Anyone ever pillar and glass bed a boyds varmit thumbhole and how big a deal was it. Is it that big of a deal to bore out the pillars if you have never done it?
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Anyone ever pillar and glass bed a boyds varmit thumbhole and how big a deal was it. Is it that big of a deal to bore out the pillars if you have never done it?
Drilling out the holes is no big deal on the one I did.
You can bed the pillars first then the action as a second step or all at one time.
Here's a pretty goon explanation of how http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html
He's not doing a Savage but concepts are same.
I put Pillars in my boyds thumbhole I have not glass bed it yet just cause it shoots so well Im not gonna mess with it . It want difficult putting them in just gotta get the nerve up and get out the drill
Getting up the nerve is just it . I don't want to buy a brand new stock and screw it up because I don't know what I'am doing.
There are many good threads and videos on the internet about pillars and bedding. The ones that make the most sense to me have you install the pillars first and then bed the action to the pillars.
Disclaimer: I have not actually installed any pillars or bedded an action yet. I plan to do it in the near future, but my knowlege, at present, comes from reading and talking to people, not from actual experience. I am not trying to come across as an expert.
I saw this technique somewhere else on the forum, but have searched for it and can't find it. So here it is in my own words.
Use standard lamp rod, with an outside diameter of 3/8" for your pillars
The original holes in the boyd stock (I'm talking about a rimfire stock) are nominally 1/4" diameter.
Purchase this 7 piece forstner bit set (part number #1903) from Harbor Freight.
The reason I suggest this specific drill set is that it is inexpensive, and more importantly, the 3/8" bit has a 1/4" shank.
Most forstner bits that I already owned or could find had 3/8" shanks.
Using a very small hand file or stone, sharpen the bottom edge of the 3/8" drill bit. Not the normal cutting edge, but the edge that would be closest to the drill when in the chuck. It may not need much sharpening as mine already had a reasonable edge.
Then, use the drill as a piloted drill by dropping it through the stock, chucking it in the drill, and then slowly pulling the bit through the stock while turning the drill in reverse, i.e., counterclockwise (or anti-clockwise for those forum members who are citizens of the Commonwealth ;) ).
By doing this, the 1/4" shaft keeps the drill bit straight and in line with the original 1/4" hole and the bit you sharpened widens the hole to 3/8".
Then the drill rod will screw in nicely, and when you have trimmed it to the length you want, simply put bedding compound on the threads, and screw it in and let it set. Some people cut a slot in one end so they can turn it with a screwdriver, but others use the weld seam inside and turn it with a bit or screwdriver that catches on that small internal protrusion.
Uh, oh. Just noticed a problem.
The above technique works well with a Boyd's rimfire stock. However, I just checked the Boyd's featherweight thumbhole centerfire stock I have and found a problem. The holes are greater than 1/4" in diameter. Hmmm...what to do.
Ok, here is my first thought on what I would do to keep the holes precisely centered:
I checked my collection of wood dowels. I have one that fits the holes exactly. It measures, with my calipers, .292 inches. I am not sure if it was purchased as a 1/4" dowel or what because I have no tag on it. So, I would take my stock to the hardware store and find a hardwood dowel that fits. Then I would chuck the end of the dowel in my mini lathe and bore a hole down the middle. I would cut off enough of the dowel to fit through the stock and glue it in the existing holes. Then, using the appropriate sized forstner bit, I would drill it out by hand using the existing hole that I pre-drilled down the center of the dowel as my guide hole to keep the bit straight.
If this sounds like a lot of work, perhaps it is, but it keeps me from having to purchase an $80.00 piloted drill bit. If you don't have a lathe, I am sure you could have a local machine shop do this, or even your local high school shop, if you asked nicely.
What could go wrong? I am looking at my Boyd's stock again and I notice that there are crossbolts that reinforce the stock right next to both action screw holes. (directly behind the forward action screw and directly in front of the rear action screw) I am not sure how close they are, but I would not want to hit metal cross bolts with my drill bit.
Question to those who already put pillars in their Boyd's Thumbholes, did you have any interference from the crossbolts?
This is simply me thinking aloud. If my ideas are helpful, go right ahead and use them. If you think they are problematic, then by all means please critique them so I can learn from you.
Sorry this is so long, but I got to thinking and typing and I guess I ought to stop now.
All the best.
The local gunsmith in your area can do this for you. This is your rifle and you want it done right. If your hesitant on taking the risk, take it to a local gunsmith.Quote:
Originally Posted by blackdog
FYI I've installed pillars in 2 different Boyds stocks a JRS Classic and a Thumbhole. I've also installed pillars in a Richards Microfit but I forget the style.
I use lamp-rod for my pillars as it is inexpensive and the threaded exterior makes for a good surface for the epoxy to fill in.
I typically drill the hole out about 1/8" larger diameter than my lamp-rod so I have a little wiggle room.
Go to a hardware store and buy some lamp-rod and practice by installing some pillars in a 2X4 to get a feel for how to get it done right.
The tricky part is the rear pillar on the rifle since it has to be relieved to clear the sear.
Here is a picture of the rear pillar in my JRS Classic.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y94...k/100_0538.jpg
I cut a notch that left the pillar about 1/4" proud and then used a Dremel tool on a flex shaft to round off the top of the pillar to prepare for bedding the action.
Im getting the nerve to start another build and try the whole lamp rod pillar bedding job on a boyds. I bedded my first rifle in a VLP stock with devcon and it turned out great! Luckly they have pillars already so it was just a bedding job.
Brian
Like I said practicing with lamp rod on a 2X4 is cheap and will build confidence. I've got a piece of scrap lumber somewhere in South West MO that you can mount a short action Savage to 3 different ways. Not sure where it is exactly as the tornado blew it away along with my shed.
As long as a savage rifle action wasnt mounted to it.....the tornado can have the 2x4. Consider urself the winner in that situation. Haha.
Brian
Yes sirQuote:
Originally Posted by airaddict
The technical article on the main site I wrote a few years ago about restocking my Savage rifle is available to paid members.
http://savageshooters.com/index.php?...%20My%20Savage
There are a number of other articles that are good reading there as well.
What size pillars do you put in? Is there enough clearence by those metal inserts in the stock?
I'm not advocating, but asking since I saw this somewhere else on the internet a few weeks ago.
It was argued that it is better to slightly cut the sear to make clearance room for the entire pillar. The argument was that with the top of the pillar cut off, it would induce more flex. Any sense to this? If I can find the link I will post it.
I don't see how it's going to flex any as the pillar if anything is getting compressed downward. It isn't taking any stress linearly if the action is bedded correctly the recoil lug takes the rearward force.
I talked to a guy at Boyd's today and he said the 9/16 pillars would be to large to fit in one of there thumb hole varmiter stocks. Has anyone put pillars in one of these stocks and what size were the pillars.u
My pillars are whatever size lamp rod is....I've never bothered to measure the size of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by blackdog
I just grab the drill bit that's slightly larger and drill out the hole. "Butter up" the pillar with some epoxy and put it in the hole...
What is lamprod made of? No problem drilling past that metal in the stock.
Lamp-Rod is steel. Buy it at your local hardware store in the lamp re-wiring area.
outside dia.of the lamprod that i have is approx. .385
inside is approx. .285
hope this helps
drybean
It is a nominal 3/8 in thread. I can't remember if it is coarse (16tpi) or fine (24tpi)
Is tapeing the action screws an ok way to center the pillars around the holes in the action? I was thinking about taping the tang with a few layers of tape to provide clearance and just bedding the whole thing. Has anyone tried this and would it work?
Thanks
I drilled out the screw holes and relieved the recoil lug. When I put the pillars down over the headless bolts into the stock I have some play side to side but none front to back. The bolts are centered in the pillars with electrical tape. Is this cool or should I relieve some more in the screw holes? Don't want to have anything binding.
I wrap them with tape as well to center them in the pillars. Try to keep epoxy out of the pillars.Quote:
Originally Posted by blackdog
Wanted to say thanks to everyone for the advice on this site. Just got done with my first bedding job and it turned out much better than I thought it would. Now I need to get out and see if it shoots any better.
Thanks
Your Welcome....Quote:
Originally Posted by blackdog
As your knowledge and experience grows be sure to pay it forward.
8) i love this site and all the people on it, you give me the confidence i need to start out on my own and try things i wouldn't normally. thank you knowledgeable people for sharing with us newbies to this stuff! it's very much appreciated!