110 Bolt Lift/Cocking Issue?????

I just replaced the pretty much the entire bolt on my 110 264wm build.

It started it's life as a early model 270win LA flat back. So to upgrade the bolt to handle the mag cartridge the bolt head had to be replaced, well then I found the firing pin is larger, so a new firing had to be ordered...while I was buying parts I decided to buy all the small parts for the bolt head and the sleeve the firing pin goes through.

So now I have a new firing pin, new Sharp Shooter bolt sleeve and new mag bolt head including all the extractor and ejector parts. Everything went together smoothly...to be honest I didn't measure the length of the assembled firing pin/spring so it could be a bit long.

Any way when I dry fire the gun I can't lift the bolt. I did notice the bolt release is pushed down against the action. Once I partially remove the firing pin it comes up and I can open the bolt.

I plan to take it out of the Choate stock and see what all is moving cause the release to be pinned down.

Any instant tips on what I did wrong? I would imagine I'm not the first one this has happened to...

Assemble bolt with firing pin in the fired position. Does the cocking pin make contact with bolt body?

I assembled the bolt in the fired position and the firing pin just barely protrudes. I'm pretty sure I screwed the rear piece on too far. I matched the striker end, but I already had the old firing pin disassembled when I though to pay attention to the assembled length.

How do you determine proper firing pin length?

You need to start from scratch. Disassemble the firing pin assy. Start from the front and set the pin protrusion at .035". Then reassemble the spring and the cocking piece lock washer and start the cocking piece nut. Screw the cocking piece nut until the spring is compressed around 2.600". Then, reassemble back into the bolt and push it to the fired position and check to see if the cocking pin is bottomed out on the ramp. Adjust it so the pin has about .005" clearance from the bottom of the ramp.

Also check your front action screw to make sure it isn't too long and contacting the bolt head.

I'm using the bolts that came with the stock. If I don't dry fire it...it opens fine.

I'm positive the firing pin length is my problem. I'm going to play with it tomorrow and will let you guys know...

Thanks everyone!

Do you possibly have a left hand bolt body?

The sear is normally in the lowered position after firing, nothing unusual about that.

I would try try backing out the cocking piece some, not sure what would cause the binding you're experiencing unless the cocking pin can't access the ramp to be reset.

Well guys...problem solved. I was the firing pin length. The end cap the cocking button goes in...was too tight. I looesn it up so the firing pin was protruding the way it should. Then I screwed the end back our so the button would easily fit in the hole. Then I reassembled the bolt.

BINGO...bolt works smooth as a button! It is actually better than it was originally.

I love happy endings.