You can view the page at http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...dle-Comparison
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You can view the page at http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...dle-Comparison
Very informative Jim, thanks for posting it.
Thanks for the info Jim...it made me order a cheap tactical handle to play around with. I would also point out the Axis handles are !@#$. The ends are way to tiny and I cut/threaded all of mine for bigger and longer knobs. Plus I have to grind relief cuts in them for low mounted scopes.
Yeah, the Axis bolt handles have been a joke from the get-go. Savage really needs to come up with a new design for them that allows adequate scope clearance. Best solution is to grind down the top of the bolt handle where the three recessed pockets are until it's flat - gains you about 1/8" or so clearance.
Jim, thank you for the info.
Thanks for the article Jim. How were your measurements taken if I may ask. Centerline of bolt to edge?
Centerline of the hex in the BAS to the furthest point out on the bolt knob.
New to the site, learning what I can about my 110, thanks, good read.
this is a great site, thank you for this information, I am new here and I have a 110 CL that is really nasty at the top of the lift but also when you push the bolt forward and start to close it. It is very difficult to start the downward movement but once it has rotated about a third of the way it becomes super easy. I don't think this is the same issue as discussed, anyone have any suggestions? Is there some place where I can get a good description of how to time the pin? Just so I can understand what is happening. Thanks.
Good article. Thanks. I have a new 110 Storm-just starting out with it. The bolt has been a bit of a concern, but need some more time with it to see if I want to replace it.
Outstanding article
Just started working with a 110E from 1982.
I would rather buy a handle than a bolt assembly, but great to know this is common issue. My bolt is also loose in the action and handle hits my scope. Disappointed but hey seems to be adequate options.
Try taking the rear baffle off and repeating the test. If the issue goes away, it's a primary extraction vs bolt lock up issue cured by grinding a little off the extraction ramp on the rear baffle OR the bolt handle. To visually see this problem, look very closely at the rear baffle where it contacts the back of the action while cycling the bolt. Try putting a .005 shim between the baffle and body and see if the issue worsens. Note the engagement of the two extractions ramps as they interact with each other.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigfoot
I bought an very nice SS small shank action for a great price because it was not cycling smoothly. Took me only a few minutes with a grinder to polish off a little of the ramp and that fixed it.
J.Baker in your article the pictures show a sss tactical bolt handle that looks left handed. But when I go to sharp shooters supply they only have right handed. Is that a left handed bolt handle in sss tactical?
It is, but I don't think Fred's offering them anymore because he has to start with a factory bolt handle and more often than not when turning down the factory knob he'd find a lot of porosity making the part unusable. His RH bolt handles are investment cast as he could justify the cost of the mold due to the much higher demand for them.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1mechanic
After grinding the handle down to accomodate a low mounted scope, what should be used to treat the bare surface metal and turn it black please?
Flat black spray-paint always worked for me, and it's easy to touch up if needed.
Answered a lot of questions I had about bolts. Thank you!
I just bought a 110 ultralite.Shoots very well. I would like to know why the bolt is not exactly a slick throw like a Remington/Winchester? Does not seem like there is much bolt riding on the rails, feels a bit cheap. And removing and installing it is a PITA compared to any other bolt gun I have touched. Are there much improved replacement complete bolts?