New Receiver Scope Hole Crud

Thought this would be fun to show as there are constant threads about scope mount screws not going in far enough, don't seat...whatever.

This is my last brand new 12FV that is going to get rebuilt. I pulled the barrel yesterday and thought it would be fun to chase all the threads while I had it apart. Here is what the tap pushed out from the hole that ends up blocked by the barrel threads. Lots of metal shavings and receiver paint crud. The other holes had more paint with less metal...but all were a mess. I should have taken a picture of the barrel threads as well...tons of crud that were making it real hard to get the barrel nut off. It's amazing how far the blasting media gets into the crevices.

Attachment 6102

Yep, I do the same thing for the same reason, and I remove the ridge of metal on the outside of the knurling on the face of the receiver so the recoil lug fits flush.

I also blend the sharp corners of the lug abutments that'll smack a 223 case upon ejection and leave a dent.

You've probably got some good tips on clean up, too. Care to share your 12FV rework tips for the rest of us?

That looks JUST like my action I just did the exact same thing to about a week ago. I did not take any picture though.
http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...56-rifle-build
Post number 8 is where I talk about it a little. I too could not believe the amount of crud and blasting media hiding in there and under the barrel nut.

I have to admit that I really don't have any good tips but here is what I do:

1. Clean up the receiver threads with a steel brush and wipe out all the factory lube. Lightly lube with tetra grease.
2. Check the firing pin protrusion and set to .035"...it's usually a bit longer from the factory.
3. Set trigger spring tension to minimum. Cut down the safety blade spring to just where it's holding the blade out.
4. Chase scope mounting holes with tap.
5. Change action screws to grade 8 cap bolts.

Your steps have me thinking about what a basic DIYer could do. It might be cool to write up all the steps and take pics of things that someone with simple hand tools, a dremel, and some sandpaper could pull off to help accurize.

If you use one of these in red or green on the face of your action and barrel nut, you would be surprised at what you find. Keep the pressure in the center of the piece you are honing. It is a 4" long x .875" wide fine diamond hone sold by DMT. It also works if you have an action with beat up or rough raceways. It will really smooth out a rough bolt slide.

https://proxy.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=h...1480836269&f=1

After reading this post, I ordered some 6-48 and 8-40 taps. I had three actions taken apart just lying around on the bench and used the taps to chase the scope base screw holes in the receiver. I was totally amazed on how much crud came out. No wonder I had problems in the past with scope base screws going in. I highly recommend this to everyone!!! I will do this on every action in the future. Thanks for the great post. Savageshooters is so wonderfully helpful!!! Good job guys!

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Originally Posted by Texas10

I also blend the sharp corners of the lug abutments that'll smack a 223 case upon ejection and leave a dent.

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Hey Texas10, could you educate me a little further on this or post a pic of the area that you are talking about? I'm putting a Savage 10 .223 together soon and would like to do this because I HATE those dents in my .223 brass. Thanks, Scott

Quote:

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Originally Posted by scootergisme

Hey Texas10, could you educate me a little further on this or post a pic of the area that you are talking about? I'm putting a Savage 10 .223 together soon and would like to do this because I HATE those dents in my .223 brass. Thanks, Scott

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Scooter, as you extract a short case like a 223, it will get pushed over hard to the ejection side of the action often hitting the lug abutments at a steep angle causing dents on the case. If the edges of the abutments are sharp they cut into the brass. This is especially true if the ejector spring is powerful.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by celltech

It might be cool to write up all the steps and take pics of things that someone with simple hand tools, a dremel, and some sandpaper could pull off to help accurize.

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celltech, please do this. PLEASE!!!

RH described the process very well, and as you're looking into the action from the front (where the barrel screws in) you'll see the two bolt abutments. The lower left front corner of the top bolt abutment is the one that causes the damage. Blend the sharp corner to a soft round corner and apply some cold bluing or corrosion control oil to the bare metal.

You can also lap the bolt lugs by applying some fine lapping compound to the abutments, install the bolt and work it by opening and closing while pulling back. Some consider this to be un-necessary because the Savage bolt head floats, but I've looked at wear patterns on my well used actions and noticed that the abutments don't wear evenly, so I lap them now. YMMV.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Robinhood

If you use one of these in red or green on the face of your action and barrel nut, you would be surprised at what you find. Keep the pressure in the center of the piece you are honing. It is a 4" long x .875" wide fine diamond hone sold by DMT. It also works if you have an action with beat up or rough raceways. It will really smooth out a rough bolt slide.

https://proxy.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=h...1480836269&f=1

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Does this fit into the raceways and where do I find one? Been looking for something like this for years. The one I have won't fit.

https://www.dmtonlinestore.com/4-Dia...ne-P41C11.aspx

Quote:

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Originally Posted by scootergisme

celltech, please do this. PLEASE!!!

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I will be putting something together...I ordered the DMT hone and have time to play until my barrel gets here.

Thank you Robinhood and Texas10!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Texas10

Does this fit into the raceways and where do I find one? Been looking for something like this for years. The one I have won't fit.

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Yes with a little room to spare. I press down from the ejection port. then flip it over and go through the feed port. I work on the area that the cocking pin rides on and then if there are high spots on the bottom rail between the ejection and loading ports it is often rough from old tooling.

I use Kroil as a vehicle but I was chastised one time because the manufacturer recommends water. Unless I am preparing for coatings water generally stays away from the metal parts.