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Recently removed a HS precision stock for painting and am having trouble tuning it. I have gone from 30-65 in/lbs on the two action screws and 20-40 in/lbs on trigger guard screw but can't seem to change my group size. Anyone know the original torque settings. Might be a good starting point
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Rear Trigger gaurd screw does not impact the action or accuracy that I am aware of. Did you get paint on the bedding block?
I was careful about taping so I don't think so but anything is possible. That's a medium no?
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Start lower around 20 inch/lbs's maybe. There is an article on the procedure. http://www.accurateshooter.com/techn...torque-tuning/
I can't make my group size change and in 3 shot groups, 2 shots cut each other and the 3rd is about an inch away. Don't know which shot is which number but will find out. That pattern has repeated several timesQuote:
Originally Posted by Higtoo
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Thank youQuote:
Originally Posted by Robinhood
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Torque the front screw first to about 35 in lbs
Then, as you begin to torque the rear screw (the front trigger guard screw), place your finger in the gap between the barrel and fore end of the stock. If you feel the barrel rise and the gap widen as you torque the rear screw, check for binding or interference with the stock, especially the rear tang area. You should be able to run a .005 shim or feeler gage between the rear tang and the stock. If you have paint buildup in that area, you will need to remove it.
Continue working it until you feel little or no rise in the barrel as you torque the rear screw. The aft most trigger guard screw is not involved. Don't torque it, just snug it.
Thank youQuote:
Originally Posted by Texas10
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Worked for me on my 12 VLP.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robinhood
I got a wheeler fat wrench but none of the bits fit the rear trigger guard screw. What size bit does it take? I know it’s not necessary to torque it but if you want to remove the stock?Quote:
Originally Posted by Higtoo
I can remove the stock without removing the rear trigger guard screw. If I want to remove the trigger guard(and or bottom metal) then I remove the screw.
RMKey
i noticed the same thing with my wheeler kit in fact I rounded one screw from slippage, my solution was to take one bolt to the auto part store and bought a hex socket of high quality and close fit. Then ordered two new action screws to replace the originals.
Sure wish I would have noticed that sooner, oh well..
Most if not all of newer Savage models have steel or aluminum pillars. They kind of defeat the purpose when they use plastic trigger guards. The front screw on some models use a soft plastic estucheon plate also. The plastic parts prevent the rifles from holding desired torque. They work loose at any torque (especially with harder recoil calibers).
If i dont have a steel or aluminum trigger guard to replace the plastic one, I bore the plastic out (5/16 dia) so that the rear action screw reaches the pillar. The rear trigger guard screw is sufficient to hold the guard on till the steel replacement arrives.
I do the same with the estucheon if it had one (the front screw may have to be shortened).
Sorry i missed the hs precision part.
Maybe my post might help someone else.
Randy