Deciding which base to use- flat or 20MOA?

I want to go with a one piece base on my 110 build but not sure on which base. I suppose the deciding factor is distance I will be shooting- could be anything.
My old school teachings were always about holdover, and rarely about doping the scope. I have used the BDC adjustments on one ols scope I have that you could change yardage rings on the elevation and just dial in the yardage and hold dead on- and it worked awesome. Since I'm interested in doing some bench shooting, yardages will be say, 100-600, maybe 800 with the ranges I've found relatively close to me.
So, is a 20MOA base really needed? (6.5X47Lap) Is there a general range of a 1" scope where it is practical to use a flat base vs a 20MOA?
for a new guy I am able to pick up on a lot of the technical info here, a lot of it is terminology where things are called something different and I don't remember a lot of things, but I struggle with some of the basics that most assume you already know. Plus, shooting and the equipment has changed a lot from when I was more into it 20 years ago. For example, I still don't know what a F/TR gun is :) but the sun still comes up so I guess I'll be ok.

Hey Leonardo, first off how much elevation does your scope have? then we can go from there.

Tanks Dean

20 MOA if shooting over 350 yards

20 moa. Just make sure your scope has at least 50 moa total internal elevation adjustment. Or it will bottom out before your able to dial down for the close ranges 100-300 yds etc. Just throwing this out there since I've seen scopes with a total of internal adjustment in the 30 moa range.

hafejd30

I'd say flat unless you're going over 600 yards on a regular basis.

The trick is you do not want to bottom out your scope, what you want for good repeatability is 1/3 to 2/3 of the min and max, example if you have a scope with 60 min of elevation you want to be zeroed at 20 min and then if you need they extra 20min you will be at 40 min with 20 min left at both ends, if you keep it in that sweet spot it should always hold and return to zero, if that is not the case then get a 10 or 20 or even a 30 min base to find the sweet spot, I say this due to the fact that most scopes except for high end ones do not like to be bottomed out, they tend not to return true to what ever you set your zero at,

Tanks Dean

Specs of my scope- 8X32 20MOA internal adjustment. I noticed on the chart the lower the mag, higher the adjustment.

So scopeye- you would say i have 12-13MOA of quality adjustment?

WOW a whole 20 min, what model scope is it anyway I never heard of such limited range, if that's the case then that's not the scope for your application, either that or start loading insanely hot loads so you have minimal bullet drop, LOL

Tanks Dean

I have a 20moa on my 10fp. I have never had an issue shooting at 100, and no worries about being able to get out to 1000 when my skills improve.

At 1000ft above sea level with the 6.5x47L pushing a 140gr Berger VLD to 2900 and a 200yd zero you'd need 10 MOA to get you on at 600yds.

Since scopes function most effectively with the erector tube on the optical center of the scope I'd still recommend a zero cant rail UNLESS shooting regularly beyond 600yds.

Do you have mil dot or some sort of reference points on your reticle, if not 1000yds is a long way, and most scopes can always make it to 100yds after that it gets interesting.



PS LEN I would sight in at 200yds with a 20min rail and hold over or under, that will give you widest window for elevation.

Tanks Dean