Action screw torque

Any tips on torque specs or practices for a new Stevesn 200? I say new because there are some changes, trigger, recoil pad, and I'm not sure what else. I'm new to Savage/Steven products. Can use all the help I can get. My new 22-250 came in yesterday, and I got it cleaned up, and worked on the "not so bad" axis type trigger. Pretty good break, reasonably smooth, but pretty stout pull. Over all, for what it is,,it's not bad. Changed spring and a got the pull lighter, so I'll wait and see how it shoots,,,,whenever the bases and rings get here. Thanks for any input.... Gary

It's easy just tighten until it feels loose again, all kidding aside if you use Loctite, which you should, everything is good hand tight snug, except for those darn scope mount bases, tighten those till they cry uncle.

Tanks Dean

PS: cool avatar

Check with the base and ring manufacturer for the correct torque values. IIRC, Usually it's about 15 INCH pounds for rings, perhaps 20 for the crossbolts. Also make sure the screws to mount your bases don't protrude through the action and interfere or jam into the barrel threads. It is easy to shorten them with a file, grinder, or sander. Jm2c.

Thomae,what does IIRC mean?

If I recall correctly

Dean

Thanks for the replies. Hey jonbearman, I'm not up on all the internet language either. The scope mounts(bases and rings) are pretty standard, but I've found that different rifles like different torque settings on the action screws. Especially wood stocks with no pillars. I noticed the action screws out of the box were only "good n snug". I was surprised. A lot of the plastic stocks(with pillars) call for some pretty tight settings. Weatherby says 55 inch pounds on their accumark and fibermark stocks !!! That sounds way too tight to me, but, ?
As I was re-assembling, I held the stock so I feel it "snugging" up. I went up to 25 " lb and it still felt like the stock was drawing closer to the action. Seems to me that would leave the action "stressed", but I'm no expert by any means. I really like the rifle so far, it "points" very well, and is nice and light. The balance will be better after the scope is installed. So, I guess I'll "snug" the action scews, locktite'em, and see how it shoots. Thankful for folks willing to share their knowledge and experience.......Gary

I guess "as I recall" is AIR ? :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by scope eye

If I recall correctly

Dean

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This probably should be an edit, but thought it would get more notice as a reply.
Finally found some info on the savage website. Stevens of course is not listed specifically, but for the Edge it says 30 to 35 "lbs for "centerfire synthetic" stocks. What do think? Thanks.......Gary

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gwtx

Thanks for the replies. Hey jonbearman, I'm not up on all the internet language either. The scope mounts(bases and rings) are pretty standard, but I've found that different rifles like different torque settings on the action screws. Especially wood stocks with no pillars. I noticed the action screws out of the box were only "good n snug". I was surprised. A lot of the plastic stocks(with pillars) call for some pretty tight settings. Weatherby says 55 inch pounds on their accumark and fibermark stocks !!! That sounds way too tight to me, but, ?
As I was re-assembling, I held the stock so I feel it "snugging" up. I went up to 25 " lb and it still felt like the stock was drawing closer to the action. Seems to me that would leave the action "stressed", but I'm no expert by any means. I really like the rifle so far, it "points" very well, and is nice and light. The balance will be better after the scope is installed. So, I guess I'll "snug" the action scews, locktite'em, and see how it shoots. Thankful for folks willing to share their knowledge and experience.......Gary

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Not to many folks have access to a inch pound torque wrench, so that's where good and snug comes in.

Tanks Dean

scope eye, I was not making light of "snugging'em" up. I didn't always have a torque wrench, and snugged'em for years. I also stripped a few. I worked with a fellow who could run 1 1/2" pipe with channel locks, and it would take a 24" pipe wrench to tighten'em any further.
Thanks for your input. Gary

Quote:

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Originally Posted by scope eye

Not to many folks have access to a inch pound torque wrench, so that's where good and snug comes in.

Tanks Dean

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Hand tight is about 10 inch pounds
http://www.accurateshooter.com/techn...torque-tuning/ Go here for this info.

I use a Utica torque driver and torque the action screws to 25in/lbs on my Stevens 200

owning a torque wrench is something i never considered untill this past fall. fact is its only been rather recently theyve even been talked
about for the reasons here.
this past fall my son picked up a newly aquired gun at a pa gunsmith after having it rebarreled.
he also had a new vortex viper scope delivered directly to our pa camp. as i recall its a 6x25x55 side focus zero stop yadda yadda
we installed the scope with very good tactical rings and tightened the screws as we always do. tight enough so you feel the screws
will break if you tighten them more. we bore sighted the scope but found the windage wouldnt work properly. we called the dealer
the next day by cell phone. it was the first day of the pa bear season. that evening a factory rep call our camp
and discussed the problem. he told me right up front that all vortex scopes are checked before they are boxed. and for sure that scope worked properly. he then said he knew the problem. we had tightened the screws too tight. he asked that we loosen the screws while he was on the phone. and when we did the windage worked fine. he said 15 inch pounds of torque max on the ring screws. so i called the next day and bought a torque wrench. thats the only vortex scope we have and frankly ive tightened lots of others and not had that issue.
but ive had several guys i know well send nightforces back for parralex issues and were told the scope was fine. so be advised if you experience the problem.

I use 30"# on most action screws just to be consistent. Never had one come loose.

Thanks for the replies. I have read many threads on torqueing savage action screws. Most just say the same thing as the manual. "Tighten securely". But some of the successful competition shooters have a routine they follow for consistency. But they talk about the 3 screw actions, and not much about 2 screw like the stevens/10/110 etc. They tighten both screws "snug". Then they torque up the FRONT screw to 30"lb in steps of 5" at a time. Then they start shooting groups, and tightening the rear screw 5" after each group, looking for the sweet spot. I really can't afford all that ammo, even if I could find it. The "pillar" stocks that I have experience with, didn't really matter what the torque was, as long as they were torqued up evenly because they "bottomed" against the pillars. This stock does not seem to be doing that. Probably would have to be bedded to fix it.??? Gary

Wonder if putting a thin washer between the action and pillar would help.???

Yes, thin washers on top of the pillars can help when the pillars don't touch the action. I have hogged out around the pillars so that a 1/4" brass washer will fit on top. I thinned the washers to the correct thickness on sandpaper. Then I installed the action with the washers between the pillars & action & torqued down the screws to make the washers conform to the shape. I Epoxied the washers on top of the pillars. I put marker on the action, installed it, & "Demeled out where it touched the stock. This set the action up about 1/32", allowing a little more space for the Epoxy bedding. Worked well I thought. Good Luck :) ! ... Jim

for the "action screw" I have been going 30-35" lbs. never tried adjusting it up or down, seems to work for me.

with the washers on top of the pillars, I have tried the wave washers I got from Ace Hardware. they run around .022 thickness, but I didn't notice any difference I accuracy so I removed them.

Just wanted to chime in...

For years, I've always used my right-handed 5 digit torque wrench :rolleyes:, but

it was to keep parts from flying off so tighter was always better.

I read that article about torque tuning the receiver, and I'm doing my first barrel change now.

If your going for accuracy, like I am, there's no better way to keep track than using a torque wrench.

You can get a 1/4" drive - inch pound torque wrench from Harbor Freight for $10 on sale most of the time.

Yea, it's not lab calibrated, but it'll do.

Thanks. I bought a "fat wrench" a couple of years ago. I like the screwdriver type torque wrenches for working on guns. Probably saved some stripped screws for me, cause I always wanted to go just wee bit tighter. :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by fenucho

Just wanted to chime in...

For years, I've always used my right-handed 5 digit torque wrench :rolleyes:, but

it was to keep parts from flying off so tighter was always better.

I read that article about torque tuning the receiver, and I'm doing my first barrel change now.

If your going for accuracy, like I am, there's no better way to keep track than using a torque wrench.

You can get a 1/4" drive - inch pound torque wrench from Harbor Freight for $10 on sale most of the time.

Yea, it's not lab calibrated, but it'll do.

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Thanks for the replies. I'm breaking in the barrel now. At first I was getting a little anxious, but it's begining to "shoot in" now. After about 24 rounds(cleaning in between) it shot a 3 shot group of .542 at 60 yards. Nothing to brag about I guess, but that's a lot better that it strarted off. So windy around here, I'm shooting out of my barn at a stack of old tractor tires filled with dirt at 60 yards. That's the reason for the odd distance. Thanks again for the help, much appreciated..... Gary