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Good morning people!! Recently won a NIB 110 Long Range 280 Ackley. Not sure I want keep or spend the money scoping it. But if I was to decide to keep it, can I remove the muzzle brake? Or is it not meant to be?
Really the only thing I do not like about it. And the fact it is advertised with a 26 inch barrel and it is only 26 with the brake.
I’ve never heard of a “built in” break. And even permanently attached are threaded on and then silver soldered or blind pinned. Easy enough....give it a try removing it. You could also swap the barrel, and sell the one with break. Would likely sell quickly and for a few bucks.
Suggest you call Savage C.S. and ask what they use to secure their brakes.
Different materials require different methods of removal.
Rocksett, requires a hot water soak. You can heat the barrel until it melts and it won't release.
Loctite, requires heat.
You need to know what you're dealing with.
I’m not sure that is quite accurate, being that Chrome Moly steel has a melting point a little shy of 3000 deg. F, and Rocksett is claimed to hold up to 2000 degs. F. And I do know that legally, one may use a 14.5” AR15 barrel if the flash hider is “permanently” attached. The ONLY two methods which are supported under law other than welding, are blind pinning & silver solder brazing. No other thread locking compound is recognized. Silver soldering or (brazing) has always been the preferred method used by manufacturers for metal fusion.
Being a bit dramatic with "melting", Dave- as most readers aren't metallurgists.
2,000 degrees F is well above the temp that allotropic transformation occurs with iron alloys (at least the common ones; I'm no metallurgist, either)
Spot welding a pin produces a very tiny HAZ of no effect, and 1100 degree silver solder (BATFE requirement) obviously ain't in the realm of 2000 degrees.
Point I intended to make is, never heat steel to the point where it begins to glow even dull red without knowing what you're doing- and in the case of Rocksett (which is commonly used), heat isn't the way to remove it- so the OP should make a simple phone call to find out.
I’m baggin’ what you’re rakin’...I’m smellin’ what you’re steppin’ in...I am picking up what you’re putting down tobnpr. And I agree. I was citing law, and pointing out it’s likely Savage is NOT using anything like that. But you are correct, it’s an unknown. Problem is, I doubt he will be able to find out. The rank & file aren’t going to know details like that, and deciding factors aren’t likely to tell.
I am wondering if it is the brake that you can turn on or off. If it is a long range hunter, that is the type of brake that is on it. In that case all you have to do is use a screwdriver and stick it through the holes in the brake to loosen it. I personally like that type of brake since I can turn it on at the range and shut it off while hunting.... but to each their own.
THAT was my initial recommendation. I like getting my hands in and DOING! I always research things as much as I can, but sometimes ya just gotta give it a try.
I never know the IQ of the individual driving the rifle, so when I install 'em I use red loctite, absent specific, written instructions not to do so...
If you want the ability to remove/reinstall the brake with some frequency, you need a QD brake designed for it.
Particularly with fine threads, it's easy for someone "unknowing" of such things to stretch the threads beyond their yield point- then yer done...
The brake will no longer time correctly, and the threads will not hold as they should.
Best not to remove them more than absolutely necessary, and not over-torque when reinstalling. For simple cleaning, hang the rifle upside down with the muzzle end in a cup of your carbon solvent of choice.