Boyds tacticool

I'm sure it's on here somewhere but how is the boyds tacticool for a short action? Thinking about getting one for my 243. How's the stiffness, does it hold up good with the coating over the wood? Was also looking at the b&c but this will be easier on the wallet. Thanks in advance

Try this search to help find your answer.

I have a tacticool on my 243 and love it.....

works well holding my model 12 223. Have never had a high-end tactical stock to compare it too, but for the money, I am happy. The black paint/coating is fairly durable. Nothing fancy.

Here is something I learned about the Tacticool, just behind the action screw holes are reinforcing metal plates it maybe there to prevent a heavy recoil calibre action from splitting the stock I am not sure. I discovered this when I was inletting the stock for some large pillars

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sa-shooter

Here is something I learned about the Tacticool, just behind the action screw holes are reinforcing metal plates it maybe there to prevent a heavy recoil calibre action from splitting the stock I am not sure. I discovered this when I was inletting the stock for some large pillars

---

Yeah there are a few cross pins in it. I still want to put an anchuntz rail in mine but can't make myself do it quite yet....

I also plan on inletting for a rail, I originally was going to mill the front portion and glue in a piece of 3"-wide maple to make it ride the front rest better but decided the rail would be more versitle as I can add a bench plate or bi-pod

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sa-shooter

I also plan on inletting for a rail, I originally was going to mill the front portion and glue in a piece of 3"-wide maple to make it ride the front rest better but decided the rail would be more versitle as I can add a bench plate or bi-pod

---

I just don't know if there is enough meat there for a standard rail. I have had thoughts of getting a wider piece of aluminum and milling the slot. The rail kit Brownell's has is nice since it is keyed and the adapters don't randomly fall out like my Choate stock.

The rail blank I have would be just flush with the surface after inletting and there should be just about .080 left of wood where the hollow pocket is located. I plan on gluing in a piece of oak the full length inside the hollow pocket just forward of the recoil lug that should be enough to reinforce that area. also my rail is 12" long so I plan on mounting both ends so it will be in solid wood just behind the end of the forearm tip and in front of the action screw.

Thanks for the replies