Planning a "Build" on my 11 FCNS

Right now overtime is coming in heavy so i want to get the parts I need and be ready to make changes after Jan 2 when deer season ends.

I have a Savage 11 FCNS 7MM-08 in accustock with DBM.

I plan on changing the barrel to a Pac Nor, 1:9" 22" stainless select grade barrel for the same cartridge.

I have a smooth barrel nut so I will be changing that out to one that has the grooves for a wrench.

I want to install a new stock - probably a Boyd's at first and maybe a nice composite in the distant future.

- I know I need to ask Savage if I have a standard or large shank barrel thread for the barrel and nut info.

- should I just re-use my lug if for whatever reason I first use the Accustock, because it won't take a standard lug? And buy a new aftermarket lug for my Boyds/etc stock?

- does the DBM bottom metal drop right out of the Accustock or will I need to purchase new bottom metal? Is bottom metal just the part that the magazine clicks into (mine is all metal, not plastic) or trigger guard and bottom bolt release as well?

- how about if I just convert to a blind, will this save money because things I have read indicate I reuse my existing parts and buy a little L Clip from savage?


Thanks for any help and I look forward to building a semi custom rifle and pillar and glass bedding it.

You have a standard shank based on your model caliber combination.
Use your lug. It is not even close to flat but you can always change it if you get a new stock.
If you decide to go blind you nailed it. Your bottom metal should fit an aftermarket stock with a Savage DBM inlet. Educate yourself with JPDown's informative article here: http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...Parts-Tutorial

How do I remove my bottom metal from the accustock?

Remove the action and trigger guard. Take thumb and press downward on the magazine. Its tough but you can do it.

Thanks! One last question - is it possible to pillar bed the rear action screw when I have the bottom bolt release? Seems like the screw goes through the trigger guard, how does the affect bedding?

I took time to learn more about my rifle tonight and getting out the bottom metal was much easier than I thought (just push, as Robinhood said).

It looks to me like that I would need to install all of the bottom metal as part of a pillar bedding job, as the front action screw contacts directly on the front of the bottom metal, and the rear action screw force transmits via the trigger guard, the button retainer, the bottom metal and the rear pillar.

Is that the case, and how does one "locate" the action and the bottom metal such that any future expansion/contraction of wood doesn't affect these? It seems to me that the wood expanding would cause the bottom metal to move which would transmit to the action, despite pillar bedding?

I do not seem to have Part 31 on my rifle and also only have one of the washers, part 19G?

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10...1d11bd39d1.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10...be88a1e983.jpg

If the pillars make contact with metal on both ends you should be fine.

Do you know why I might not have part 31?

Savage confirmed on the phone I don't need part 31 (used for thinner trigger guards) and don't need a second washer 19G