Frustrated with disassembly

I have a friend who is not mechanically inclined and doesn't know much about firearms. He just bought the new Model 11 Trophy Hunter XP Youth Muddy Girl in .243 for his daughter. I mount and bore sight scopes on his firearms for him and had to order an extended front base for his daughter to be able to have the proper eye relief. Since I was taking the rifle home with me I agreed to disassemble and clean the rifle.

When I went to take the bolt apart I couldn't get the Bolt assembly screw loose. I even put wrapped the bolt handle in leather and put it in a vise and it wouldn't budge. The YouTube videos say it can be difficult the first time but not impossible. I don't want to put any more torque on the handle for fear I will break it. Do any of you have a solution as to how I can get the assembly screw loose?

My other issue is that I broke the trigger guard. The instruction manual says to take out two screws when removing the stock but neglects to mention there is a screw under the bolt release. They mention it in another section. Not knowing that there was a third screw I applied too much force and broke the guard, which in my opinion is incredibly flimsy. When I call Savage on Tuesday what kind of response am I likely to get? Will they replace the trigger guard or will I have to purchase one? I think Savage is my only option right now for another trigger guard b/c all of the online stores are sold out of them that I could find. I couldn't find the plastic or metal guards.

Is it even worth mentioning to them the issue with the bolt since they obviously don't want you to mess with it because disassembly instructions are not in the manual? I have completely disassembled a bunch of firearms and never had issues like this before. The broken trigger guard is a little bit on me because if I had looked at a schematic I would have noticed the third screw but I also believe they should replace it at no charge because the instruction manual doesn't mention the third screw in the instructions on taking the stock off.

From the manual:
"REMOVING THE STOCK BE SURE THE BOLT IS OPEN AND THERE IS NO LIVE AMMUNITION IN EITHER THE
CHAMBER OR MAGAZINE.
THE ONLY TIME YOU CAN BE ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN THAT A GUN CANNOT FIRE IS WHEN
THE ACTION IS OPEN AND IT IS COMPLETELY EMPTY OF AMMUNITION.
THERE IS NO REASON TO REMOVE THE MAGAZINE ASSEMBLY FROM THE STOCK.
PULLING ON THE ‘FEEDING LIPS’ OR SIDES OF THE MAGAZINE MAY DISTORT ITS OVERALL
SHAPE AND RESULT IN AMMUNITION NOT LOADING OR FEEDING RELIABLY.
1. Turn the firearm upside down, with the muzzle pointed away from you.
2. Using a 5/32” Allen wrench, loosen and remove the two screws securing the stock. FIGURE 9
is for a TOP LOAD or DETACHABLE BOX MAGAZINE and FIGURE 10 shows the HINGED
FLOOR PLATE
3. Remove the stock."

My guess is they will replace the trigger guard. I can send you one if they don't.

For the life of me I cannot figure why the Bolt Assembly Screw is so tight. I have removed over a dozen with no issue yet. Can't imagine breaking the bolt handle, either. Stand on the dang thing and push the wrench down with your other foot. If that doesn't do it, I don't know what will, but don't be afraid of it. It is a simple screw, there's nothing inside there that could be "hung-up" or anything like that.

Let me know if you need a guard.

I did stand on it and use my feet. If it was an older model with a slotted screw head instead of an Allan it would have torn the head up.

Thanks for the offer, if Savage doesn't come through on Tuesday I'll take you up on it.

So did it break-free or are you still struggling with it?

Also, I should clarify: I have the trigger guard, but not the slide/button and spring or the metal part. As I remember, the guard is a little rough on some inside surfaces where the slide goes. If they have a new one, and they don't charge much, I'd buy it if I were you otherwise this one might hang up a little. I know I replaced it for some reason.

Also, I bent that metal thing and really jacked it up once. I was able to fix it by putting it in a vice and also by bending it with pliers. I use it still with no problem, so it can be done.

I have all the bolt release stuff if that is what you are talking about.

Right after I read your first post I tried again with my feet. I decided not to worry about breaking it and gave it everything I had. It finally popped loose with a crack that was so loud my son heard it from the other end of the house and came to see what was wrong.

I disassembled the bolt and then got on the Savage website part finder. Put in the serial number and it popped up the schematic and the date the rifle was made. Some of the parts were different. The schematic shows one spring and this one has two. I thought maybe the spring had broken but on close examination there are two firing pin springs that bump up against each other. The firing pin in the schematic looks like it is two piece but the one I have is one piece. It's weird.

[IMG]http://i1246.photobucket.com/albums/...ssembly005.jpg[/IMG][IMG]http://i1246.photobucket.com/albums/...ssembly006.jpg[/IMG][IMG]http://i1246.photobucket.com/albums/...ssembly007.jpg[/IMG][IMG]http://i1246.photobucket.com/albums/...ssembly008.jpg[/IMG]

Same experience with my bolt from a model 11 Trophy Hunter XP. Had to stand on it with the handle against the floor to get it to break free. Same newer/simpler/different bolt internals as well.

Does the little washer go inside the bolt screw? It fell out and I didn't see where it came from.

Yep, just drop it inside and it rides on the end of the ground spring as a smooth bearing surface.

The small washer goes between the two firing pin springs.

So who is right? I can't find a diagram of this particular bolt assembly.

They both are. They're both saying the same thing, one just isn't as descriptive. It goes between the springs.

No ... sounds like I'm wrong. I put mine back together with the springs butting against each other and the washer last ... it works but may not be right/ideal.

Oooh, I thought you were saying between the springs on THAT ground surface of the rearmost spring. Sorry. Yeah, I'm 99% sure mine was in between the springs.

Evidently there are a few different bolt/firing pin setups in Savages, but I went through some disassembly vids on youtube and found 2 that have the same setup and yours (and mine). The washer was between the springs on both of them as well.

Ok thanks guys. I really appreciate it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by upSLIDEdown

...I went through some disassembly vids on youtube and found 2 that have the same setup and yours (and mine). The washer was between the springs on both of them as well.

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Cool, I'll pull mine apart and get that washer in the right spot!

Honestly, spacing is the same. Only purpose I can think of that it would serve is so the two tag end of the springs don't end up together. Then they could slip past each other and the spring assembly would shorten. But yeah, I'd get it in there right. Doesn't take 2 minutes.

While you have your bolt apart, polish and smooth the ends of the springs so they are mirror smooth and have no sharp edges or burrs which can cause them to bind against the BAS or the Washer between the springs, or the firing pin.

That's a good idea. The fat ends on the longer spring are pretty rough.