In the Boyd's Youtube video on opening the barrel channel, what is the curved, double handled tool pictured at 1:53? What is it called, and where can I get one? A search was unsuccessful.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxqbymnNeKQ
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In the Boyd's Youtube video on opening the barrel channel, what is the curved, double handled tool pictured at 1:53? What is it called, and where can I get one? A search was unsuccessful.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxqbymnNeKQ
Barrel channel opening tool..lol
Pretty sure midway and/or brownells has them. Look under gunsmithing. Sandpaper and the correct size pc of pvc or wood dowel has always worked for me though.
Thank you! Looks like most retailers have discontinued sales. Gunline has them in stock. Here I was thinking I was a skilled online searcher.
Same here and much less expensive than the bedding tool.Quote:
Originally Posted by pdog06
Just as was said: Sandpaper & dowel, as has been done for many decades. One thing, I’ve actually used one among a set of 1/2” drive long sockets I have wrapped in sandpaper. Always have one near the size of the barrel and the added weight over a wooden dowel is helpful.
Yep deepwell sockets and sandpaper work well and you can progressively select the next larger size as necessary.
I have dowels, sockets and PVC. I'm working on a second Boyd's stock for my MKII plinkers. The first replaced the tupperware on an FVT. The barrel was severely offset in the barrel channel. I went at it with various tools to open the channel to eliminate contact with the barrel. Frankly, it looks terrible, but there's no contact. If I encounter the same issue with the second stock, I don't want to waste time, I'll go at it with more aggressive tools. All I want is a free floated barrel in a rigid platform. I've got DIP bottom metal for both. I don't know where the fault lies, the receiver and barrel, or the stock. Either way, I want to finish the projects and get on with it.
The barrel channel tool was useful back when people believed that full length bedding, or tip contact was a good thing. It is still useful if you have a tapered barrel and want a very narrow gap.
But, 99% of the time sandpaper of various grits and a round block works better.
I used to build balsa airplane models and have two sanding bars (12" and 24"). They are about 3" wide extruded aluminum and had rolls of sticky back sandpaper. Those rolls come in very handy for stuff like this. You can do the same thing with a bit of contact cement on whatever form you use for sanding. I use custom forms for some woodworking tasks as well.
I did too. I have a wide variety of ssanding blocks from my time as collision/refinishing pro, you can get self adhesive sandpaper in a wide variety of grits at any autobody supply store. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by charlie b