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Hi guys. I tried searching and came up with nothing.
Has anyone ever welded a barrel nut to a barrel to make switching barrels faster without headspacing? (Disclaimer: these barrels would only be used on the same action, never between different actions)
You would end up with a FAUX Remington :wacko:
Dean
It might save you 1-2min tops and negate you from swapping or selling the barrel in the future. But other than that why?
Mainly because once I have fire formed cases and specific loads built (with relation to COAL and Ogive measurements) I wouldn't have to worry about any slight variations to those measurements when switching barrels. I don't have a large collection of barrels and I only shoot 30-06 (not the rifle I'm talking about here, it's going to stay 30-06 for my reasons), .308 and .243. The .308 and .243 are the two I'm interested in doing this to.
interesting...maybe just a tac weld at 2 or 4 points i wouldnt weld it solid as steel moves with welding.
Yeah I wouldn't run a full bead all the way around it. Maybe 2 tig beads in 3 places equidistant from eachother.
If you tig even better...ive tig welded a little but not very good at it...mig or stick my beads look like a stack of dimes.
you put a stick or mig weld on that barrel and you deserve what you get, just a little advice from a guy with over 30 years of professional welding experience... That being said I wouldn't tig it either. I just would not do it... but that's just me.
I will have to agree with EFBell post. Never weld on a barrel. The heat it would take to weld the nut, well you would soon end up with a 2 piece barrel. Just remember the pressure your putting on the chamber area while shooting.Quote:
Originally Posted by EFBell
Dennis
That's why God invented JB Weld:ban:
Dean
Hmmm.... jb weld. Thats worth a try, maybe. I'll try it on one of my fire pokers to see if it works out.
Thanks, Dean.
Why not double nut. Yeah it would be custom machinework but it would get you what you want and it would be reusable.
Why not use Red Loctite?
And LocTiteQuote:
Originally Posted by scope eye
Why not just get shouldered barrels?
I wouldn't have to send my action in for proper headspacing. I live just outside of Chicago so my local gunsmiths are a bit lacking in precision bolt gun experience.
As the others have said, I just don't see much point to it. If anything you could use reference marks so you at least know that you're close.
If you're that adamant about keeping them exactly the same then just get another receiver and swap the bolt/stock every time... Not as cost-effective but that's about the only way I'd want to do it.
"Here it is from the horses mouth. The Loctite Corp..
Q: How can I remove a fastener that is "permanently" locked in?
A: The application of heat is needed to remove a fastener that can't be removed with a hand tool. Temperatures of 325Fand above is needed to break down a standard anaerobic, 500F for high temperature Anaerobics. A heat gun or propane torch is commonly used to do this process, and careful disassembly should occur while parts are still hot. Once apart, and cooled, use methylene chloride (Chisel #79040) to remove cured excess material. Always wipe down the fasteners with clean up solvent to remove the wax film that Chisel leaves on the surface.
If I were to want to fasten a barrel nut "semi permanently' Red Loctite would be the only way to go. 325 degrees would not have any effect on barrel at all. You can get a temperature indicating crayon so not to over heat.
I wouldn't suggest welding precision barrels... I get the "welded or pinned" muzzle devices part for length on carbines... But anything in the barrel would effect the steel. Uneven temps on steel will undoubtedly affect your barrel in a negative way. If you're guttsy, using JB weld will be a sure fire way of perminantly affixing the barrel nut if you use it like locktite on the threads.