Looking for thoughts on Pic Rail for 110BA Stealth in 300WM

I picked up a BA Stealth long action in 300WM. It came w the long pic rail that drops and extends several inches over the bbl...I guess for hi speed night vision or whatever that I'll never use. I don't like the look of it plus I want to add a 20moa canted rail anyway.

So I have three options, but I'm poor and cheap and frugal and over analyze everything. And I'm looking for thoughts so i can learn from all the expert knowledge around here.

Option #1 - EGW 6061 not hard coated: since this is a 300wm, I'm thinking this is a nogo but I like it bc it's cheap and has a 20moa cant. I'd have to drill holes out for #8 screws. I think it's around $40 ish.


Option #2 - EGW HD Stealth 7075 hard coated: this is about $70 but is more appropriate material and coating for recoil of win mag. Plus these are already drilled to accept #8 on the stealth actions.

Option #3 - all steel pic rail w 20moa cant: problem w these are they are around $120 and I'm extremely cheap. Plus I'd hafta drill out the holes but that's not a big deal. Obviously, this would provide the best performance, and I don't care a lick about weight difference of a steel pic rail.

Conclusion: my ultimate goal is to stretch this out to 1k yard for some local f class style competitions (not PRS or whatever) after I spend some time on load development and making this baby mine. Just friendly competition, not serious stuff. Importantly, in so doing, I plan to take advantage of the Stealth's 9.3" twist and shoot 225 and 230 grain pills, which will beat me and the pic rail up something good.

Therefore, seems like the steel base is the way I need to go regardless of cost. Either pay a little now and a lot later, or pay only "a lot" one time.

I think $120 pic rail is highway robbery, especially if I get it and any single rail is out of tolerance. But meh.

HOWEVER...

I'm curious as to any thoughts from anyone bc I want to learn more. And my bottomline question is: how durable is the 7075 hardcoat if we assume I do NOT dismount my scope very much.

Does anyone recommend a steel base other than the Werne? Is there a better steel option?

You don't need steel, nor the hard coat. Steel only adds weight, which is not a good thing when it's under recoil. The more weight you put in the scope and mount, the more stress the screws will endure. 6061 has plenty enough strength to handle that kind of recoil. Just remember when you drill them out, the countersink on the base should match the screw heads. I've seen a lot of bases that have a 90 degree countersinks, but came with 82 degree screws.

I agree that steel is not really necessary, however steel is the most robust...in a manner of speaking. That being said I have a number of aluminum rails and they all perform well. I can’t say that I’ve noticed any issues, however you might leave slight rings mounts from the clamping force of steel rings on aluminum.

For my last 4 rifles I got the Weaver 20 moa rail. It's extremely affordable, has a recoil lug, made in the USA. It's aluminum but after taking scopes on and off repeatably they don't even have a trace of wear. Still look like new.

I don't see many places have them but opticsplanet does. $33 and I would pay double, it's worth it.
58 reviews on opticsplanet... 5 gave it 4 out of 5 stars, 53 gave it 5 out of 5 stars.

https://www.opticsplanet.com/weaver-...T-EXTRMG-99494

Whoa I appreciate the response. Hearing from 3 folks also says a lot. I think I subconsciously wasn't buying into the whole "I need the most expensive chit" but consciously I (wrongly) thought I needed it in this instance ...bc I've been down that road before. So just wanna say thanks for talking me back from the edge of "I need the most expensive chit". Snipers hide is terrible about that (arfcom too).

But anyway, I full well imagine the recoil lug integrated into the rail is what makes the difference rather than the material...particularly if other folks aren't seeing damage on the mounting lines / actual rails. Those are the two pressure spots...the surface mating w the action and the surfaces mating w the rings (or integral rings).

I'll hafta take a look at the surface area of the recoil lug just cuz. I intend to bed the mount w some JB Weld. Was also thinking MAYBE some JB weld could possibly help get a better purchase area for the recoil lug....but that's prob completely unnecessary.

Btw, I ordered the weaver round back LA w 20moa cant. Thanks gentlemen!

Edit--I also wanted to point out that it seems the weaver brand rail is 6061 but is hard coated, while the EGW 6061 is anodized but not hard coated. I think this likely makes a big difference to the resiliency of the individual mountain lines/rails. As stated, the EGW 6061 is more expensive than the weaver 6061. The EGW 7075 is hard coated.

Just for anyone who might google this thread in future, the weaver pic rail w the recoil lug will NOT work with the savage 110BA Stealth.

The screw holes line up and of course the holes need be drilled out to #8 diameter buuut...

The stealth action doesn't have a gap that allows the recoil lug to rest against the front half of the receiver. Not sure I'm making sense but bottom line is the weaver pic rail w the recoil lug will not work on the savage stealth receive...at least not the long action version and I have to believe the short action version would have the same problem.

Probably explains why I always saw everyone w a savage stealth talking about getting the EGW pic rail.


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Hello, I have a Savage 110BA stealth in 300WM and I am looking to replace the rail/base. After some research, I cant seem to find a conclusive answer as to what rails fit??? My number one priority is to NOT have to do anything advanced. I have zero gunsmith experience so last thing I want to be doing is having this thing in a vice drilling holes. Any idea after your research efforts what base models will fit and screw in with no modifications needed??? Thank you!

Why do you want to replace what it came with?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dave Hoback

Why do you want to replace what it came with?

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Well, 3 reasons, I have read a few forums now with people who have had this rail continue to loosen up. They have said, and I dont know if this is true or not, that the gun was drilled with holes slightly too large allowing some wiggle room variations when tightening it down. Two, I dont like or plan on using the extended part of the rail that drops down and continues along the barrel (I think its made for night vision maybe?). Three. I leveled my scope, and I sighted it at 100 yards, and after several shots, I have no problems... not loosening, very accurate, no issues. But... if I take a straight edge and place it along the left and right side of the rail and follow that out to the end of the barrel, I swear it tilts toward the left. If I look with my naked eye, I can notice it. If I use the straight edge on both sides, the left is further away from the barrel than the right. So, either the rail piece that extends forward (eventhough I dont use it) is slightly warped in its manufacturing, or 2, there is really some play in the screw holes and it wasnt screwed perfectly straight. Now maybe the top part of the rail is perfect and it's just the piece that extends forward... or maybe it's all off by the slightest of margins and I simply compensated for it with the windage on the scope when I sighted it in... but either way... I dont like it.

FishinDVM,
A new rail may not fix any of the problems you have described. Before you buy a new rail and just to confirm your suspicions (warped rail) tape a string or fishing line behind the rear screw of the mount and pull it to the end of the barrel. This will tell you if the action is taped straight or not.
As far a screws taps that are oversized, a new rail won’t correct this either. I can think of a couple of “Bubba” fixes but I am hesitant to offer them as most are semi permanent and just a little embarrassing.
Anyway find out what your up against before you start spending money on parts you may not need.
As always I could be wrong!

The overhang is used if you shoot prone. Depending on your optics ring combination you may need that forward room to acquire proper eye relief. Having it hurts nothing. One of the reasons the rail comes loose is mentioned above by Sharpshooter. The screws have a different angle on the face than the countersink.

I would epoxy bed the rail using release agent on the action if you are concerned, snug the base down to suggested torque rating after you place the epoxied rail on the prepped action. While it is still wet clean around the edges with a cotton swab. With the final cleanup a swab with rubbing alcohol will get the last of the we stuff off. Let it set untouched until dry. This will reduce the flex and vibration that makes them loosen.

Some use blue Loctite or Fingernail polish to hold them but after mounting several dozens, I have never found the need.

Just a thought - Nightforce has a fair selection of pic rail scope mounts. Have you checked theirs out? FWIW, lg

Here is another thought, though not sure, of course, it will fit:

https://www.eabco.net/Xtreme-Hardcor...e_p_14674.html