I did the install and everything seemed amazing. BUT, now when I fire the sear wont reset? The cocking indicator is up when the bolt is opened but once I start to lock the bolt back down the cocking indicator goes down with the bolt?
Printable View
I did the install and everything seemed amazing. BUT, now when I fire the sear wont reset? The cocking indicator is up when the bolt is opened but once I start to lock the bolt back down the cocking indicator goes down with the bolt?
Do this test safely, i mean be prepared for a slam fire but depress only the safety blade and close one into the chamber and let us know of it fires.Quote:
Originally Posted by Elktrout3wt
Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
It’s a pre accutrigger. I installed the Sav-1 Rifle Basixs trigger on it.
Oh sorry.. duhhh.. went right over my headQuote:
Originally Posted by Elktrout3wt
Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
No worries. I have been reading so many posts and the only thing that is even close to my issue is increasing the weight of the wire to help engage the sear?
I think off hand i.would suspect a malfunction with disconnector.. im sure sharpshooter or robinhood will see your post and give you some good advise
Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Yeah you could have on the trigger where the sear engages misshapen, spring to loose, discon not resetting trigger ( thats where my money is) I admit I'm nowhere nearly as well rounded in savages as others in here, I specialize in big bore ARs but I own a few savages that I have learned from and learned to tune thank to our old timer smith hereQuote:
Originally Posted by Elktrout3wt
Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
I also put the action in a new Bell and Carlson stock as well. The gun looks great and after it was all put together my function tests felt even better. Very crisp trigger compared to my old one. But I shot the gun once last night and the trigger would reset?
May sound obvious but (dry fire of.course) will everything reset like it should if your take it out of the stock?Quote:
Originally Posted by Elktrout3wt
Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Just loosened up my stock (both action screws) and it re-sets now? Dry firing is fine? Something must not fit in there....?
Exactly:) your onto it now..somewhere in the action portion of the stock it is binding up.which once you find it , it will like take no more than a little sanding to provide needed reliefQuote:
Originally Posted by Elktrout3wt
Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
I could even be the rear action screw its self i reckon if some how it goes in to far. Usually the screws are different lengths. Maybe you swapped them?Quote:
Originally Posted by Elktrout3wt
Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Removed some swollen portion of fiber glass behind the trigger in the most rear portion of the action area. I might have time tonight to shoot a few. Or one shot if this doesn’t remedy the issue.
I did swap them! Ok, shame on me... so! I replaced my wooden stock with a Bell and Carlson blind box. Same style stock as my stock wooden one. I replaced my action screws, plastic trigger guard with a metal one and finally my stock pre-accu trigger with the silver Rifle Basix’s Sav-1.
Good deal.. i hope that got it:) from what I know by word of mouth and installing a.couple basix for people, they seem to be a good sound triggerQuote:
Originally Posted by Elktrout3wt
Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
I compared my previous rear action screw with the old one and it’s shorter. Once the threads engage I can get four full rotations until it’s real tight. Then torquing is another half rotation or more....
So I’m guessing this action screw is going in too far and binding things up?
That is very possible, only one real way to know.. i would use the original one after taking length measurements and assuring you are getting plenty of threads engagedQuote:
Originally Posted by Elktrout3wt
Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
I will bring a washer with me while I shoot tonight. Four rotations has to be a touch more than needed.
I would think so as wellQuote:
Originally Posted by Elktrout3wt
Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Just a thought but could you lay the two triggers side by side and compare dimensions. Where they are different maybe a place to look for clearance issues.
_.
Sounds like he was saying once he removed action from the stock that it cycled/reset like it should, i reckon that could change under real world pressures and use
Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Something is causing the binding. To me it sounds like the action screw needs to be shortened and I would look at maybe removing some material from the stock. Savage stocks have been notorious for having action screws bottom out on the action. I normally remove about a turn and a half from the action screws.
I believe he has a boyd stockQuote:
Originally Posted by LHitchcox
Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
If I am understanding what you are saying. The screw is too long and it is affecting the trigger function. If the rear screw is too long it will prortude into the bolt raceway either binding the bolt or not allow the bolt to go into the action. The trigger will not work because the bolt will not go into the action or it is bound up? Then by removing 1/16th" the bolt will now be unobstructed and the trigger will now work. Am I getting that right?Quote:
Originally Posted by LHitchcox
I have had front screws hit the bolt head by being too long. I have yet to see one bottom out.
Remove some wood right above the rear trigger guard screw. Most likely the rear arm of the trigger assembly is contacting the stock and being pushed upward as you torque down the action. Remove the trigger guard and look to see if there is enough clearance.
Robinhood & jpdown are making good points. The rear action screw, if too long, would interfere with the bolt. 4 threads is normal for the rear screw and 6 or 8 turns would still not protrude though. Rear action screw length on a Savage/Stevens is very forgiving and rarely a problem.
Jpdown suggestion is the most plausible explanation. The overtravel screw on the non accutrigger RB trigger or the trigger return spring adjustment on the accutrigger version, or very back of the trigger itself may be "just" touching the stock when the stock is torqued down. Also look at the length of the rear trigger guard "wood" screw. The new B&C fiberglass stock may be slimmer than the factory stock & the sharp tip of that screw may also be reaching the trigger or pushing fiberglass towards it.
The trigger guard itself should be examined for touch points on the trigger shoe, but the RB trigger usually has been good here from what i have witnessed.
A good test would be to torque it down in the original stock. The RB trigger may also interfere with the wood but it then can be narrowed down to the fit of the trigger in the stock. I've installed several RB-Sav1s and had to remove a little material in a few of those installs.
Good luck
C'mon give a homey some credit lol
Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Shot it tonight with some brass washers that I got at Ace. I put them under the new trigger guard, so between the stock and the trigger guard. Everything works as it should! The action screws were binding it up. The gun shot great even with the steady wind. I haven’t hit anything with loctite yet. Once I have a nice calm day I will get the torque driver and loctite out to set it all up right. Thanks for the help and trouble shooting with me guys. Next project is getting the damn bolt apart on my 22-250 12fv...
The main pin that hold the bolt face in can be stubborn and just watch out for springs and balls dont go flying:) other than that its pretty straight forward.Quote:
Originally Posted by Elktrout3wt
Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Never been a fan of Loctite on action screws, but if you do, get Loctite 222 (purple)Quote:
Originally Posted by Elktrout3wt
It's meant for aluminum and brass screws. It's more then enough hold strength.
The main bolt is all I’m looking take off. My bolt handle has a small manufacturing defect. Doesn’t affect anything but me knowing it’s there. Haha
So not a fan of loctite? What do people generally use? I know the rifle basixs trigger recommend that or nail polish.
99 of a 100 times just proper torque will keep it and occasionally go through and check your spec. . If you loc it like the one gentleman said use purple or removableQuote:
Originally Posted by Elktrout3wt
Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Agreeing with others, no loctite on the action screws. Properly torqued with pillars in the stock will keep them tight. Wood stocks without pillars require re-torque periodically if they were loctited they would be "loose" if the stock shrank.Quote:
Originally Posted by Elktrout3wt
Yes put a little "blue" loctite or nail polish on the RB trigger adjustment screws. I just pulled apart & readjusted an old Rem trigger that I nail polished over 30 years ago when I adjusted it at new. The nail polish held fast all that time with thousands of shots through the rifle.