Planned 116 build/modification plan

Hi Everyone

Been a lurker on the site for a while and finally jumped in and joined!

I've decided to modify/upgrade my main hunting rifle, a 116 XP Trophy Hunter in 30-06 that is 6 years old. I am upgrading it for two reasons - looks like a fun project (!! :p ) and I want to start stretching my hunting range from 300 yards to 500 yards, and I want to make sure it is as accurate as it needs to be to hit what I am aiming at. Accuracy goal is 1/2 - 3/4 MOA at 200 yards.

Phase 1 plan:
1. Complete disassembly and cleaning, including bolt, barrel, etc.
2. Re-assemble complete, swapping out recoil lug and barrel nut (NSS) and installing the Savage 10BA tactical bolt head
3. Adjust Accu-trigger to between 2.5 and 3lbs.
4. Replace stock with laminate thumbhole stock, probably Boyd's
5. Reinstall scope, bedding a 1 part scope base and lapping rings

Phase 2:
1. Pillar bed and glass bed stock (if needed)
2. Cerakote action and barrel

Any thoughts, comments, ideas, changes? Curious what others have done when focused on a hunting build.

I
1 Good
2 All good but why don't you just put some 400 sandpaper on a piece of glass, put some lubricant on it and rub the recoil lug in figure 8's until you have a very uniform finish across the face. Also there is no need to change the bolt head but the tactical bolt handle would be a good thing. If SSS still sells their handle get that one. It is nice and not much weight. Also adding a good bolt lift kit would be a good thing.
3 Sounds like a plan.
4 I Like thumbhole stocks.
5 Bedding the rail is a good improvement... is a nice touch. Quality rings and correct installation go a long way.

II
1 If you want accuracy, pillar and bedding, even if it is just threaded lamp rod and J-B Weld, goes a long way.
2 Nice touch if done right. Aluma-hyde II will do the job for a lot less.

If you like to reload and really want to make a difference at the 600 yd target go with a 6.5 swede, 6.5-06, or maybe even a 280 or 284. maybe even something else that uses the .473 Bolt Head. The 6.5mm and 7mm are a big improvement ballistically over the .30 cal unless you go to the 200 plus weight projectiles. (Jim, the Forum boss has a screaming deal on a high end 284 barrel.)

Good luck with your project. Things always go better when you have a budget and a plan.

Hi Robinhood

Thanks for the comments and suggestions.

On the budget and plan, my approach to accuracy is focus on consistency first, and upgrade the rifle to remove as many variances as possible, besides me of course :p. Budget is not huge because this is my day in and day out hunting rifle, but I can afford and would like to have a high quality rifle. I guesstimate my budget to be roughly $500 for upgrades - I am not counting the rifle or scope because I already have those.

On the recoil lug and barrel nut, my particular Trophy XP has the standard shank smooth barrel nut, and since I will be disassembling completely (including taking barrel off to clean the gunk out of the barrel nut area) I figured it was a good time to upgrade to the machined components versus what is there now. I realize that it probably won't give me noticeable improvement by itself, but quality components are quality components and I will have the rifle apart anyway.

On the bolt, you are right that I have no intention of replacing the bolt, just the handle. I will compare the SSS handle to the 10BA and see what's what. The good thing about the SSS handle is that I can get in stainless to match everything else.

As to the caliber, this is my main hunting rifle (and in fact was my first rifle ever!) so I like keeping the 30-06 due to availability of quality hunting ammo. At this point, I dont do a lot of bench shooting (other than practice) and I like the idea of being able to get off the shelf ammo if I am somewhere hunting and have an issue. The 30-06 is so widely available it helps when crap goes sideways and you are deep in hunting territories. I had it happen once, and having a hunting buddy shooting the same caliber saved the weekend hunt.

Any other suggestions or comments by all are appreciated!!! This is my first attempt to upgrade a rifle, so I will end up having a ton of questions.

That being said, if I decide to rebarrel at some point, then the door gets kicked wide open for a new caliber. Read some on the 280, 284, and of course the 6.5.

Well thought out. If you go the Boyds route you should pillar and bed right then and there. For around 10 dollars or less it is easy. If you need anything I may be close if you are south of east.

Everything looks good, but as Robinhood noted you don't really need to spend the money on a bolt head or barrel nut. Personally I would upgrade to the thicker precision recoil lug and hand-hone the face of the barrel nut as Robinhood outlined above.

If you go with the Boyds stock you will definitely want to glass bed it as they're a little looser fit than the factory wood stocks as far as the inlet goes. Not horrible by any means, but worth noting. I have an Axis in a boyds stock that I haven't bedded yet and it shoots plenty good, but there is some fore/aft movement of the barreled action in the stock with the action screws just slightly loosened. Bedding it will eliminate that to assure it can never shift in the stock at all.

The tactical bolt handle is a personal preference thing, but on a hunting rifle - especially a sporter barreled hunting rifle, I don't like them as they stick out and hang down way too far for my liking. Better ways to lighten the bolt lift effort if that's what you're trying to resolve (bolt lift kit, polishing ramps, T&T job).

I goofed up earlier and said polish the lug, I meant the nut. Also in phase II sending it to Fred for a T&T job is a great Idea.

I understand better what you guys are saying and agree - replace lug and work on the nut.

On the bolt handle, was going to do that for looks - been shooting this for 6 years now and never had issue with bolt operation, so dont need to lighten it at all.

Saves money all the way around so thanks for the suggestions!!

Great plan and great advice.
One thing to think about is do you really want a thumbhole stock? I actually have two, the one shown and a nutmeg one with a short heavy barrel 6.5 creed. I've pillared & bedded both and they shoot real well. Shot a mule deer buck in WY at 325 yards across a canyon with the "blue" one when it was a Shaw barrel in 257 Roberts A.I. that I chambered. Now I rebarreled it with a Savage 260 that I set back & chambered to 6.5 CM. Now both Boyd's are shooting great wearing Creedmoors.
Now for the problem...the tang mounted safety of the Savage is awkward at best in a hunting situation. Your right hand must leave the grip completely to operate the safety. May not be a problem but tight quarter hunting or when quick decisions are made a conventional stock may be a better choice.
My .02
Attachment 6393
I just noticed the barrel it is wearing in this picture happens to be a m16 stainless weather warrior in 260. That barrel is now on one of my grandsons deer rifle in Wisconsin....
My how these Savage barrels come & go so quickly around here!,��

mnbogboy - interesting point on the safety, and not one I had considered. Have to think about that because I typically don't release the safety until right before I shoot. I wonder if the new At-One stock by Boyd's would be better?

My original choice to go thumbhole stock is for the pistol grip versus traditional hunting stock grip. I never had an issue with it in the past, but once I started hog hunting with an AR15, the pistol grip grew on me.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by txrob5150

mnbogboy - interesting point on the safety, and not one I had considered. Have to think about that because I typically don't release the safety until right before I shoot. I wonder if the new At-One stock by Boyd's would be better?

My original choice to go thumbhole stock is for the pistol grip versus traditional hunting stock grip. I never had an issue with it in the past, but once I started hog hunting with an AR15, the pistol grip grew on me.

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Thinking on a Remington the thumbhole would work great, but at least for me on the Savage it is extra movement, time and could disturb your sight picture also.
I do love shooting both of mine though.

When you get to Phase 2 and new barrel, Bartlein can match the sporter profile plus do crown and chamber. I had the 116 30.06 and went full Monty before firing it with all items mentioned in above posts. I suppose Savage pre fit suppliers match profiles too.