Yeee-UP! You gots a 3-screw there ya do! I can do fine, fine things to those. Set up properly those are the finest triggers Savage makes. Modification & proper set up they perform on par with pretty much any aftermarket trigger. Good stuff!:thumb:
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Yeee-UP! You gots a 3-screw there ya do! I can do fine, fine things to those. Set up properly those are the finest triggers Savage makes. Modification & proper set up they perform on par with pretty much any aftermarket trigger. Good stuff!:thumb:
It looks like a 2 screw to me. the 3 screws were older. https://www.coueswhitetail.com/forum...db01695ae4.jpg
EDIT: I know for a fact, the OP’s picture is a 3-screw. If a trigger has the Sear adjustment screw, it is by definition, a 3-screw trigger.
Ive always called these 3-screw. In the picture, the rear most screw is just difficult to see because it’s adjusted all the way up. Here is his pic blown up.
https://i.ibb.co/cTGZLk1/CECE5221-CF...78-E479729.jpg
This is what I’ve always called a factory 2-screw. It does not have the Sear adjustment screw. But I could be wrong. Still.. I can do nice things to that trigger & make it quite nice!
https://i.ibb.co/37sCz3b/A8-D96-E86-...E229914-DA.png
Yup that's how I have always heard them referred. 1 screw is just safety engagement, 2 screw is safety and over-travel, and 3 screw is sear and safety and over-travel engagement adjusts. If its got the sear screw then it's a 3 screw. Maybe there is some odd-ball out there I have yet to encounter idk but yes OP trigger is the 3 screw.
I have since had a chance to look at my inventory. I have both the old and the new style 3 screw. You are correct David. I missed that one.
Yes, they look different. The older 3-screw, like this, just had that roll pin, to hold the Bar-spring. The new ones were very nicely milled steel with a portion of it’s own to hold the Bar-spring.
Sweet! I’m becoming more enthused with this find every time I learn something new.
So you know.. I offer to all. If you can remove the trigger & Sear and send it to me, I’m happy to polish the mating surfaces to perfect 90% and install one of the Bar springs I make, and install Titanium shims I also make, to eliminate side play. I do this for members here at no charge.
Here is one of past 3-screws I did. Take it apart & clean everything.
https://i.ibb.co/Syrppb6/EA6-F4-B84-...ADE15-ABC5.jpg
Next I polish the mating surfaces. I use a homemade jig & ceramic water stones so the surfaces come out perfectly flat. I’ve said this for many years.. a Dremel is NOT friend to polishing flat trigger surfaces!
https://i.ibb.co/gZMX29m/CD0-E0-CA7-...3971-BFA10.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/sgcm6j0/090029-E6-2...599-B0-F62.jpg
Here is the thicker/heavier stock Bar Spring over the much lighter Spring I make. These I make from new .043” spring wire approx, on a spool. And below that, the Titanium shims, laying on top of one of my 6000grit Japanese Water Stones.
https://i.ibb.co/dBLpbmP/0-C7600-A1-...CBF058-E82.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/bH9SNbh/ABCC1-F7-B-...-DAA353431.jpg
Dave! That is extremely kind of you! When I get to the point I’m ready for that, I’ll hit you up! I’m assessing the barrel at the moment and considering new stocks. Any suggestions on a good precision stock that doesn’t break the bank, I’m all ears. I’ll also search the forum for that.
Look at Boyds stocks. Also Choate stocks. They are the two lower priced & more “ready fit”. Other than these it’s likely either one of the many different Chassis, or the much higher priced Carbon/Kevlar & Fiberglass stocks. Which besides costing $400, $500+, also require fitting & bedding.