Possible options for rear pillar on center feed savages?

Im in the process of inletting my stock and pillar bedding it. It's a mcmillian a5 that will be going on a short action 11 with accutrigger. The sear/bolt release on the trigger will hit the pillar if a complete pillar is put in. Savage just takes of the back half of the pillar. Others do the same thing.

Seems to me that would cause issues...maybe? I am thinking about making a very thick pillar to avoid that problem so that removal of one side will not affect anything. Then again, I haven't done a pillar bedding job yet so I hope to learn here first. Im definitely doing research before I go butchering my stock.

May be this article could help you:

http://www.varminthuntinginternation...20Bedding.html

Be careful, notching the sear can weaken it and cause it to break when you least want it to. I don't believe going the route he took is a wise way to bed for strength.

I don't think id ever notch it. But man, whoever designed these things either didn't care or knows something I don't about pillars. My stock has pillars in it, so i know they thought about it.

Pillars are not designed or installed as a means of offering support. Nor do they replace bedding. For those reasons, they do not have to be large or even "substantial". in size. The notch cut out of the rear side of the pillar is perfectly fine. It has no affect on it's strength or performance.

The only purpose pillars serve is to prevent the action screws from compressing the stock material when torqueing them down and getting exposed to various temps and humidity, etc. When pillared, the screw will hold it's torque.

If you want / need consistent action support that the current stock is not offering, it should be bedded. Normally only wood stocks require bedding.

I normally use simple "lamp rod". It is cheap, readily avail at Walmart or hardware stores (look in the lighting department). I like the fact they are threaded on the outside, so the epoxy has something to grab ahold of. When done, I drill/ream the inside of the pillar even larger so as to allow plenty of room for the action screw. You never want action screws to touch the inside of the pillar under recoil. They need to be free-floated just like the barrel.

Take the trigger group off the action and bed the complete pillar. Then cut the notch with a Dermal tool using a cut-off wheel. Be conservative, you only need to take off about 1/3 .

Ic. That makes since now.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bsekf

Take the trigger group off the action and bed the complete pillar. Then cut the notch with a Dermal tool using a cut-off wheel. Be conservative, you only need to take off about 1/3 .

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+1 this has worked well for me on several Savage's. I've even used hollow steel pillars from old Mausers. Rough sanding the pillar with 80 grit will provide enough roughness to cling to the bedding material quite well.