Need help?! Nikon Black FX1000 on a 10Ba Stealth 6.5 creedmoor

I have recently been wanting to get into long range/distance shooting. Paper and metal targets only. I bought a new Savage 10Ba Stealth in 6.5 Creedmoor. I chose to go with the Nikon Black FX1000 and Vortex PMR low (.87") rings.

To be honest, this is the first rifle I have ever owned. That being said, I don't know what I'm doing as far as mounting the scope. I've watched countless youtube videos and asked many questions. I don't want to take it to a gun smith or someone to do it for me. I want to learn how to do it properly. That way I can do it again if I ever need to.

I have mounted the scope and leveled it to the best of my abilities. I just don't feel very comfortable with my work. I still have questions.

1. I'm not sure on the placement of the rings on the picatinny rail. (How far forward and how far backward)
2. I'm not sure on how for forward to place the scope.

My problem is that I have an adjustable stock, and when I look into the scope from the second notch, I can see clearly through the scope without any black rings. But, when I try to adjust the parallax turret the rear scope ring is too close to adjust the turret. I'm getting to the point of being frustrated... Any help would be awesome. Thanks.

*I would add pictures, but I don't know how. Sorry.

A precision, long range scope is not designed with an adjustable stock in mind. Adjustable stocks are made to tailor the length of pull to a particular shooter.....FOREVER! They are not designed for the shooter to "Change" positions from day to day!

The placement of your scope, the rings AND the stock are for YOU, the shooter, to achieve YOUR most comfortable length of pull, while still achieving proper eye relief. So set up the stock length FIRST, to where you are most comfortable. Then set up your rings according to the scope's eye relief, which in the case of your Black FX1000 is 3.5"-4". The eye relief btw, is the distance your EYE is from the scope for sight picture.

LOP is typically best from the point at which you grip the rifle (pistol grip in this case) to your bicep. You may find up to 1/2" more or less is the most comfortable for you after tweaking it.

To set eye relief put the back ring as far back as it will go then adjust you front ring based on what you need to mount the scope after setting eye relief. If you find you need to move it forward move the back ring forward to get more play. Once you have eye relief and rind settings figured out then put the top caps on making them just snug enough to allow move of the scope. Reset eye relief and level the scope.

Scope leveling, I use a weapon mounted scope level mounted to the scope rail to level the rifle. I then level the scope off the top turret (to start). Tight the scope cap screws in a "star" pattern keeping an eye on the level of the top turret. Some rings you will find that each time you tighten a screw the level moves, other high quality rings it barely moves or not at all.

Once the scope is mounted set up a plum line, turn the rifle away from the plum line and level it off, then turn the lights off and use a bright flashlight aimed through the objective lens. This will produce an (upside down) image of your reticle on the wall that you can verify on the plum line. If it does not match up you can loosen the cap screws and make adjustments to match it up.

This should get you on the right track, but I would be happy to further explain if required as some of the terminology may be new to you.

A lot of things to consider when mounting a scope for longrange shooting. 1 consideration with your choice of Nikon's BLACK FX1000 scope would have been to go with their BLACK Series 1 piece mount with 20 MOA built into it. 1 less thing to worry about later with the 1 piece mount. There are a lot of excellent scope mounting videos on youtube that can help you. Making sure the scope reticle is absolutely verticle will make all the difference int he world as you start to stretch out the capabilities of you and your rifle. Make sure screws are torqued to specs too.

Follow Lone Wolfs advice and dont be afraid to make minor adjustments to fine tune once you get in the position you would like to shoot from. It is after you get the scope in the correct position that you adjust the reticle to level. Otherwise you will chase your tail.