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If you were swapping your barrel on your savage 110, would you replace the barrel nut and recoil lug with one of the 'better' aftermarket versions? I currently have the smooth barrel nut so it might be nice to keep it and to only need one wrench and also know for sure it fits in my stock.
I would replace the recoil lug at minimum but to get most out of that you should also bed the action. I would toss the smooth nut too, but that's my preference.
Thanks. It's an accustock.
Toss that nut in the trash and get one from Patriot Valley...
On a 100 yard deer gun, I wouldn't worry about it. Just put the factory stuff back in it.
On a 600-1000 yard prairie dog gun, yeah, I'd replace the lug, the nut and bed the action.
Depends on what you're building it for.
It's for big game and target out to 5-600 yards. That's if leupold ever opens their custom shop so I can get a tac milling reticle on my vx2 which will take me to 650. Otherwise, the tri moa on my vx freedom will take me to 500. It'll probably stay a 308 with a 24 inch
Asking this from a slightly different angle, how does it make sense to have a trued barrel nut if the action is not trued? It's a factory action. Are the factory barrel nut and recoil lugs the weak points in the system or something?
I have several untrued 12FV actions/lugs/nuts that I rebarreled and they shoot 3/8" groups. I personally think it's diminishing returns at that point. What is the purpose of the rifle? I just think the smooth nut is a PITA and I would use a pipe wrench to take it off and not waste the money on the special tool for it. If you are changing the barrel then convert it to something more standard.
If that rifle is for some serious work, I'll take the action and true
the face. Then head to NSS and get their heavier ground lug and
trued nut.....Better yet get a hold of "Sharpshooter" He should have
the same in stock.
Buy the NSS parts!
And you can talk to him on the phone, receive an instant email confirmation, know your items are on the way as promised and show up neatly packaged.Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilC
Bottom line?? If that's what you want and it makes you feel good, GO FOR IT!!
The recoil lug goes between the action front and the nut. Can't see it making any difference.
I have gone to an over sized lug to compensate for extra long threads on a re chambered barrel.
Did the job like I wanted.:cool:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuj'
Is truing the action face a hand tool thing or a lathe thing? Ive seen a gunsmith on the great tube using a lapping compound on the lugs.
If not can any gunsmith do it? I'm just not a fan of waiting a long time.
It's a lathe thing. The action will be indicated, A bit of dykem blueing will beQuote:
Originally Posted by shaffe48
dabbed on the face, then a skim cut. Some will just check the face with an
indicator, but once chucked up, I still prefer to cut through the bluing to see
where I'm at. Now comes the lug . It should be one that is ground flat and
parallel. Next is the nut which is also turned or ground in a fixture, flat. This
would make all 4 mating surfaces pull the barrel tight and straight.
Thanks. A close-ish gunsmith say $60 to true the receiver face but he says it's 2 months wait. I guess it would depend what the barrel wait times are.
I found this tool on brownells which would cost 100 dollars and I could do many actions. But it says Rem 700. (Regardless, it sure does look like it would do what people are describing.)
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...449-44950.aspx
Precisely AND he's a site sponsor. :thumb:Quote:
Originally Posted by Orezona
I contacted the vendor. He said he had the barrel id likely get in the shelf. Cerekote would only take a week. I'm guessing I'm not waiting two months to have the front of the receiver trued. The other gunsmith said I was wasting my money and he wouldn't do it.
Too bad you couldn't use a lapping compound to mate the receiver up to the trued barrel nut
Did you go with James @ NSS?Quote:
Originally Posted by shaffe48
Quote:
Originally Posted by shaffe48
I use a Norton 4" round hone, smooth side to get the face of the nut and the face of the action smooth as glass. Doesn't remove much material on the fine side. Figure 8's and turn, figure 8's and turn slow even pressure with some penetrating oil or similar product. My preference is Kroil. Most of the time after I finish, the surfaces will lock when dry. Sometimes the machine marks are too deep but I still get it shmuth.
https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/A...mages/JB64.jpg
I spoke to the gent at nss but I havent actually bought it yet. I'm still paranoid I'll pick the one that doesnt fit in the stock. Thee diagrams only give one measurement at the muzzle 0.729. My current barrel is .755 near the thread protector and 1.040 near the barrel nut. I also want to have the tools I need in order.
I will probably look into that Norton round hone. Might be the best compromise.
Yeah I was going to mention getting a barrel wrench from James.Quote:
Originally Posted by shaffe48
I have both a long and a short. I use the short more often with
my torque wrench, and the longer one if a nut gets stubborn.
First I will see if I can actually get my round barrel nut off with a pipe wrench. Otherwise, I'll see what I can rent and what i can't rent will be bought at the lowest price + shipping.
PM sent to shaffe48.
Ditto.Quote:
Originally Posted by Orezona
Make sure you don't grab the recoil lug with the pipe wrench. I have seen pictures and it was ugly.
The barrel was really on there and it really didn't have much to do with the smooth nut. Had I known I would have just bought a barrel vice. In the end I used a very large vice at my brother's work.
The factory barrel with 2.5k rounds on it will just have to go in the trash along with the trashed nut and lug...which I will definitely be buying new.
I am concerned with you savage smithing skills.Quote:
Originally Posted by shaffe48
And yet it's off. Youve gotta learn somehow.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robinhood
The nut was on there tighter than many of the videos I watched. And I'm only out a marred up barrel that I was taking off anyways.
It would have gone easier if I had dropped 50 dollars on the vise. I have killed two bears with the barrel so it did have some sentimental value. But practically speaking it's no big deal.
I'm not planning on lapping the lugs either. Assuming it was a good idea, the 'shelves' the lugs go on are already shiny except for the portion the lugs don't touch. I'm sure that action has been worked at least 10k times so that makes sense. They got smoothed out whether it was a good idea or not.
LOL, You are correct. I think back sometimes and some of the things I did scare me. Keep your eyes and ears open and ask questions and you will do fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by shaffe48
So what barrel are you going to replace it with? And once you get it, we can start a 10 page gripe fest on the "proper" method of headspacing...
Probably a criterion .308 24 inch light varmint stainless. But who knows I could change my mind maybe 15% chance.Quote:
Originally Posted by celltech
Purchase is on hold now for a good month because the hunting trip we were planning had a sale so we just dropped a down paymentfor 2022. After I get it shooting I'll say how it went. Im guessing well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by celltech
This is what savage smiths do.
Several things to consider when "truing" up a Savage action. If you simply chuck the action in a lathe, you are indexing off the outer circumference of the action. The actual tenon thread may or may not be co-axial with the outer surface. So if you true up the action face to the outside, it may not be perpendicular to the threads. IOW, a wasted effort unless you develop the tooling to index off the threads, not hard to do just required time and effort. Then there's the variation in thread pitch/dia to contend with. So how close is close enough?
All the Savage model 12 actions I have were knurled around the action face, which produced a slight burr on the outer diameter of the face. This is easily seen once you've removed the barrel and lug. I assume this was a work hardening effort. But I've had a model 12FV where the recoil lug was offset from the face due to that burr, and subsequent removal of the barrel showed a irregular wear on the barrel nut and forward face of the recoil lug.
So I'm in the same camp as Robinhood and hone the burr off the face. I don't have a precision flat plate, so I use a very flat sheet of glass and 800 grit wet/dry (I bought from Scary sharp supplies https://taytools.com/collections/sup...y-sharp-system) and lapping in figure 8's.
Subsequent torque up shows a perfectly flat mating surface, and I always buy a new precision ground nut and recoil lug from NSS.
Thank you for posting this information. I have a new model 10 action from NSS I will do this to when the time comes. Is this a good size? https://taytools.com/collections/sup...y-sharp-systemQuote:
Originally Posted by Texas10
Yes, that's what I bought and it works fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Orezona
There's one more thing to do to your new action, especially if planning on shooting 223 Rem. One of the corners of the bolt head abutments is very sharp and will dent/gouge your 223 cases upon ejection. I alway take a small grinding stone in a dremel tool and round that corner. Its located on the left side (of a right eject action) when looking into the threaded end. This damage occurs when the spent cartridge clears the breech as the bolt is drawn back. The ejector spring causes the case to slam hard right into that sharp corner. You can actually count number of cycles on your brass by counting the number of gouges in the case just under the shoulder.
Well dang, more great information. I will look at my .223 brass from the PC Carbine. It is a shooter for sure. Now I need to shoot it with the new can.Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas10
Does anyone know where you would get a 'quality' recoil lug for the accufit stock? I understand they are different. And especially now that ive decided to true the action and get a better nut along with my new barrel, I don't want to undo my efforts with another factory lug.
I suggest you call a site sponsor, Jim at Northland Shooters Supply. I don't see a specific description for the item you are looking for but he is a great guy to do business with.
I ordered my barrel and barrel nut today. They had the one I wanted in stock.
The nss lug does not fit the accustock.
I found some threads on here about machining a lug to fit the accustock. I'm going to try ordering a pcg parrallel lug of the right thickness. I think these are also made to be of uniform width unlike the factory version.
Anything you advise to tell the machinist other than give him the old and new lug and ask that the new one has the same height and width on the 'lug part.' I have searched older threads here as well.
Actually I can also say that I just took out my existing lug and measured it with a pair of reloading calipers to find at the points that they barrel and lug contact there only seems to be a max difference of .001 (so +-.0005). On the corners there is more variance but still only +-.001 total for the entire lug.
I now wonder would a machined lug actually be any better at all? One benefit might be the addition of the alignment pin which I'm now worried about.
It doesn't fit the Accufit Accustock, this is whey I suggested giving him a call. Glad it worked out for you, keep us posted on your results.Quote:
Originally Posted by shaffe48
I talked to him when I ordered my barrel. He said to use the current lug. I've read on this forum that someone from this business suggested to someone to modify the stock to fit the lug. To me this isn't acceptable. If I modify something it's going to be the $20 part not the $200 stock.Quote:
Originally Posted by Orezona
(But if it's for you then it's for you.)
I'm still uncertain what I'm going to do. Is the machined lug from ptg really going to outdo my current +-.0005? Is this alignment pin going to help? I mean the pins look smaller than the notch anyways and I already can see the outline of the notch on my current lug.
I could go into something long winded here but I don’t want to. So let’s attempt to put Your mind at ease. You have measured Your current lug and it is certainly accurate enough for Your stated shooting purpose. You have asked the advice of a very knowledgeable and helpful person, and he suggested using the lug you have. I agree. Put Your rifle together and start shooting. The target will tell You if something is wrong. And I’m willing to bet right now it won’t be the recoil lug.
Getting more long winded, for Your(big game) hunting purpose, You only need to hit a 10” pie plate at what ever distance You are shooting. Easily achievable. For 500 yard target, that kind of accuracy gets boring fast. A hunting rifle is a hunting rifle and a target rifle is a target rifle. I and others here have been where You are. Put Your rifle together and go have fun. Your targets will tell You what You want to do next.
I could go on but hopefully this is enough :( JMO