Printable View
I am new here, Any one use a Muzzle Brake for a .22lr? Any good ones? Well just any help please. I want to get my barrel set up with
1/2 x 28 Cut but if the Muzzle Brakes are a waist of time then why cut the Barrel. I want to start shooting .22lr Bench rest. Thanks DT
I have the FV-SR version from Dip inc. They have other versions as well.
I use it when not running quiet and have had good results. It stops the slight muzzle jump and makes what little recoil impulse there is, straight back.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T337A using Tapatalk
How much jump/rise are you getting now? Do you currently loose your sight picture when you fire the rifle? For a 22LR pistol, I can see the point in one. For a heavy rifle though I have to wonder if it would make much difference.
You don't mention the model you have or what type of RF BR, but for BR, I would look at a tuner if allowed in the class you want to compete in. Harrell's precision makes well regarded tuners for RF, and they do have RF brakes as well on their website.
Zero with and enough without to change poi to about 1/4 inch high at 50 yards. My rifle is a touch over 10 pounds.Quote:
Originally Posted by Frontier Gear
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T337A using Tapatalk
Sounds like it is worth it then. DIP inc makes some good stuff.
Typically muzzle brakes on rimfires don't do much for recoil reduction... as if you really need it. One thing they will do is change harmonics, and rimfires are very finicky about harmonics. I've seen tack driving guns go absolutely crazy once a brake was installed. There seems to be no hard and fast rules dictating what one will do, until you actually install it and shoot it. Sometimes it makes no difference, sometimes it will shoot better. The thing is, as a solid piece, it's not adjustable. A tuner however, will give you the advantage of tuning your barrel to the ammo.
Back in the 90's, when Browning came out with the BOSS system, they touted it as tunable muzzle brake. Well, the muzzle brake part sucked, as it only reduced recoil about 15% and amplified the noise to obnoxious levels. But the tuner part worked very well. They offered a non vented body to replace the brake section, just for tuning. Most shooters couldn't tell the difference in recoil, but they could in noise.
A suppressor is a great addition to a .22LR. Check out PTP Tactical (no affiliation).Quote:
Originally Posted by dynotime
TandemKross is perhaps the most popular. MaddMacs has by far the most variety and I think best indexing method. Volquartsen now makes a Forward Blow Comp. I'd recommend MaddMacs. They will also custom make a comp for you.
I don't use comps anymore. Only shoot suppressed now.
FV-SR YHM Wraith
https://i.imgur.com/l5kwvCh.jpg
MarkIII Silencerco Sparrow
https://i.imgur.com/2KRTKMn.jpg
For a brake to be effective there has to be sufficient gas volume and pressure for the brake to vent off-axis from the bore. Rimfire cartridges just don't have the gas volume or pressure available to make a brake a useful addition. As sharpshooter noted, it's only real affect will be on the harmonics of your barrel and that's always a crapshoot. Jester's noted 1/4" change in POI at 50 yards probably has more to do with the weight hanging off the end of the barrel than it does any actual reduction in recoil.