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Just my version of a bolt lift mod. I've fitted this to both my Savage 12 target actions. - If anyone in the UK wants one please PM me.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6..._boltlift5.jpghttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6..._boltlift3.jpghttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...h_boltlift.jpg
Just curious what metal did you use?
Is it hardened?
The reason I ask is I started using SS initially and ran into it being kind of soft and seemed to wear a little prematurely. I started using hardened steel on the pivot point and think I have resolved the wear issue.
Looks great, I was actaully considering having my machining make a few but he said hardened steel would be expensive, both to buy and machine.
Dolomite
Why not harden it after machining?
uj
Thats the way Jack - I made it out of silver steel and hardened it after machining, although I don't think a little ware and flatening of the tip would cause much of a problem compared with the original surface area and drag.Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Jack
That little piece with the point is what is making the bolt lift easier? How?
The idea (not my original idea) is to reduce the contact area between the bolt assemble screw and cocking piece sleeve, this results in less friction between the two and makes for smoother/lighter bolt operation. Not a magic bullet but every little helps.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lefty Savage
Reduces the surface area. Normally the BAS (big bolt) rides on the outer edge of the cocking sleeve (the tube looking piece). This creates a lot of drag. When you basicallt elevate the BAS off of the cocking sleeve with the small pin pointed area it reduces the ammount of drag.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lefty Savage
Hope this makes sense,
Dolomite
I'm still trying to find out if it is necessary to make any other modifications to the sleeve, ie. shortening the sleeve to make up for the insert and will it require any other adjustments as to trigger or safety? ??? Kind of feel like dumb questions but everything works so good now I don"t want to get boogered up just for tinkering. Thanks for any replies. Quick
Quickshot, instead of shortening the sleeve is it possible to shorten the surface hex head screw that holds everything together?
I shortened all my screw's, less chance of them cracking in half. ;)
Kevin Cram has a fixture to turn the (BAS) Bolt handle hex head screw down on a lathe instead of grinding on it. I think he turns mine down .110-.112"s when I use the Stockade Lift kits. I think he charges $5.00-10.00. Here's his info:
Montour County Rifles
216 Shultz Road
Danville, PA 17821
570-437-2010
I have a fix for having to grind down the BAS. As soon as I get them from the machinist I'll post some pictures. It is a easy fix everyone can do but I wanted a little more finished solution.
Dolomite
BAS is that short for bolt assembly screw? What are the dimensions of the little point plug, I'd like to make a couple for .308's
no machining, perfectly smooth hardened steel ball bearing in a range pick up 357 case with a dab of epoxy to hold it in place.
10 min labor. :)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...kingbutton.jpg
Yes Quick - I machine off about 1/8 inch off the face of the large bolt screw. I have made a jig to hold the screw in the lathe so its not much of a problem - If you wanted to do it by hand I think you could do a reasonable job with a piece of timber and a vice, hacksaw and file like so:Quote:
Originally Posted by Quickshot
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...PC/th_jig1.jpg
As Blue Avenger says - A .38 case and a ballbearing is the easy/cheap way, I just didn't have any ballbearings to hand and the .38 cases are a little sloppy fit.
Has anyone figured out a lift kit for the new bolt's
with the cocking indicator yet?.
Would Love to get or make one.
PM me, I think I can help you out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lefty Savage
Dolomite
You are going to let us know when you get that easy fix finished, right? ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by dolomite_supafly
Yep, I am just waiting on the parts to come back then I will send them out to a few people to test. After that I am not sure what the next step will be. I have a little bit of money in these but I will not charge if I do give them away to a few people. They aren't expensive to make it just takes some time for the machinist to get time to do them.Quote:
Originally Posted by snoog37
I am not doing this to make money. Just doing it for personal reasons and there are those on the board who are aware of those reasons. I will not get into it or bore you with details but suffice to say I do have a reason for doing this and it isn't making money.
Dolomite
PM Sent!!
Thanks Dolomite
You can harden any mild steel with a powder called Kasenite. Its a surface hardening operation that would be more than adequate for this purpose. Kasenite comes in a can, just follow directions. A Bernzomatic torch is needed.
El Lobo
How critical is the amount of material that needs to be removed from the BAS? I'm sure it needs to be exact.
What is the best method of taking and marking the measurements? (thickness of the lift kit, removed from the shoulder of the BAS)
I know the concept but just want to know how you guys are doing it.
Curt
Yes, sharp Shooters Supply has them. FYI also the inventor of the "Gunk button"/"Bolt lifter kit", (38 special brass and a ball bearing) that this thread is talking about.Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeH
Thanks 82Boy
I have been contact with Dolomite and he has something up his sleave.