Do you have remove the scope base/rail when you change barrels every time ? I realize you would have to when the base goes over the nut.
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Do you have remove the scope base/rail when you change barrels every time ? I realize you would have to when the base goes over the nut.
Just the front base.
If you are using a barrel vise, no, as long as you can get to the nut the scope base can stay on. If you are using an NSS type action wrench then it has to come off every time.
I don't. For swaps post factory installed barrels I use a rear entry action wrench and a open ended spanner ( nut wrench)Quote:
Originally Posted by RP12
http://s9.tinypic.com/mbsmcg_th.jpg http://oi64.tinypic.com/bfh0s5.jpg http://oi63.tinypic.com/2qlal3c.jpg
I put'm back on with the same tools, the last two on the carpeted floor in my man cave. :p
Bill
+1 works for meQuote:
Originally Posted by BillPa
Have seen these tools listed being used BUT have not been able too rent or buy them, who sells them as am almost ready to change barrel on my 10 BA
I'm I wrong in thinking that tightening the barrel nut will try to pull the barrel away from the bolt face ?
^^^^If I understand your question....
Yes, it will try. Fortunately, though, trying ain't the same as doin'.
Can be done with front base on,BUT the front base screw needs to be short enough to clear barrel threads. If not short enough it will bugger up 3 or 4 threads.
Short, if scope base screw bottoms out on barrel the scope base was loose to begin with.
Where did you get the "rear entry" action wrench?
Yes, when you tighten the barrel nut you will pull the barrel forward and change the headspace. Use the go/nogo gage after you are all done. I use witness marks on the barrel and nut, that way I have a base line when I adjust.
Bill
^^^I don't get it. How is it possible that the barrel will actually move forward when tightening the barrel nut? The only way I see that happening is if the barrel spins with the nut. If the nut turns without the barrel, nothing changes accept there is pressure on the barrel threads driving it back as the nut is driving forward against the recoil lug and action.
Also, if the barrel spins with the nut, the nuts isn't tightening against the action. It's a JAM nut.
Sometimes the barrel spins a bit with the nut while initially tightening it. Maybe that's the concern. To confirm that hasn't happened, double check headspace with the go and no-go, as stated. (Maybe that's all you guys meant in the first place, Just trying to understand and make sure others, with less experience, do as well)
The nut pushes toward to the recoil lug as it get tighter. The opposing force is pulling the barrel away. That's my understanding. If the barrel and nut were one piece they would both be pushing in the same direction.
Okay. Gotcha. But it's not moving away to such a degree it can be measured. Still, when all is tight and secure, double check head space with your gauges so you know it locked-in where you wanted it. :)
Bill, Did you purchase an open end nut wrench or did you cut the end out of a regular wrench? Can you get good torque with the open end or do you get flex? Thanks
Random stuff. Threads act like a conveyor. It is the principle of most of your metal cutting machinery in the form of feed screws. A vise is another example. The amount of movement between the barrel and the nut is determined by the fit between the internal and external thread. For every action there is an equal and opposite action.
An angle grinder w/ cutoff disc made short work on the spanner then it was only the matter of cleaning it up. If you go that route don't try to use either or both of those tools to remove factory installed barrels, you'll most likely spring the ends of the open end wrench.Quote:
Originally Posted by Iowa Fox
I don't torque my barrels. I'll clean the action, barrel and nut threads, give the barrel threads a light shot of Break-Free and have at it. How tight? To a grunt or a grunt and a half. I haven't a clue if its enough or not, I haven't had any come loose to find out. :pQuote:
Can you get good torque with the open end or do you get flex? Thanks
Bill