6.5 wsm barrel threads

Hey guys, I just received my McGowan 6.5 wsm barrel I've been waiting 4 months for. I had a fit taking the smooth barrel nut off of my model 10 but I finally got it squared away and the new barrel is waiting for headspace gauges to arrive. I have the barrel lightly screwed into the action and the barrel nut is literally finger tight but I'm concerned with the amount of threads still showing after just finger tightening the new barrel nut. I'm sure once it is headspaced properly the barrel will shoot just fine, but I am concerned with the amount of unused threads. Is this normal? Because if I try to screw the barrel onto the receiver anymore, the bolt won't close at all. Even without headspace gauges.

Is this normal?

Are you talking 1/8"of threads showing or 1/4" or 1/2"?

Good question. Again I don't have headspace gauges YET to get a final measurement. But on an empty chamber and just screwed in finger tight, I measured .115" of threads showing. I guess it's just a cosmetic issue as I had the barrel cerakoted black and those stainless threads stick out like a sore thumb. But I ordered a long shank and my barrel nuts are the same from factory/aftermarket. I can upload a picture if that will help.

Thanks

Accidentally double posted

Just to alleviate your immediate exposed threads concern, why not pop a case into the chamber to use as a rough headspace gauge?

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Originally Posted by Pcc1421

Good question. Again I don't have headspace gauges YET to get a final measurement. But on an empty chamber and just screwed in finger tight, I measured .115" of threads showing. I guess it's just a cosmetic issue as I had the barrel cerakoted black and those stainless threads stick out like a sore thumb. But I ordered a long shank and my barrel nuts are the same from factory/aftermarket. I can upload a picture if that will help.

Thanks

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Not clear on how far into the receiver you screwed the barrel??
If you screwed it in until it contacted the rim of the bolthead, you're in .125-.130 too far.

If that's what you did, it accounts for what you're seeing (and those exposed threads will disappear once you back out the barrel when headspacing)

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Originally Posted by tobnpr

Not clear on how far into the receiver you screwed the barrel??
If you screwed it in until it contacted the rim of the bolthead, you're in .125-.130 too far.

If that's what you did, it accounts for what you're seeing (and those exposed threads will disappear once you back out the barrel when headspacing)

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The barrel is usually about .010" off the rim of the bolt head. So if you close the bolt(with the bolt head you are going to use), screw the barrel with the nut and the recoil lug into the receiver until it makes contact with the bolt head you are within .010" plus or minus where the barrel will end up at correct headspace. Once you run the nut down to contact with the recoil lug, you will have a good indication of how many threads will be exposed if any.

A thicker recoil lug would take up much of the extra thread if neccessary.

I've seen this before.......it's about McGowan not knowing enough about thread lengths. The fact is, you have a large shank barrel that was threaded for a standard short action caliber, but your action uses the "heavy magnum" bolt head, which has 1/8" longer lugs. That sets the barrel 1/8" farther ahead, thus exposing some threads.

Do You have the recoil lug installed :rolleyes:

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Originally Posted by Robinhood

The barrel is usually about .010" off the rim of the bolt head. So if you close the bolt(with the bolt head you are going to use), screw the barrel with the nut and the recoil lug into the receiver until it makes contact with the bolt head you are within .010" plus or minus where the barrel will end up at correct headspace. Once you run the nut down to contact with the recoil lug, you will have a good indication of how many threads will be exposed if any.

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Thanks. Misspoke, I was thinking boltface and not rim...

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Originally Posted by tobnpr

Thanks. Misspoke, I was thinking boltface and not rim...

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I knew what you meant. It happens to me all of the time.

I think sharpshooter may have hit the nail on the head. The recoil lug is installed and I believe a thicker recoil lug would cover up the threads showing, I just wondered if there would be a safety issue. I put an empty case in the chamber to get a faux headspace reading. There are about 3 full threads showing or about .125". I appreciate all the responses. I understand that it's basically a cosmetic issue but I just wished the overall look was "cleaner". Thanks again guys

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I think sharpshooter may have hit the nail on the head.

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This is not uncommon.

This is nothing more than a cosmetic issue. One of the solutions we come up with was a wrap of foil tape about 1/4" wide to conceal the threads.

That's all I needed to hear. A thicker recoil lug will probably do the trick. I just needed to make sure that it wasn't dangerous or faulty. Thanks to everyone.

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Originally Posted by sharpshooter

This is nothing more than a cosmetic issue. One of the solutions we come up with was a wrap of foil tape about 1/4" wide to conceal the threads.

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How does that look? Do yo mind posting a picture?

It looks better than threads exposed......the aluminum foil tape kinda blends in with a stainless barrel. Sorry, no pics.

Get a longer barrel nut that covers the exposed threads. X-Caliber makes them

Honestly, I can live with a few threads. The barrel is cerakoted black and I will simply paint the threads back if I decide against a thicker aftermarket recoil lug. It sits in a chassis anyway, and only the top part of the threads are showing, I just wanted to know if this was a common issue and if it was SAFE to shoot after I headspace it and tighten down the barrel nut.

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Originally Posted by foxx

Get a longer barrel nut that covers the exposed threads. X-Caliber makes them

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This is what I would try. No way I'm spending money on a new barrel and then wrapping tape around it. I'm not saying it is stupid or insulting the suggestion. I'm just saying I wouldn't do it.

To fix it proper, I'd send it back to McGowen and let them make it right....after all, it's their mistake.

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To fix it proper, I'd send it back to McGowen and let them make it right....after all, it's their mistake.

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And if you add a message about getting future threads correct, and they listen, you will have corrected that situation. Doing that that will prevent future Savage barrels from having the problem.

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Originally Posted by wbm

And if you add a message about getting future threads correct, and they listen, you will have corrected that situation. Doing that that will prevent future Savage barrels from having the problem.

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Originally Posted by sharpshooter

To fix it proper, I'd send it back to McGowen and let them make it right....after all, it's their mistake.

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Agreed. I like my stuff to look like I care about not just throwing it together.

To rule out a short chamber (highly unlikely- but not out of the realm of possibility) you can easily measure case protrusion with the barrel pulled.