Removing factory barrel

Holy Cow!

I've dealt with tight barrels before, but this one is ridiculous.

it's an older, flat back 110 and 2x now I have sheared the action hole bolt bolt off my Wheeler Action Wrench at the top of the action screw hole.

I am using the action wrench, nut wrench and a long wrench attached to the nut wrench for more leverage. Normally, all I have had to do is tighten-up all three screws, lay it out on the floor and put step up on the two wrench handles and the barrels breaks free. Now all I am doing is shearing-off the action bolt.

Other than using a hardened screw for the action hole (I'm going to get one now), does anyone have any suggestions?

Maybe let the action wrench torque up against the recoil lug instead of using the bolt?

I considered that, but I am thinking the tab on the lug and the recess in the action might be not be as strong, even, as the bolt was. I don't want to risk damaging the action "slot".

:(

Maybe I can't damage them?

Ditch the action wrench and use a barrel vise.

And add a little bit of heat to the barrel nut. You may be removing it with a dremel anyways so you haven't got much to lose.

And don't forget to soak it in kroil for a day or two.

probably salts caused corrosion, spray some pb blaster kinda stuff and let it sit, cool the entire thing and then heat just the nut.

I did one of the new flat black models for a firend of mine. Where I didn't break the action bolt off, I bent it, and my SSS barrel nut wrench getting that beast apart.

The finish had leeched into the threads under the nut and more or less glued them together. Getting the barrel nut off was a chore, and cleaning that finish out of the action was a bear as well.

I've never had a barrel nut that wouldn't succumb to the shock my 5lb hammer delivers. The very same hammer I use for splitting stone. Even when I changed out the old .270 barrel on my 1998 110 action which was all original. 1 good smack & it moved. The second smack got it to where I could hand job it the rest of the way.

I probably don't have to tell you what the edge of my barrel nut wrench looks like but, what the heck. As long as it still works a slightly rolled edge doesn't matter. It gives me a better target to aim for...

The last one I did I almost sheared the splines off my wheeler wrench. Tried heat but ended up taking a cutoff wheel and chisel to the nut. That thing was flat out stuck.

Okay, so if I cut-off the nut, and the barrel is also "seized" into the action, how will I ever remove the barrel once the nut is removed? Seems to me I'd be better-off removing the barrel with the nut attached.

Yes? No?

This is starting to look like you have a Monday built rifle.
I use a pair of big vice grips with a piece of thick leather (like a piece of old work shoe or belt) doubled up inside the jaw so it doesn't leave any teeth marks in the barrel. I've found the kind of vice grip with the curved jaw works best. You may have to squeeze & readjust it as the leather gets squashed down.

Maybe a day or two of soakage with a good penetrating oil might help?

Good luck.

Worth a shot for sure. Check the scope base screw hole for bead blast media if its SS.

FWIW the last one I did that was difficult, I set up the action wrench, barrel nut wrench, blocks of wood to hold things level and configured it on the floor so that when I smacked the barrel nut wrench with my large rubber mallet it would take the nut AND the barrel from the receiver at the same time. Then I did the soak, clean and file threads etc until I could get the nut off without cutting it off. It was a pain but it worked. I also replaced the action wrench receiver bolt with a bolt that has a 'shoulder' on the end of it...before the threads start so that there was some metal to help with leverage. Shade tree engineering comes through again :) kb

Following this one close!

I'm wanting to get my 110 threaded and put a brake on. Was afraid I'd be ending up in the same boat. Luckily, the old man(gunsmith) says I don't even need to take the barrel off. Said he has a rear entry tool that will secure everything in a jig for him to thread it.

Good luck getting it apart. PBlaster works wonders on stuck motor bolts, I'd give it a try for this too.

Whack the barrel nut wrench with a soft metal hammer like copper, lead or brass. A little shock will help get it off. If that fails, take it to someone with a lathe and cut into the nut a few thou in front of the lug face. That will unload the nut in no time at all and it should come off easy without a clamping load. The factory nuts are basically worthless anyway. But I would avoid trying to cut the nut in the axial direction. That is really for hacks..

Got it!

Did what Snow said and hugged the action wrench up against the lug. (Grade 5 bolt snapped also) Then I hit it with a 4 lb hammer (biggest Home depot had in stock) as Frank suggested. Took a few blows, but it worked.

Thanks, guys.