Printable View
I was at the pa 1000 yard shooting class this past weekend and really enjoyed it. I was considering building a 6 dasher using an older 110 action I had and wasnt using. My question is, how accurate are builds using these older actions? I also was considering using my 116 action on a 7 saum. I would like to eventually compete, but wondering if I should just wait on a used panda or bat action.
dont wait put a rifle together and go shoot some matches....
this is a clunky old long action(started life as a 110BA 300wm)with nothing fancy done to it other than a SSS comp trigger and a shilen select match barrel chambered in 260rem...ive shot several 1000yd matches with this rifle...best score 591 22x worse score 573 8x...load development and shooter skill play more into it than the rifle at first once you are able to out shoot your rifle then its time to think about a high end build....
also i shoot off a bipod and a rear bag(and not a fancy bag)not a rest...
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/.../photo3-38.jpg
Definitely start shooting now with the most consistent rifle you have.. F-class shooting is something that you have to evolve into I think. It takes time to gather up all the equipment you need and develop good technique.. This is all coming from a guy that has 2 matches under his belt.. Its just good ole clean fun...
I am doing something very similar right now. Thought about going the custom route but a friend of mine that is a very decorated shooter told me to just do a Savage right now since that's what I know. He said it should be good enough to get me going for a few years. By that time I can rebarrel it as a hunting rifle and go with a custom action if I feel necessary. He pretty much just said that a Savage probably won't take you to nationals but it CAN make you competitive at local matches. I figure it will take me shooting out a barrel to get everything figured out, get reloading dialed in, and start to understand the wind. I may even be going to cheap on parts of my rifle but I can always upgrade as I feel necessary. I'm going to have about $800 in mine not including optic and bipod. Hopefully it will be a fun experience. Now if my barrel would just get here!
If you want to run a 6mm get a standard .243W to start off with. Lots of good brass, bullets, powder, etc for them and it won't break the bank to shoot it for a couple years. Just about every body has good quality prefit barrels nowadays so ask around the site sponsors for best deals and shortest waits. Get something in the 28 inch length and you will be good to go. Once get some experience you can change barrels/chamberings later. The great thing about the 110 & 116 action is that it a long action and you can use a lot more offerings.
Next you will need a good prone stock, SSS laminates or sometimes the Bell & Carlson composites are not too spendy.
Scopes are where the money comes in. Lots of options there, do a lot research and don't buy a scope on a whim unless you absolutely need one right then. The two most important scope requirements for competition are clarity and repeatability of the knobs.
By all means start shooting long range ASAP. Any rifle and load that gets your bullet to the target at Mach 1.1 or better and you are good to go. If you find you love the challenge then you can begin to refine your equipment as your finances allow with better stocks, scopes, actions and barrels. Most winners rise to the top on the basis of superior wind reading and consistency. Better equipment will help you be more consistent, but only experience will teach you the finer points of wind reading. Have fun and best of luck.
I put together a budget 6mm BR Norma F-Class rig by buying a used, but new in the box, Savage 12 in .243 Win. I immediately sold the barrel and stock and got back all but $300, but I now had a brand new action with an Accutrigger. I bought an "in inventory" 28" Shilen Match Select 6mm 1:8 twist barrel, a go gauge, and a barrel nut wrench and screwed everything together myself. The barrel arrived in less than a week.
Then I bought a Boyd's stock for $119 and mounted a 3" wide plate to the forearm which matches the bag on my front rest. Boyd's got the stock to me in less than 10 days from when I placed my order.
Finally I found a used, but new-in-box, Burris XTR scope for $900 (list $1499).
I now enjoy shooting a very accurate gun which always does well and wins from time to time for well under $2000 (including the necessary assembly tools) and I didn't have to wait around months and months to gather the components.
My F/TR gun (also a Savage) cost at least a grand more and I had to wait nearly 6 months before I got the components to put it together. In spite of the additional cost and supposedly "better" components, it doesn't shoot as well as my bargain basement project gun.
Your long action will be a great platform to build off of. A good barrel will set you back around $300, Choate makes excellent stocks, I run an UV, and those can be had for ~$190, a decent trigger will set you back ~$100, and a scope, spend as much as you can. I highly recommend loading. Brass might be easier to come by for the 7mm WSM, or even easier to get, would be the 7mm remington magnum if you don't mind the belt.
Well I picked up a 6 dasher to start with sold a scope I had and used the money towards the purchase.
Rich
your on the right track...the dasher has set a lot of records and the barrel life is fantastic so you can practice a lot.
Definitely. The Dasher is very popular for a reason.Quote:
Originally Posted by LongRange
I live in highly populated area that puts out many of the great shooters. The competition is tremendous. In that environment you learn that the first thing, maybe the most important thing is competing with yourself. Otherwise you may become frustrated with the lack of success. Your personal gains will get you where you can be successful and start to win or place. at that point you may or may not outgrow your old savage action.