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Hey guys. I saw a video on you tube last night, where a guy was showing the bolt dis-assembly on the Savage B17 & B22
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=28LkXjzrFgo
Can the B22 bolt be used in place of the older style bolt in my Mark ii BTV?
SEE: https://www.gunpartscorp.com/pub/products/992760.jpg
I love the rifle, I just wish the barrel, receiver and bolt were high gloss blued, and more like the CZ 455 bolt style. They're bomb proof, and extremely easy to take down.
I haven't compared them side by side, but my guess would be no. If they were, you would think Savage would put the new style in all the Mark I/II/93's they're building today just to eliminate the need to manufacture/source/inventory all the parts for the other one.
BTW, I think I know that guy in the video. His voice really sounds familiar.
I don't have to guess......they are completely different.
Thanks for the reply guys. I assumed the answer would be no.
Is there a step by step instruction list on this site, that shows the take down of this bolt, with images?
The only thing I could find was this: https://www.savageshooters.com/showthread.php?42818-Savage-MkII-Guide-Pin-Replacement but he doesn't actually show the step by step process, in vise etc.
I found another video here entitled: Savage mark 2 bolt disassembly:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fMHcPGtbrwo
This guy mentions that re-assembly is the same process in reverse, but doesn't show how. I wish he'd taken the extra minute to show HOW the nut is reinstalled with the spring on the guide rod etc.
My bolt works fine, but I sense a grittiness on the striker rod (if the bolt is manually de-cocked) and you pull the two halves away from each other, the engagement of the 2 pieces doesn't seem ultra smooth. I really love my BTV, it shoots lights out with bulk BYOB Federal ammo, but it seems like Savage really cheaped out on these bolts. WAY too many unnecessary parts, and not easily serviceable without a vice and an extra pair of hands.
I basically want to take mine down to the basic parts, clean the spring, internals, remove any grit, and polish everything, ultra smooth.
Don't own a Marl I/II/93R anymore so I can't help you with pics or anything. Honestly though, there's really no need to take down the bolt and if memory serves me it can be a real bear to get back together if you do. You would basically need a fixture to hole the two haves pulled apart while you unscrew the nut inside.
Besides, if it's shooting as good as you say it is the last thing you want to do is mess with it. I've seen far too many guys turn a great shooting rimfire into a lousy shooting one because they thought they could tweak something a little and make it better. Sometimes it's best to leave well enough alone until you have a good reason to tear into it.
I really like your bench top Jim. The T slots are a nice touch.
Thanks J.Baker. I don't want to take it apart, and you definitely need a vise, and another helper's set of hands. Savage says they weren't intended to be taken apart. The only reason I'm considering disassembly:
Sometimes, when I'm at the bench, when I chamber a round and cock the bolt, the rear most part of the bolt slides past the cocked position, and makes this "click" sound, where the bolt slides past the fire position, and slips into the already fired position. — Exactly like closing the bolt by gently squeezing the trigger so the firing pin isn't cocked when you put the rifle away.
It seems to depend on how I close the bolt. If I close the bolt forward, and then a deliberate DOWN motion, no problem. But, if I try to close the bolt with the back of my thumb, but pushing the bolt forward and down in a smooth simultaneous motion, it slips out of battery.
Have any of you experienced this?
SEE: https://ibin.co/4zkF1smy833D.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by J.Baker
You don't have a bolt problem........you have a trigger problem.
I wasn't sure what it was. It does feel like something "slips", and trips the bolt into the de-cocked position. But, there's never any primer strike when it happens. The primer face is intact.
And, it only happens if I close the bolt half-assed. Basically like pushing the bolt DOWN and FORWARD, like a 45 degree downward angle, then it trips. If I close it forward, then down, in 2 separate movements, as most people do, no problem.
Having said that, I did remove the accu-blade, and had a machinist I know (who's does some gun smith work as well) modify the trigger spring. It looks and behaves exactly the same as the factory trigger spring only shorter, with the pointed tip of the spring going UP into the tiny recessed spring capture hole above it. I stretched the spring a hair, just to keep some give in the trigger.
Maybe I've adjusted the trigger spring too light? But, the trigger feels absolutely amazing.
And there's your problem......