How good are the Weaver scopes that come on the Axis xp? A friend has enough to get the gun and scope combo but doesn't have enough to replace the scope if needed. thanks for any help
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How good are the Weaver scopes that come on the Axis xp? A friend has enough to get the gun and scope combo but doesn't have enough to replace the scope if needed. thanks for any help
Are you asking about features, or robustness? If the latter then ...
If you completely disassemble the rings and bases, clean all the hardware with denatured alcohol to remove the oil (even the screw holes), then reassemble with loctite or another anti-vibe compound - I use Vibratite VC3 - torque eveything with an actual torque wrench, then zero and leave it alone; then it should be good until he can afford another one. And while you're at it, vibratite the action screws an torque them too.
I have $40 Simmons 4x32 scope on spring piston air rifle that has well over a 1,000, shots but its got Vibratite on everything, including the ring surfaces. I also have a $120 Nikon on a 30-30 that has over 700 rounds and Vibratite everywhere and it's still rocking. My 308 has a Bushnell Engage thats been Vibratited and it's still solid after 1200 rounds. My friend has a 22-250 and a 308 but does not own Vibratite, purple Loctite, or a torque wrench. He has sent both scopes and one set of rings back, in the last year. Vibratite and a Wheeler torque wrench is cheaper than a scope. Just my experience.
While I can appreciate Full Chisel’s excitement over a product working well, Vibratite has nothing to do with scope performance or longevity. Yes, it’s imperative that all mounting hardware be free of oils, greases, contaminates, etc, and need be properly torqued. But it certainly doesn’t matter to the optic HOW that is achieved.
The Axis XP is also available with the Bushnell Banner 3-9x40 scope. Which is a better option. https://www.scheels.com/p/savage-arm...700-57090.html
Bushnell is a better product and carries a MUCH better warranty.
https://www.bushnell.com/bu-warranty.html
The Weaver scopes that came on two Axis rifles I have are identical to Weaver Kaspa's. The reviews for Kaspa's are not good.
Dave, I don't know if you know it or not, but Bushnell and Weaver are pretty much the same company. ATK owns both brands as well as Simmons, Tasco, and Millet. In 2019, they discontinued most all Weaver scopes, except for the model's that they have a deal with selling them through Natchez Shooter's Supply.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Hoback
Both brands have the same Lifetime warranty.
The Weaver that came on my 243 Axis XP crapped out within 6 months......
Bushnell OWNS Weaver, but they are made in separate facilities & QC’d in separate facilities. Same in their corporate world, but two separate companies on the ground. And their warranties are quite different. Bushnell has their higher end line made in Japan as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Txhillbilly
Beretta owns Burris. But the Burris Xtreme Tactical II & the Beretta 92FS AREN’T made in the same factory, by the same people.
Yeah....I know a “little” bit.
I have had great luck with almost every cheap scope I have owned. Tasco, Bushnell, Weaver, etc. The only problem I have had was a Remington brand scope that came on a .22 rimfire. Part of the reticle came off the glass. The crosshair was still in place and it still worked.
I suspect the newer ones will be the same. Either they will last forever or will give out in the first 50 shots. :)
I agree to remove and reinstall the scope mounts after a good cleaning. I use regular locktite on the base screws. Not on the ring screws. Have never had one come loose.
PS my Axis came with a Bushnell, 4-12x40. Adj parallax. Worked just fine and was gifted to someone else who is using it years later. I got a Vortex Diamondback on sale so it replaced the Bushnell.
While I don't disagree that the Bushnell is a better option, I'm not sure what you're saying with your statement "Vibratite has nothing to do with scope longevity". Are you saying that vibratite and loctite don't do anything beneficial if all the torques are set properly? Cause if you are, I know some people that would disagree. Vibratite and loctite are intended to do the same thing - keep stuff from moving when subjected to vibration - just that the Vibratite coating is removable and reusable without recoating screw threads, in case you didn't know. If you think torqueing the bases and rings are gonna keep them from ever moving again, you're nuts. High end bases and rings, maybe, the cheap stuff, no.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Hoback
Geez man, one long Saturday out at the range and you'll see and hear guys dinking with their scopes and bases, talking about having to send them back, upgrading to a $1,000 piece of glass, yada, yada. It's always the same. Hardly any of them ever put any kind of locker on the screws, and sadly many of them don't own a torque wrench, but they all sure know what they're doing. Simple stuff.
And yeah, I know a little bit too ...
Dave, do you know where the Nitro scopes are made? I have 3 of the 6.5-24 and I really like them. The list price was $560 to well over $600, depending on options but they had some unbelievable sales on them. I think I got the last one for $215 after rebate. So far they have been great. I don't think they make the Nitro line today and maybe that is why the price was reduced so much on them.
This ^^^Quote:
Originally Posted by wbm
Their Kaspa line is cheap chinese junk. I wouldn't trust one at all.
The best deal on affordable rifle scopes at the moment is the sale at Cameraland NY for Burris Fullfield II's They are just $144 for a scope you could beat the Kaspa to pieces with, put it on your rifle and still go out and hunt.
While I would agree with you to some degree, Talley doesn't recommend thread locker on their integral base/rings and I quit using it years ago without issue. The proper torque is the key. Everyone should own a $40 Wheeler torque driver for that reason.Quote:
Originally Posted by Full Chisel
The last part there wasn’t meant in response to your post Full Chisel. You’re reading into what I said too deep. I am a proponent of using lock tight & or Vibratite(which I do use). My only point was simply expounding on thread locking compound being just that. Many people don’t use them and do not have trouble with loosening bolts/screws & such. That’s all No argument was intended.Quote:
Originally Posted by Full Chisel
I'm a big proponent of blue loctite on rings and bases and also have the Wheeler Wrench. I have a habit of letting them sit for 24 hours before shooting the gun. I put a set of Talley lightweight rings and bases on an Axis Compact in 243 and put a Zeiss Terra scope I picked up on clearance about a year before I bought the Axis.
While not on par with the Trijicon and Swarovski scopes I have it is fine for hunting varmints. The most recent scope I bought is a Riton that I put on an AR-10 with a Warne MSR mount. I put loctite on it but haven't gotten around to shoot it yet since I took the ACOG off. The whole setup is probably pushing over nine pounds and is pretty solid and torqueing everything was probably enough I'd rather not have stuff get loose.
But these aren't Talley rings on the OP's rifle. And some manufacturers and other industry gurus DO recommend using a locker, including Weaver, which is probably what his rings are.Quote:
Originally Posted by Newtosavage
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1009240379
I agree some of the higher tolerance/quality stuff can generally be torqued and left alone. But the OP is talking about buying the cheap stuff and not having the money to buy the good stuff. If you don't think the anti-vibe products have a place here, then that's your opinion, just do the OP a favor and don't mislead him into thinking they won't help; or, that the Weaver scope is gonna fail on the first box of ammo. That won't help him, or the of Savage brand. Seriously, you ever wonder why some people look down on Savages. Help the OP make his stuff work and they won't look have anything to look down upon.
I spent several years doing vibration analysis and remediation for a couple of BIG companies on products that got beat up way worse than this. A lot of went into shake and bake chambers before it ever went into field. You wouldn't believe what some good anti-vibe compound can do for you. They didn't always buy higher priced/tolerance equipment either. Sometimes they just locked the lower quality parts down good and replaced when necessary, which wasn't as often when you used anti-vibe.
Yep, I know a little too ...
Understood.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Hoback
But I highly encourage anyone who thinks loctite as only a threadlocker to actually go look into it further. It's more than that. It has actual anti-vibe properties by getting itself between the metal surfaces and can decouple two mating surfaces enough from one another enough to attenuate (to some degree) some of the higher frequency vibrations, which are you real destructive forces. Vibratite is even better at doing this. What's never talked about is every time you fire that rifle, you are basically hitting the "ON" button to an ultrasonic cleaner. Everyone only talks about the recoil.
That’s what I use the Vibra-Tite for. The GREEN, 567- High Temp retaining compound! I use it on my AR15 builds, between the Barrel Extension & Upper Receiver tenon. It takes up that .001”-.002” space in mine, and can help with severe fitting errors where the difference is .006”+.
Locktite has some of the same products. It’s all by the number used. Now I wouldn’t use Locktite 242/272 or Vibra-Tite 122,131 or even the Purple 250 for this job, as THEY are all thread locker compounds. Although there are people who do, I prefer using the correct compound for the job.
+1Quote:
Talley doesn't recommend thread locker on their integral base/rings and I quit using it years ago without issue. The proper torque is the key.
The red Vibratite VC-3 is what I recommended in the first post. It was made just for this kind of stuff.
https://www.vibra-tite.com/industries/firearms/
Well, I don’t see how isolating the screws does anything. Talking about small screws like 6-40, 6-48 or 8-40 screws... tiny things. The point of the screws is to keep the scope from moving. Screw’s threads are typically with around 3% of the threads in the hole. So on 6-40,6-48 & 8-40 the depth of the thread is what, between .020”-.030”? Take that 3% we are left with .0006”-.0009”. Let that sink in a bit. That number is Ten-THOUSANDTHS of an inch! How is a .0009” film of anything going to “isolate” and soak up ANY kind of vibrations, as they claim. I believe it’s doing exactly what it should... preventing screws from loosening or taking up thousandths of an inch spaces between surfaces for a higher precision fit in parts.
As for the scope, I simply stated that Bushnell has a better product, with a better warranty. Which is true. An Axis with a Weaver vs Bushnell scope are around the same price. Yes, I’m absolutely choosing the one with the Bushnell. Has nothing to do brand loyalty or this or that member having “great performance” from their Weaver scopes. I am speaking fact. Looking at the warranties is quite easy. Black & white online. Bushnell owns Weaver. They have more money, & a much much larger line of rifle optics. From very inexpensive to mid level up to Japanese built higher end Glass. Weaver can not claim the same.
Thanks everyone, he bought the gun but decided to trade it because of the scope not getting good reviews and no other options were available at the time. As everyone knows I had an Axis recoil pad problem, he offered to trade with me and I said ok, new gun for used seemed ok with me. I made a post on here about setting my Weaver scope then finding out a couple screws were loose on the rings that clamp the scope, I reshot and its still set and I made sure they are torqued good. However it still makes me think, I am on a fixed income so I couldn't go over $100 for a scope and less would be easier. I had a Simmons 8 point on my other Axis. What would be the best scope at $100 or less?, just in case I need to replace the weaver, thanks for any help.
I'd just look around at various forum classifieds, maybe even post a WTB (want to buy) for an inexpensive scope. You might get lucky. When I bought my new scope I gave my package scope to a guy on the cast boolit forum. He was in your kind of situation and I had the scope sitting in a drawer. Win-win.
Also watch the sale ads.
I know it`s in the 110 line as opposed to the Axis, but the Vortex Crossfire II that came with my Storm XP has held up well. Then again, it`s a .223 so recoil isn`t an issue.
" you get what you pay for..." 80's saying was " don't go less then $100.00 on a scope" but $100.00 went a lil farther then.. i tried tasco and cabela's brand before.. never again.. i'd pile up a few $ for a base leupold fixed sight.. but, i don't shoot across valleys like those rich folk on outdoor channel.. i have the stock scope the axis came with.. i'm pilling $ up for a leupold..
Hello Savage rifle shooters. I just picked up another Axis, 25-06, with a Weaver scope mounted with the usual cheap rings.
This Weaver scope looks near identical to the crappy Bushnells they first came out with. The only difference I can see is they put Weaver )in white lettering) on the left side.
not the typical green Weaver you would see. The scope is being replaced anyways, I’ve never bought the Axis for it’s optics that’s for dang sure. So far I just swapped the rings out and installed some Nikon rings. I have a lonely Leupold VXiii to replace the cheap glass.
Ours is holding up just fine. So far. It was a Xmas gift so it’s not that old.
I previously had a low cost Tasco on a 300 win mag I sold several years ago. It held up great on the gun it was on. Low cost, shot well and held zero fine.