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They look sharp!
Cant completely tell from the pics, whats your setup? Optics....barrels etc .
Scooter
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Very nice rigs. Ive not had the opportunity to do much longer range shooting. Got to shoot 750 and 575 this summer (at different times). I was amazed at the wind reading/adjustment....wow! It has a way of really humbling you! Lol
Im eventually wanting to do a 6.5 something. Im starting to lean toward the 6.5x55. Especially with todays stronger actions. Theyre right up there with all "new and improved" cartridges.
Good luck, keep us posted.
Scooter
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Sounds awesome. The range I'm a member of has out 400, I can drive a while and get as far as I want but I dont get to do it much. Hopefully next year I will
Scooter
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Lol...I can get a mile pretty easy down there. Its on old reclaimed strip mines. Thats where I got 750 this year. I was amazed when my father-in-law took me up there. It was awesome!
Cant wait to go back and stretch out to 1000....
Scooter
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nice rifles!!
what F-class are you going to shoot? distance? number of rounds fired for each string?
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gotcha...our F-class matches are 3x20 at 600 and 1000yds meaning you shoot 3 strings of 20 rounds per string and have 20mins to shoot each string. you get unlimited sighters on your first string and then only 2 sighters for each of your last two strings.
if you can go and watch a match and see how its ran and start practicing like they shoot because shooting a 3 or 5 shot group at 500,600 or even a 1000yds is one thing and shooting 20 rounds at those distances is a entirely different ball game...the X ring for 600yds is 6" and the X ring for 1000yds is 10" so the X ring is 1 MOA...they sound big until your looking through your scope.
the reason I'm telling you this is because if you want to be competitive in F-class you need a load that will shoot consistently smaller than 6" and or 10" 20 shot groups at 600 and or 1000yds.
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no not 60 rounds back to back...for sake of number let say you have 9 shooters...you will break into 3 groups...3 ppl will be in the pit pulling targets...3 ppl will shoot a string of 20 rounds and 3 ppl will be spotting for the shooters...after the first group finishes their string of 20 they will spot for the group that was spotting for them...after the second group is done shooting their string of 20 the first group of shooters will shoot another 20 rounds while the second group spots...after the first group of shooters is done with their second string of 20 they go to the pit and pull targets and the guys in the pit come to the line...this rotation goes on like this until everyone has shot 60 rounds for score.
sounds confusing but its really not and that's why I say you should go see how it works so you have an idea...you can watch a few strings at the line and then go up to the pits so you can see how they pull targets and mark them so the shooter can see his impacts...its fun and after you see a match and shoot in one youll have it down.
also if the guy you bought the rifles from shot them in matches you should ask how many matches/rounds....F-class is pretty hard on barrels because of the heat the 20 rounds generate...this is why I only shoot a few F-class match a year.
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Pick the one that you like/are most comfortable behind and or shoots the best...extend your range to the distance you plan to shoot and shoot a 20 shot group then check your target..if you can keep all 20 in the 9 ring or better your doing good and most likely need to practice more on position and trigger control... if your 20 shots are all over the target then you and your load need work...by yourself some 600yd F-class targets and practice in the wind and learning to read the wind.
And you might want to start saving now for a new barrel for spring when you start your matches...or have the barrel your going to shoot set back at about 2000 rounds. Theres a lot more to this than what we have talked about like when to clean your barrel? Does it shoot better fouled or clean? How is your load going to preform with atmospheric changes?
If the guy you bought the rifles from is local id pick his brain for all the info you can get and try to go to a match and talk to the guys and girls there.
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My suggestion is to buy lapua brass and good tools and learn how to fully prep your brass...i can tell you that doing one thing dont do much but when you do it all the gains are big...if you decide to go with the 260 i can help you out with a lot of info on what ive found works best as far as bullets powders primers and even how to chamber for best preformance.
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Accurate shooter has a lot of good reading on brass prep and ill try to help you out and answer question...
For a press i use a redding single stage...a forster coaxe is better
Dies forster and redding are the best until you step up to customs
Brass prep tools either 21st century or k&m...all mine are k&m
A good beam scale...scott parker is the man to see
A good digital scale for weighing brass...i use a dillon D terminator...a gem pro 250 is better
A good set of calipers....i use mitutoyo
A good neck trimmer...i use a LE wilson...the little crow gun works is supposed to be faster
A good electric case prep station to help speed things up...i got the layman becase it comes with all the accessories
A good primer seating tool..i use the k&m with the gauge
A good stainless steel tumbler to clean your brass and nothing does it better or faster than stm
Theres a few things i missed but you get the idea....do you HAVE to do all of this? No i guess not it just depends on what you consider accurate...at the end of the day if ive shot a bad score im not wondering why because i know it wasnt my rifle or ammo.
Another thing your going to want is at least a 32 power scope. That will enable you to concentrate and easily see the 1/2 MOA X ring. A mirage shield that attaches to the top of your barrel will be in order.
I agree but dont use either... im not a full on F-class guy but if i was id have and use both.Quote:
Originally Posted by DanSavage