338 Lapua Barrel for Savage LRH in Mcrees chassis

Down the road I am going to set up a new to me Savage LRH in 338 Lapua with a McRrees stock and a heavy stainless barrel. I know there are a bunch of you guys out there that have done all the "thinking" and the hands on "doing" on this so I would like to see what you would recommend. Back when I used to frequent this site almost every day, the choices for Savage prefits was pretty small, I think about 4 companies. With all the choices today it is kind of bewildering. All I have shot before were Pac-Nor, ER-Shaw and Hart barrels. All three of them would give me sub 1/2 MOA with handloads.

• Will be shooting at 600-1500 meters once or twice a month, from the prone position on a bipod as well as from the bench.
• I prefer the 250 to 300 grain bullet weights (Best twist for that range?)
• The factory recoil lug LOOKS way better than my other Savage rifles. Is it tough enough to hold up or should I replace it with something else?
• The Barrel Nut is smooth, I prefer slotted. Is a factory slotted nut an OK option and if yes, where do I get one, or does someone make heavier construction / better barrel nuts?
• The stock trigger is excellent. I don't feel the need to replace it.
• I like the Armalite brake better than the Savage as it feels to me to give much better recoil reduction, albeit more back blast. Can I buy the Armalite brake to fit the Savage threads? I plan on keeping the factory brake on the factory barrel for converting it back to a hunting gun each fall.

My Armalite AR-30 in 338 Lapua shoots 1/2 to 3/4 MOA for three shots from a cold barrel with 250 SMKs. I won't be very happy unless my new barrel on the Savage consistently hits 1/2 MOA or better. I am capable of shooting that size groups if the gun will. Have shot some groups on the teens with other rifles.

Please school me as to what brand of barrel, twist rate and the best brake (If the Savage brake has issues), etc. to use to achieve that.

I went with a Pac-Nor prefit for my Lapua.

29" NBRSA contour, 1:10 twist rate (ideal for the heavy 300 grain SMKs), threaded 3/4x28. Still waiting on it to arrive (should be within the next couple of weeks), but I have no doubts that it will shoot lights out.

I'd suggest ordering a machined recoil lug and barrel nut from SSS, NSS, or whoever tickles your fancy. They're just so much beefier than the factory ones. Chances are the stock ones would be fine, but what's another $50 just to be safe? They usually sell them as a combo, but talk to Fred (SSS) or Jim (NSS) and they will get you tightened up with one.

Leave the trigger if you like it.

The brake is going to be up to you, I've used the T3 Terminator and Allen Precision 5-port Large Painkiller brakes to date. Both were very effective, but the PK definitely had the advantage in recoil reduction. There's also a much bigger back blast due to the slate design of the Painkiller, but you're not shooting a Lapua to be discreet... You could most likely get the Armalite brake to fit if you were able to find out the thread pitch (then just have Pac-Nor or whoever thread your muzzle for that), BUT I don't want to guarantee anything since most Savages employ the use of a crush washer to properly index muzzle devices.

Thanks for the response WinnieTheBoom. Based on the design, I would expect that PK to be more efficient at recoil reduction and your experience ratifies that. I also prefer the way it looks to the T3. Based on how the T3 looks, I would guess performance would be between the Savage brake and the PK. The Armalite brake is a bit cheaper so I may try to find a used one since I know how well it works. My 338 AR-30 kicks less than some of my 308 rifles.

What is the thread spec on the Savage factory 338 LM barrel? My quick google seemed to indicated it is 5/8x24. (The Armalite 338 brake is 3/4x24)

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Has anyone tried the Muscle Brake on their 338 Lapua?

You are correct, it is 5/8x24 from the factory. If you're able to find an Armalite brake secondhand, it would certainly be an interesting option. I did consider either that or a Sako TRG brake, but found that they're more difficult to find than the AP, T3s, Badgers, etc. Again, just remember to factor in the crush washer as that's how the Savage brakes are indexed from the factory... If you're looking for a metal-metal mating surface, you may need to have some material removed from either the barrel or the brake itself. Not a deal-breaker by any means, but something to keep in mind.

I've not any experience with the Muscle Brake, but I've heard that they're very good as well. The APA Fat ******* may be another option to consider, but it sounds like you're a pretty big fan of the Armalite piece.

Again, thanks for the info WinnieTheBoom.

I ended up with a pre-fit X-Caliber 27" fluted / melonite treated barrel for a good price, which has 5/8x24 threads and I don't want to re-thread it so the Armalite brake is out for this barrel anyway.

I am now leaning towards the 3 or 4 port Muscle Brake, APA FB or the 3 port Painkiller. For now I will shoot the factory brake with its 90 degree ports. Not nearly the felt recoil reduction of the Armalite, but it will be in a McRees chassis, so it won't be that bad to shoot for a few hours plus it doesn't have the face slapping concussion that the Armalite produces.

The FB are supposed to be very good. There's a video of there company testing one on a 338 Lapua on YouTube. Kinda entertaining lol. Mine uses the factory 110 BA brake and does a good job. It wasn't until I went to scheels a few weeks ago that I learned the hs models and what not have a completely different brake. I'm assuming the same factory one you have. Didn't look to effective at all

Geezer, I was originally going to go with the Large PK, but Kirby said he was out of stock and didn't know when his machinist would have them back in. He didn't return my most recent e-mail, so I went with the T4 Terminator brake.

I have experience with the T3, which was excellent on the .338, but the T4 is optimized for Lapua sized and larger cartridges. It's very similar in design to the FB, so it may be another option to look at.

There are plenty of videos on YouTube that Terminator products compares their brakes to, so check some of them out and you'll see what I'm talking about. Good luck.

what are the factory threads on the 338lm shank? are they the same as the large shank?


whos got prefit 338lm barrels?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by simo hayha

what are the factory threads on the 338lm shank? are they the same as the large shank?


whos got prefit 338lm barrels?

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Yep, standard large shank threads. McGowan and X-Caliber I believe make pre-fits. I custom ordered mine from Pac-Nor but it took about 3 months to come in. Sinman will make a Brux for you but you're still looking at 8+ weeks. Really depends on what you're looking for.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by simo hayha

...whos got prefit 338lm barrels?

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simo hayha

I went with an X-Caliber, 27" fluted, nitrided, threaded muzzle. Mainly because of the price and that it was in stock when I bought it a few weeks ago.

The X-Caliber has just under 50 rounds fired and is shooting 1/2 to .65 MOA 3 to 5 shot groups, in a McRees G7 chassis with 300 SMK's seated 0.006 from the lands, Coated with TiS₂, Retumbo, Fed LR Mag Match primer, Lapua brass unprepped, factory brake.

As noted in another thread of mine you won't be able to set tight headspace with this barrel unless you take some metal off the front of the bolt, or the rear of the barrel. I went the easy route and took a few thousandths off the front of the bolt head (Not the bolt face, the actual front edge of the bolt head).