Stevens 200, 7mm-08 to .222 conversion?

Hello all,

I have a Stevens 200 in 7mm-08 that I want to convert to .222 Remington. I hand load and will be using the rifle for 100-200 yard target shooting. I have some questions:

1) Just to be sure, is this conversion possible and is it just a matter of swapping parts?

2) From what I have read, I will need a new barrel, magazine (mine's detachable) and bolt head -- am I overlooking anything?

3) The only barrel maker I have found who offers a .222 Remington "drop in" for Savage is Shilen, and they offer 4 chambers. These show what I assume are different neck diameters; .255", .250", .246" and .242". The cartridge dimensions for .222 Remington show .253" at the neck; do I want the .255" chamber? Right now I believe I will be using the standard 50 grain bullet weight.

I welcome any and all advice, thanks in advance. :cool:

Your on the right track. The decision you have on the neck is referred to as a no turn neck. That will be a good decision. When I messed with a 222, the bullet I liked was sierra 52 grain HPBT match. Hornady 53 grain SP match is also really good. Your barrel will tell you what it likes. Reloading equipment decisions you will make must include a precision seating die with micrometer adjuster. I prefer a bushing resizing die. Hard to beat Redding for that. Are you thinking of a heavy contour barrel? If so you will need to look at a stock. Boyds is a good place to start I think that your hardest problem may be getting the right magazine unless you single feed. For target work it is often easier to single feed in my opinion. One of the most expensive decisions is your optics. This will be the highest cost item unless you already have a good one. Good Luck. Welcome to the madness. Be patient with your effort.

Strut64,

So the cartridge change is doable? I would prefer to magazine feed. The mag I've been using says 22-250, even though the rifle is a 7-08. Will a .223 style mag be plug and play?

I want to put a varmint weight barrel on. I currently have a Boyds thumbhole laminated stock, which will need to be refitted for clearance.

Optics -wise, I have a couple of Nikon Buckmasters; a 6-18x40 side focus and a 4.5-14x40, both made in the Philippines. Will either one do for a start?

I'm not that familiar with why there are neck-chamber options -- does it have to do with factory brass thickness and brass flow? Is it ultimately better for accuracy to have to turn you necks, even though it involves a separate step? If so, would the .250 neck be a better choice?

I just took a look at the Redding Type-S Bushing Die setup. Very interesting stuff, I have a learning curve to deal with! http://www.redding-reloading.com/online-catalog/118-type-s-bushing-dies

Homefront

in terms of optics you are OK. Great for your use as a starter. If one of those has fine target retical you will be OK

I chose a no turn neck feature for a 6 BR target gun and have not regretted it. Some people turn necks to insure that the necks have uniform thickness only. I experimented with neck turning and it did not help in my case. I use good Lapua brass now and use it as is in a Shilen barrel with no turn neck.


I originally budgeted a cost of about a $1000 to do what your doing - ended up closer to $1500. Jesus (Don't tell my wife)

Yes you will have a learning curve. It took me well over 18 months to get good consistent results - Be patient

Lots of help on this site and also others like accurate shooter.

Forgot to add. your change is certainly doable. the rifle I am using started life as a 270 Win and is now a 6 BR.

I need a 7-08 barrel, and have a 222/223 size bolt head as part trade. also some cash. Lotsa quarters etc in a Jiffy jar. If you live near Leesburg FL I'll show you how to change the barrel.
joe b.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by strut64

Homefront


I chose a no turn neck feature for a 6 BR target gun and have not regretted it. Some people turn necks to insure that the necks have uniform thickness only. I experimented with neck turning and it did not help in my case. I use good Lapua brass now and use it as is in a Shilen barrel with no turn neck.


I originally budgeted a cost of about a $1000 to do what your doing - ended up closer to $1500. Jesus (Don't tell my wife)

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Strut64,

I see your point about quality brass and the no-turn neck chamber. That sounds like good logic.

I'm assuming that number includes your optics? I will not tell your wife. Gotta keep things on the level.



Joe,

I'm in Pennsylvania, but we can definitely work something out. I bought the rifle new over 10 years ago and have hardly fired it, less than 200 rounds that I loaded modestly. Please be aware that this is an 11.5-twist tube. My intention is to buy the action vice, wrench, etc., and do the swap.

Homefront. Yes the cost did include optics but I compromised by buying used. so I saved a lot.
By the way I am in PA also. Near Huntingdon but moving to near State College soon.

I used to remodel the interiors of Giant supermarkets and did a few out by you. Pretty country.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by joeb33050

I need a 7-08 barrel, and have a 222/223 size bolt head as part trade. also some cash. Lotsa quarters etc in a Jiffy jar. If you live near Leesburg FL I'll show you how to change the barrel.
joe b.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by homefront

Strut64,

I see your point about quality brass and the no-turn neck chamber. That sounds like good logic.

I'm assuming that number includes your optics? I will not tell your wife. Gotta keep things on the level.



Joe,

I'm in Pennsylvania, but we can definitely work something out. I bought the rifle new over 10 years ago and have hardly fired it, less than 200 rounds that I loaded modestly. Please be aware that this is an 11.5-twist tube. My intention is to buy the action vice, wrench, etc., and do the swap.

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Take the wheeling-n-dealing private guys, otherwise I'll have to slap your fingers for doing so outside of the classifieds. :whistle:

I just did a Barrel and Bolt head swap. It is not the same caliber as you are researching but it was fairly easy to get done. My donor Savage action was a model 10 barreled in a .243 Win. I bought the Bolt head from PTG around $80 and a Savage prefit small shank from McGowen Precision barrels in a 22" length and had it chambered for the 6.8SPCII which came in right around $280. I had a smith do the swap and head space which I was ok with paying the $70 for since I do not have the tools needed to accomplish this. You might check with them to see if they can do your .222.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Savage1068SPC

I just did a Barrel and Bolt head swap. It is not the same caliber as you are researching but it was fairly easy to get done. My donor Savage action was a model 10 barreled in a .243 Win. I bought the Bolt head from PTG around $80 and a Savage prefit small shank from McGowen Precision barrels in a 22" length and had it chambered for the 6.8SPCII which came in right around $280. I had a smith do the swap and head space which I was ok with paying the $70 for since I do not have the tools needed to accomplish this. You might check with them to see if they can do your .222.

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Any magazine or feeding issues?

The first issue was that when I sent the bolt forward the round would pop out of the Magazine. Since it was a for a .243 I expected to have to make some adjustment. I did some checking and a few companies (Brownells and Midway) sell a magazine feed lip tool. I decided I was going to make my own since it a pretty simple looking concept. I used a large shank screw driver and cut it down and then I cut a groove in it to grab the feed lips and beveled off the other side opposite of the groove. Once I was able to get the box mag off the action which isn't too easy then adjusted inward in small increments. It made a huge improvement in feeding. It still isn't quite perfect probably has a hiccup about 1 out of 10 rounds but I'm going with it for now until I can get my hands on a .223 box or I swap out the stock and go with a DBM setup.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Savage1068SPC

The first issue was that when I sent the bolt forward the round would pop out of the Magazine. Since it was a for a .243 I expected to have to make some adjustment. I did some checking and a few companies (Brownells and Midway) sell a magazine feed lip tool. I decided I was going to make my own since it a pretty simple looking concept. I used a large shank screw driver and cut it down and then I cut a groove in it to grab the feed lips and beveled off the other side opposite of the groove. Once I was able to get the box mag off the action which isn't too easy then adjusted inward in small increments. It made a huge improvement in feeding. It still isn't quite perfect probably has a hiccup about 1 out of 10 rounds but I'm going with it for now until I can get my hands on a .223 box or I swap out the stock and go with a DBM setup.

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So, you had to move the lips of the .243 box inward, then later you'll have to move the .223 DBM lips outward? I'm hoping that standard .223 box and bolt head will just feed the .222 without drama. I hate drama.

I don't like drama either but tinkering can be fun in a way. I am hopeful what I've done will work itself out but if not and I do eventually have to go to a .223 box the feed lips will be just right without adjustment.