CM & .22-250) that perform very well.
All three of the hidden mag Savage stocks have been replaced with either a Bell & Carlson Adjustable match stock on one of my .308s or with an Oryx chassis on a .223 and 6.5mm CM.
I would recommend that you experiment with different bullet weights to see what the barrel prefers. You may be surprised.
By the way, I believe that you will find that your rifle may not perform best with the bullets or bullet weights that others tell you will be best or that you expected would be the best.
Only your own barrel can tell you what it prefers.

I have two Savage .308s, both 24-inch barrels.
One shoots 155 grain TMKs better than anything else but also shoots 168s SMKs and TMKs almost as well.
The other shoots 175 SMKs and TMKs best but also shoots 195 TMKs just about as well.
Of the two, the one that favors 175 grain bullets and heavier at would be my preferred long range shooting rifle since 175 loads with muzzle velocities of at least 2450 fps will stay supersonic out to 1000 yards. 168s probably won't stay supersonic past 800 yards.

All of my hand loads out shoot factory ammo in all my Savage rifles.
Factory ammo is almost always loaded for velocity - since that is what sells.
If you are an accuracy nut, you will find that you really do have to tune your loads to what the rifle shoots best.
None of my Savages, in any of the calibers I own, shoot the most accurately at factory ammo velocities.

Here is a link with the powder-bullet combinations that work best in each of my .308s.
https://www.savageshooters.com/showt...Savage-LE-308s

Unfortunately, none of the .308 loads are with factory ammo.
If you are so inclined, you might look into hand loading when you get more familiar with your rifle and want to take it to the next level of accuracy.

Thanks for all the info CF. Your bullet and load testing data is very interesting.

For now my testing will have to be with different factory ammo, but to take it to the next level I realize I need to hand load.

At this point with my skill level ultimate accuracy isn't required, and the added complexity of testing hand loads would hamper my learning of the basics.

Good stuff!:thumb: Now start reloading! You won’t be sorry & will ALWAYS have more accurate loads. Just some very basic case prep and care taken will yield more accurate ammo than ANYTHING off the shelf!

Also, now you can start tweaking the little things. You can do some things to make the bolt lift NON-extistant! I have a video on here somewhere, actuating the bolt after pulling the trigger. It’s really light! Can also look into doing an Accutrigger job. Triggers are a very preferential. Especially the Accutrigger. Seems people either LOVE ‘em, or HATE ‘em! (Mostly the later) I love my custom Accutrigger & wouldn’t trade it for anything! And yes....I’ve used the various moderate to very expensive aftermarket jobs. Nah....I’ll stick with MY custom Accutrigger that cost me a couple bucks for new springs, shims & set screw. Little bit of “love” can go a long way to making your rig a more enjoyable tool. Glad to hear the success & wish you well for future, and FURTHER, outings!

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Originally Posted by Dave Hoback

Good stuff!:thumb: Now start reloading! You won’t be sorry & will ALWAYS have more accurate loads. Just some very basic case prep and care taken will yield more accurate ammo than ANYTHING off the shelf!

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Always is a definitive word Dave. Some just don't get it. Kind of like being a Savagesmith. Anybody can do it. Some just screw it up more than the rest of us. Trust me. I have bought some of it unbeknownst to me of coarse. Twisted actions, ground off bolthead corners. Sheared lug anti rotation pins....and on and on and on. :)

Agreed. I get it.

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Originally Posted by Dave Hoback

Good stuff!:thumb: Now start reloading! You won’t be sorry & will ALWAYS have more accurate loads. Just some very basic case prep and care taken will yield more accurate ammo than ANYTHING off the shelf!

Also, now you can start tweaking the little things. You can do some things to make the bolt lift NON-extistant! I have a video on here somewhere, actuating the bolt after pulling the trigger. It’s really light! Can also look into doing an Accutrigger job. Triggers are a very preferential. Especially the Accutrigger. Seems people either LOVE ‘em, or HATE ‘em! (Mostly the later) I love my custom Accutrigger & wouldn’t trade it for anything! And yes....I’ve used the various moderate to very expensive aftermarket jobs. Nah....I’ll stick with MY custom Accutrigger that cost me a couple bucks for new springs, shims & set screw. Little bit of “love” can go a long way to making your rig a more enjoyable tool. Glad to hear the success & wish you well for future, and FURTHER, outings!

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Thanks Dave.

I have seen the video about modifying the bolt-lift, and have done it. Much better than it was, and doesn't present any issues for me.

I have reloaded pistol calibers in the past, and have most of what I need for rifle except the dies. Reloading is on the list of things to do - right after "Learn to shoot...".

So far, I feel I'm on the right track, but with a lot to learn.

Thanks to everyone here for sharing their technical knowledge - and for the encouragement!

I know I'm late to the party but I've come across a used one at a little over five. It's been shot very little. This thread has geared me in the direction of my the purchase.

I've purchased several Savages, the last three with the new triggers. They're amazing compared to the original ones, although not as good as a Timney.

Someone recently explained how well their rifle shoots with Norma 147gr ball. My Remington, which usually shoots 1/2 with 168gr FGMM, wouldn't shoot less than 3 1/2-4 inch groups. Doesn't matter, Norma brass is great for reloading.

Does Savage make a larger capacity magazine?