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I am looking to upgrade from the plastic stock on my mod 11 vt I am depating between a boyds laminate that I would have to bed or an accustock.
Is the bedding system on an accustock pretty good? or just marketing hype? I am looking for consistant accuracy and stiffness and I have never used an accustock or seen the inside of one in person.
Has anyone went from an accustock to something else and gained accuracy?
someone has to have an opinion on this, opinions are like @ holes... :p
Well let me be the a**hole to comment that I don't know a darn thing bout bedding... LOL... I'm scared I'll stick my action in the stock...
I done a couple of bedding jobs but I have never owned a Accustock rifle so I can't offer a comparison. I can say that a pillar bedded stock offers repeatability as one removes and reinstalls the action.
I've been watching this thread and hoping for some info myself.
My first two Savages were accustocks, .260 and .223, and they were both 1/2 MOA at 100yds or better. I later decided I wanted them on a Tacticool instead. They are now closer to .3 MOA at 100 yds after adding pillars and bedding. I have no way of knowing if the Tacticool made them better or if I am just a better shooter and hand loader than when I started.
Correction: my 260 was originally a Trophy Hunter. My second accustock was a 25-06. It shot better than 1/2 moa but I wanted a factory walnut stock of the American Classic style, so I bought one from Numrich and immediately pillared and bedded it so it now shoots 1/3 MOA or better as well. Again, I have no idea if the Accustock hindered me at all. I truly doubt it. Would I buy another? No, because I don't like synthetic stocks. I'd rather pillar and bed my own wood stocks. Are they good? I believe so.
Had an accustock .5moa . Dropped it in a chassis system and dropped it down to .25 moa on a good day but I really liked the accustock.
Personally, I'd go with the laminate then pillar and glass bed it. Boyd stock don't have pillars and they don't offer to install any either.
When placing an accustock action into a chassis system, is there a trick to tightening the action screws or do you just tighten them like any other rifle action?
No, there's no such thing as an Accustock Action.Quote:
Originally Posted by soreal03
Other than target actions, they are all the same. They are either short or long, stagger feed or center feed. Currently, they are all center feed.
Righty tighty...lefty loosey.Quote:
Originally Posted by soreal03
There's a screw loose right there.Quote:
Originally Posted by sharpshooter
Guess I should've clarified :( I was under the impression, when tightening an action to a regular accustock, there was a systematic way of doing so. "Not just righty tighty." Was only wondering if it was the same process when putting on a chassis like the 110 BA stock?
I know there was once a recommended procedure for installing the action to the original Accustocks. I don't believe the current Accustocks have a special procedure. I do not know about the 110 BA stock.
there is a specific torque sequence for tightening the action into the accu-stock. I have it written down at home and could type it on here if anyone is interested
I'd like to see that. The instructions in the FAQ section here refers to the original Accustocks, not the current models.Quote:
Originally Posted by jkingen
This is how i do it.
Finger tighten both screws.
Then have the rifle point up with the butt on the ground. While pushing down on the barrel, tighten front screw to about 20in pounds, then the back one.
Then tighten the front to about 40 in/lbs then again the back one to the same.
John ill give you my two cents on what id do. I have never bedded a rifle but I do intend on trying this someday. Anyways, I would look into the B&C medalist classic style stock. Check out stockys stocks website. It has an aluminum bedding block in it which is VERY similar to the accustock. It costs about 250$. Most likely it will shoot great as is (the rifle will drop right in it but I would check to make sure the barrel is free floated. You may also want to check to see if the tang remains free floated.) but you can also bed it with some bedding if you feel the need. I recently took my brother's savage 110 7mm rem mag rebarreled with criterion barrel and B&C medalist stock and it is shooting .5MOA consistently. I just floated the tang myself which was easy and will report back if accuracy improves or not. Will it shoot better with an additional epoxy bedding job...probably. Do I need it to, no. If I start shooting past 600 yards I may have it bedded.Quote:
Originally Posted by john800
I am trying to imagine pushing down on the barrel and applying torque to the screws, won't it will pull the action to where it wants, and pushing down will probably yield NO value ??Quote:
Originally Posted by mikgarus
There should be some space/play on the inside of the pillars. Pushing the barreled action back towards the butt end makes sure the recoil lug is snug against it's stop. Then tighten the action screws. Otherwise, there is a small chance it's just kind of floating there with nothing but the action screws' "pull" holding it in place. Anyhow, that's why I do what Mik says. It might not help, might not be necessary, but it's just as easy to do that way as not.
Most folks will start the action screws and then hold the rifle vertically, muzzle up and let it drop to the the floor etc. a little to "seat" the lug before tightening up the screws. Theoretically if you have a well bedded action/lug this is unnecessary but that has never stopped us from doing a million other things that are equally unnecessary and this is no different.
I would recommend that you pillar bed a Boyds or other stock over using an AccuStock for a couple of reasons:
The AccuStock is ok, it isn't awesome but it isn't terrible either. Boyds (and others) on the other hand offer a number of stocks and a number of features that may be better suited for what you're after.
Pillar bedding a stock is not that difficult. There is a ton of good information on this site and others on how to do it well and with very little time/effort/expense you can have a stock that is ideally suited and mated to your needs/action/platform.
A factory offering will always be that- something that came off an assembly line. There is a lot to be said for that simplicity but for even a semi-custom build the investment in an aftermarket stock and the steps to pillar bed it are minimal considering the return.
This is something I found at some point written by Chris Bezzina of Savage Arms:
"Proper Adjustment of The Accustock
there is a specific technique for assembling the action into the AccuStock, and it needs to be strictly adhered to as follows:
1. Ensure that the recoil lug "wedge" screw is backed out to the point where the wedge has sufficient vertical movement to allow the recoil lug to seat against the bottom of the aluminum rail.
2. With the action inserted into the stock, justify the action toward the rear of the stock to allow the recoil lug on the action to be seated against the boss on the aluminum rail.
3. Tighten the forward most screw to 10 in.-lbs. to seat the action against the aluminum rail boss, then back out one-half turn.
4. Tighten the middle action screw to 10 in.-lbs.
5. Tighten the rear action screw to 10 in.-lbs.
6. Tighten the forward action screw to 10 in.-lbs.
Repeat steps four through six and increase torque value in increments up to a final torque value of 40 to 45 in.-lbs.
note: It is extremely important to tighten per the insructions above because when you are tightening the action down into the AccuStock you are spreading aluminum side rails and evenly moving the action down onto the base of the rail, ensuring positive engagement."
Yeah, I don't know how this applies with current production Accustocks that do not have the "Wedge" or "Wedge-screw." Maybe someone who knows more about these can chime in?Quote:
Originally Posted by jkingen
I have a Predator Hunter 6.5x284, which sits in an Accustock, and I can tell you if you take the action out of the stock and then put it back it probably will not shoot to the same POI. I had it shooting 5 rounds (130 gr Bergers w/ Re 22) through roughly the same hole at 100. As an experiment, I took it out of the stock and put it back with what I knew to be a different (actually more) torque on the front screw. The rifle would do no better than 2" at 100. Since I always stipple matching marks on my stocks beside the action screws before removing any action from its stock, I simply turned the front action screw to the designated mark, and, voila, she went back to shootin' teeny-weeny groups. I have a Remy 700 Tactical 308 in a B&C M40 stock that's not nearly as finnicky as the Accustock. But as long as I know what to do, so what? Generally, you can tighten the rear screw to the spec torque, take a few rounds to the range, shoot while tweeking (notice I said tweeking - not twerking) the front screw until the groups start to tighten up. Not real scientific, but, hey, it works.Quote:
Originally Posted by foxx
Here is my take...accustock or any stock with aluminum bedding block will be much better than a regular synthetic stock...so much so that further bedding may not be needed. I have two bell and carlson stocks which are basically the same as a accustock, one shoots one ragged hole at 100 yards the other holds right around 1MOA. The one that holds 1MOA is a Remington 700 which the barrel could be the culprit not the stock. 1MOA is plenty accurate out to 400 yards but I want this rifle to shoot under 1 moa out to 600 yards so I'm going to try skim bedding it which sometimes helps with an aluminum bedding block. If this doesn't work then it is most likely the barrel. These are with handloads.
Any stock that is fully bedded with pillars will be better than these stocks with aluminum bedding blocks so if you want ultimate perfection you will want to go the laminate route but it definitely requires a good amount of work. Unless you are striving past 500 yards you will be fine with a the accustock. You never know the Accustock could get you even further but no guarentees.