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Anyone have any thoughts on a axis rifle versus a model 25 walking varmint rifle. Understand the mod 25 cost a bit more but already has a accur trigger and bases. From what I have read they both seem to shoot the same, trying to get the best for the buck!
Thanks
I have a model 25 and not too impressed with it so far. Mediocre accuracy, tendency to jam, hard to extract fired rounds. I sent mine back to Savage after nine rounds fired (.17 hornet)
The Axis comes with bases, fixing the trigger takes 5 minutes, and accuracy is there to spare -- at a substantially lower price.
Thanks, you make a good point. I think I will go with the axis. Guess I will have to learn how to fix the trigger,
Trigger mods are dead simple, and you can get a crisp, safe 2.5# trigger in literally minutes. I have done it on 4 rifles now, so I would be glad to descrbe the job -- but you will save time and get a clearer idea of how it goes if you Google "Axis trigger job". Look for the one using a 10-32 machine screw and the spring from a Pilot G2 pen. You can save the original spring so you can put it back if the rifle ever needs to go back for warranty repair. Have fun!Quote:
Originally Posted by Vt Rebel
Could you tell me the length of the 10-32 screw I would need to make the change. Look forward to making the adjustment and shooting the rifle. I'll let you know the results.
Thanks
1/2 " will do; if you want to use one a bit longer and file it down until it acts as a trigger stop, you can. My two didn't need that feature; the friend I did the other two for wanted it done that way. Be sure to seal the threads with blue Loc Tite or fingernail polish.
Thanks for the info, do you mean that a longer bolt will prevent over travel? If so, I would like to do that. Just ordered the rifle this am thru Gander Mtn. Will be at the store on Monday and that's gives me time to get my trigger parts. I plan to mount a Nikon 2.5 x 10 x 50 or 3 x 12 x 42 when the rifle arrives.
Thanks
If you do it right, yes; the new screw can limit overtravel. To tell the truth, though, none of the rifles I have converted had any appreciable overtravel, but my friend wanted absolutely none on his, and I found it no trouble to get things adjusted to suit him.
One other thing -- all had excessive side-to-side movement of the trigger within the trigger housing. Most descriptions of the mod say to use a thin brass washer between the trigger and housing to eliminate the slop. That would surely work, but I could not find any washers thin enough to work. So, I cut a small square from an expired credit card, sized to fit where it needed to go. I took the appropriately-sized drill bit and heated the shank for a moment with a lighter, then melted a perfect hole through the plastic "washer" body. Worked like a charm.
I think I will start with the 1/2 inch screw first and see what travel is left. Did you only shim one side of the trigger? Going shopping for all the parts on Thursday. I plan to do the trigger and camo the stock fist thing the mount the scope.
Thanks
Yes, just shimmed one side.
I saw another idea last night, several folks have used a 0.16 - 0.18 feeler gauge tip about 1/4 inch long to make a shim. Does the shim fit over the trigger pin and on top of the c clip? Guess I'll understand it better when the rifle arrives.
Thanks
The shim goes on the pin, inside the housing, between interior housing wall and trigger. That's where the slop is.
Just remember that since you need to pull the trigger to the rear (past the sear release point) to remove the bolt, if you reduce your over travel enough, you will not be able to insert/remove the bolt from your rifle in the field.Quote:
Originally Posted by pisgah
Certainly true, and as I said, none of the ones I have encountered yet really needed to have overtravel addressed IMO; but, shooters being individuals, my friend wanted his adjusted to bare minimum. This was accomplished, but it took a bit of file-and-try to get it minimized and still allow for bolt removal.Quote:
Originally Posted by thomae