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I've searched for this combo but find a thread addressing it. Need scope rings for my HS Precision .300WM/Vortex PST 50mm objective. I thought one of my sets would fit but all are too high with my 20 moa rail. Any advise on rings and rail are welcome.
what 20 moa rail are you using ?
i used a weaver 20 moa rail and Burris signature zee rings in a medium height and it worked for me with a leupold VX3 6.5-20x50 30mm scope. and from what i understand the EGW base is similar in height if that's what you used ? i should add this set up is on a savage 11VT but they look similar for the most part.
http://i.imgur.com/yxkgT0Ll.jpg
here is a pick of the clearance i ended up with.
http://i.imgur.com/DtseE4ql.jpg
and this is how it looks now (best pic i had)
http://i.imgur.com/9Ye12S9l.jpg
That is about what My Vortexx PST looks like two to, I have thought about cutting the end of the base off so that I could get lower rings. I am closer to the scope base then I am to the barrel.
Gunman, I used a weaver rail. Bedded the rail and upon rechecking with a straight edge found it to be slightly bowed. Now back to square one after taking all the bedding compound off. I looked for some of the Burris rings since I've had good luck with them but couldn't find any low or medium. Yours looks pretty good. I'm having trouble paying for $150+ low rings that are available (Leupold). I can lap the rings if needed. I was disappointed in the selection that Cabelas had. They are less than 10 mins from me and used to have a huge selection of rings and bases. Now it's a third of what it was.
Mill keep looking for the medium Burris. Taking the weaver rail back in the morning for a swap.
I love to use Amazon, and if it's not what I like it is an inexpensive return.Quote:
Originally Posted by REDDOGAGGIE
If you still have the 0 MOA rail, put that back on and spend the money of Burris XTR signature rings (1 inch). No lapping needed with the inserts. You can get up to 40 MOA with the inserts. Have this setup on my Savage 338 Lapua Magnum. Not quite as low as I wanted but works great.
I have the same gun as you and on my 20 MOA rail I used theWarne 214M and they fit like a charm. Zeiss 214M rings are the same and you can find them on either ebay or Gun broker for a good deal.
http://i1021.photobucket.com/albums/...v/IMG_0412.jpg
http://i1021.photobucket.com/albums/...v/IMG_0413.jpg
http://i1021.photobucket.com/albums/...v/IMG_0415.jpg
i don't know if this will help but this is the rail i used and i believe your scope uses a 30mm tube so this set up should work i think ?
oops i just realized yours is a long action and mine is short action so the rail wont work i believe, i am not that familiar with savage long action rifles but the rings i linked will.
http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/...pslfpwydii.jpg
and these are the rings
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Bearcatrp those are my words exactly and have typed them here many times. Ditch the 20 moa bases they are nothing but a hold over from the days before Burris Signature rings. To me the scopes in the pictures look like they need to go forward a little. Doesn't matter what base or rings you use if you don't have the correct ring spacing you won't have a clue what your cranking on the knob.Quote:
Originally Posted by bearcatrp
Only an issue with the Signature Rings. Not an issue with any of the "angled rails" using conventional rings, as the axis of the scope is parallel to the surface of the rail. You can move rings as far apart or as close together as you want with standard rings and change nothing other than what minuscule variations in scope surface might occur.Quote:
Originally Posted by Iowa Fox
I personally prefer the Seekins rings that use a lug fitting the slots in a picatinney rail with no fore/aft movement. Also prefer their method of securing rings to base using two flush T-25 Torqx screws. Nothing to snag kit or flesh, unlike the cross bolts that are are smaller in dimension so they can fit Weaver bases as well as the Picatinney Std mounts, and have a large nut extending on one side or the other.
Seekins also provides the same rings to Vortex with just different markings.
I had these same thoughts, just not sure how to go about 'hiding' a hideous hack job on the base. Wish they made them in a non-extended profile.Quote:
Originally Posted by hereinaz
Remove the base and cut it off using a miter box and hacksaw. Dress the rough edge with a flat file then hit it with some flat black BBQ Paint or the Birchwood-Casey Black Pen. Rather than spray the rail, I'd spray some of the flat black paint in a can lid, just enough to cover the bottom then dip the shiny end of the rail into the paint. Hang the rail up with a piece of string (I often just use dental floss) until dry.Quote:
Originally Posted by RustyShackle
You'll never notice the cut off end. Just bevel with the flat file to match the un-cut end before painting.
That would probably suffice, however I'm curious to how it would hold up over time. Seems like an etching primer would need to be used first on the aluminum. I guess I am a bit of a snob when it comes to things like that. I don't like bubba'd projects. Maybe I'm over thinking things.Quote:
Originally Posted by Deadshot2
Also if using the Burris Sig rings with inserts if you can do some simple geometry its pretty easy to calculate how much deviation the inserts accomplishing over the distance between them.
You'd be amazed at how well paint will stick to freshly cut aluminum/steel before it gets a chance to get contaminated with oils and waxes. If you want something that will hold up almost forever, find someone who has some left over black Duracoat. "Bubba Jobs" usually have a certain "look' that goes beyond paint. Like maybe just cutting off the end with Bolt Cutters or leaving the hacksaw marks behind, along with the crooked cut. If you do the cut at the front of the rail, it will be concealed to all but those who see it with the scope off. Chances are nobody will ever notice.Quote:
Originally Posted by RustyShackle
Quote:
Originally Posted by RustyShackle
I cut a weaver rail like stated above. Used fine sand paper to dress it smooth. Then taped and painted the end with a flat black. It was like that for 4 years on a hunting rifle and never came off. The plus is, the front edge of the rail that showed the cut was only about 1/8" thick and hidden under the scope for some protection and sight. I sold the gun this year or I would post a picture. The gun shop that I traded it to never noticed the cut.
If anyone is looking for the Seekins 20 MOA rail, Midway USA has it on sale.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/71...t-action-matte
Well I looked into a couple of those options and finally found the right combo. I feel kind of dumb having to ask others as I have a couple hunting rifles that I have shooting 1/2 moa regularly and do all the work myself including reloading. For some reason this one just never seemed to work so I actually took it to my LGS and found a Warne base /lupy ring combo that works very well. I was actually pretty impressed with one of the guys that helped me, he had a lot of knowledge and experience. One thing I've learned thru the years is that even with a lot of knowledge in firearms, someone still knows more. You guys are also a great resource! Thanks.
No one in the area had the Burris rings and I hate ordering without knowing for sure if it works.