going to order a boyds classic and was doing some reading and some say pillar bed it and some say don't. ive heard if I pillar bed it I need to glass bed it and the pillars.
what do you guys do?
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going to order a boyds classic and was doing some reading and some say pillar bed it and some say don't. ive heard if I pillar bed it I need to glass bed it and the pillars.
what do you guys do?
Mine is out of the box stock. So far, I don't see any need for bedding.
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+1Quote:
Originally Posted by andyknaster
I'd wait until you get it and see where you're at before you start making modifications. Everyone wants to jump in blindly with both feet before they even establish where they're starting from. Mine shoots 1/2 MOA consistently right out of the box with handloads - no pillars or glass bedding.
I bed and pillar all of my personal rifles just for the heck of it. Not certain it's necessary.
THere's nothing wrong with going without it and seeing how it shoots before bothering.
As a rule if I bed I pillar. But, I recently bedded an Axis but didn't pillar. It's what the guy wanted. He saw no noticeable accuracy improvement. Next step is to pillar bed it. And to be honest, it could be a dicey job because of the plastic on the Axis bottom end.
Besides, the barrel of my Axis doesn't touch my Boyd's stock, so where is the benefit in bedding the stock?
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idea is to bed the action to the stock for a stress free (no binding of action) installation . It's not about free floating the barrel in the barrel channel.
OK, so please educate me. My action is mounted on two metal pillars and nothing else. How does bedding the pillars or the channel provide a stress free installation?Quote:
Originally Posted by foxx
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The Boyds stock does not have those pillars. The action will sit on the top of wood that does not have a perfect (though likely adequate) fit. As the wood swells and retracts under various humidity and temp conditions, it can impose stress or binding on the action. By adding pillars you prevent the wood from compressing under stress of the tightening of the screws and deforming the wood so the torques remains consistent. As for the bedding, you remove enough wood so there is a good, solid bedding matrerial base that the action sits on and resists the wood's changin shape benieth it due to humidity or lack thereof, etc.
You factory plastic stock should not need bedding.
My Boyd's stock has two metal pillars at the attachment points.
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If your axis has a factory wood stock, you might not need bedding. BUt if you have peroblems maintaining consistent accuracy in different conditions, it may shoot better with a good bedding job. Regardless, the OP was asking about BOYDS stocks. They do not come with pillars.
My Boyd's stock has pillars. I can't explain beyond that.
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Pilars prevent action screws from compressing the wood around the screw holes, nothing else. The wood can still swell and contract changing the shape of the stock and imparting stress on the action. I am NOT saying your gun needs it, I am saying bedding the action corrects the problem of action binding in a wood stock IF the stock is doing so. But pillars alone are not the solution if it does.
I don't know what you are asking. Boyds stocks do not come with pillars installed. If you own ANY wood stock without bedding it, you are vulnerable to binding problems.
I'm not asking anything. I thought that I saw metal pillars when I transferred the barreled action from the Savage stock to the Boyd's. However, I'm far from infallible, so I could be mistaken. Right now, my shots touch. If my groups start getting larger, I'll remove the action and if there are no pillars, then I know what to do.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...808c04d118.jpg
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I Pillared and Glass bedded my Axis into a Prairie Hunter... After about 6-9 months of the stock being on the gun, it started to get sloppy (Laterally). my group would shift to the right about 1-1.5 inches after it got warmed up.
Problem was solved by doing the job, however it is quite a PITA to be honest.
what was so bad about doing it? I have never done one before but I'm sure YouTube and a couple forums would help me with it. do the pillars just slide in or do they need glued in?Quote:
Originally Posted by SageRat Shooter
^^^^Pillars are normally added as part of a complete action bedding job. They get epoxied into place with the same material as the bedding compound. If you choose to simply pillar the action, they would need to be anchored in place, positioned so that the action screws are centered in the pillars and free floated such that they do not strike the sides of the pillars when fired. The job could be considered a PITA because, to make it effective, the action and pillars must be set "just so". I can't explain the whole process here and now, but keep in mind the whole point is to eliminate any binding of the action.
http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...052#post407052
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UK3g81i6-so
I watched these videos as a "how to" you will see what I mean by PITA after you see what he has to do as far as the glass bedding. The pillaring aspect wasn't that difficult. Although I did have access to a drill press, which helped simplify things.
For my pillars, I did use the spacers just like social did, but I used .5" for the front (nothing changed) and 1" for the back (with a little grinding)...
I cannot help but add some more info regarding the theory behind pillars and bedding. Everyone is right but forgetting the most important reason for the epoxy. The name of the game for small group sizes is consistency, the epoxy helps with this. Every time the rifle is fired the forces are reacted by the recoil lug and the friction force generated by the action screws clamp force. If anything is not symmetric or square in the assembly the action will move relative to the stock. Then the next shot will not be consistent with the previous shot. This is where the epoxy helps, the action has no where to go.
The pillars are there to allow for higher clamp force without damaging anything or distorting the action (this part depends on when the pillars are installed with relation to the epoxy).
Sorry for the drawn out answer, I'm an an engineer through and through.
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That's great info. It's nice to know why something should be done.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cmgoff
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