Savage model 12FLV from 223rem to 6.5Creedmore!

Hi guys, I have a lot of questions, my M12 is about to be built into a custom rifle, it's a 223rem I'm planning to change it to a 6.5Creedmore, this is a left-handed action, I know I need to replace the bolt head and the barrel, I bout this rifle new in 2012. and I have not shot it in about 10yrs and want to do something with it, I know the 6.5CR and the 308win share the same bolt face Dia, I see PTG has a standard stripped bolt head for a 308, but it says it's for 10/110, will this bolt head work for my application?

Yes, it will. Model 10 & Model 12 both use the Short Action Bolt Head. I’ve been using a PT&G Bolt Head for several years now & love them. Every Savage I ever own will have one.


Heppy Thanksgiving.. or getting depending. :tea:

Thank you I have been looking at those bolt heads, I'm also trying to decide on a barrel length, between 24 and 26'', This going to be a target rifle, I do not hunt! but I also want to add a break on the end,

Im the same. I no longer hunt. Only Benchrest-Target shooting. And I don’t compete either. Simply shoot for the enjoyment.

If you are doing 6.5CM, go 26”. I’ve had 260 Rem for many years now and was using a 26” Shilen. I just switched to 260 Improved & a 28” Criterion barrel.

I'm no expert but it seems that many companies like the 26" for the 6.5 Creedmoor. And I just bought a Model 12 LRP in that caliber and it has a 26" barrel.

Good luck on your project.

Thanks 58, my 110 Tactical 6.5CR came with a 24''HB threaded muzzle, my hand loads with 41gns RL16 push a 147ELDM a tic over 2700fps, that seems like pretty good numbers to me? but IDK if a 26'' barrel would do much better?

Going 24” to 26” can pick up as much as 50fps (Typically 25fps per inch). I recommend forgetting the Brake & doing a 26”. Muzzle Brakes certainly can affect accuracy, but they will cause annoying, over-amplified noise & percussion! In a heavier Target rifle, they just aren’t needed with 6.5CM. There’s no recoil to speak of. Unless you just want it for the look. Which is fine. And if it’s for aesthetics, by all means, do it. Just understand you will forever be hated by those shooting beside you, LOL!

Dave, I get that when I go to the range now! I tell the folks I'm shooting next to, to get behind me, or expect all of your things to be swept off the bench and your ears to be hurting!:rolleyes:

Yeah, unfortunately it’s that sort of attitude of entitlement that really rubs others the wrong way. Don’t get me wrong, I’m all for your freedom to have your rifle exactly as you want it. And I don’t care what some may say, the aesthetics are a big part of it! We like what we like. However, it’s quite important that shooters show a level of respect to each other’s shooting enjoyment, when at a range. If I’m already shooting, and someone comes after I’m shooting & sits to my side with a small to midsize cartridge & a giant noisemaker on the end, blowing my eardrums out regardless of hearing protection, there’s going to be a problem. It’s the same as flinging brass all over another shooter. It’s the offenders job to curtail the effects of annoyances. But I know not everyone thinks that way.

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Originally Posted by Dave Hoback

Going 24” to 26” can pick up as much as 50fps (Typically 25fps per inch). I recommend forgetting the Brake & doing a 26”. Muzzle Brakes certainly can affect accuracy, but they will cause annoying, over-amplified noise & percussion! In a heavier Target rifle, they just aren’t needed with 6.5CM. There’s no recoil to speak of. Unless you just want it for the look. Which is fine. And if it’s for aesthetics, by all means, do it. Just understand you will forever be hated by those shooting beside you, LOL!

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Amen. A muzzle brake is indeed the quickest way to clear two or three bays on either side of you at the range. They`ve brought more than one of my range days to a premature end. I personally hate the damn things.