Muzzle Brake Installation, welded or threaded?

I have a 26" 308win moly barrel (.820"at the muzzle) that I would like to add a Muzzle Break. The break that I have decided on looks like a "T". The question I have is the "Brake" threaded on or are they welded? If I had a brake that was simply round it wouldn't matter how it was installed, but with the "T" shaped brake, it would need to be level when installed (head space being the overriding concern) I hope I'm making myself clear. I don't want to kick up dust and dirt when I fire a round out in the desert.... So how are they installed?
Thanks,
Desert ???

most are threaded on. some have solder to make them permenent also if there is a legal issue involved. there is one manufacture that uses a compression fitting.

OK, What kind of legal issue? The possibility of installing a suppressor, if the end of the barrel is threaded?

short rifle barrels where the brake is part of the 16" min length and some import military rifles for what ever dreamed up reason having to do with bayonets, flash suppressors, pistol grips that i don't completely understand.

So, if they are threaded on, is there a "stop nut" added behind the brake to ensure that it's installed level. (Just like the barrrel nut on the other end?) How does it look?

either the add a nut, shim washers, or they spend a little more time and machine it exactly right.

The machine the threads so it lines up. Like setting head spacing on a non nut gun such as a rem 700.

here is a link to one that is machined to line up. http://savageshooters.com/SavageForu...html#msg215435

the nuts are used on some AR15s where they may change it on occasion.

That means I have to install the barrel back on my action, headspace it and send the entire rifle to the gunsmith.... With a round brake I could simply send the barrel..... Oh well, another reason to buy another action, lol.....
Thanks,

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Blue Avenger

here is a link to one that is machined to line up. http://savageshooters.com/SavageForu...html#msg215435

the nuts are used on some AR15s where they may change it on occasion.

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Most AR's actually use crush washers that are somewhat cupped or conical and flatten out as you screw the brake or flash hider on so that they serve the purpose of a lock washer while also allowing you to "time" or align your muzzle brake. Others use peel washers that are made up or very thin layers that can be peeled off to achieve the correct thickness to time the brake. Peel washers can be a real pain. I don't know if anyone makes crush washers larger than the 1/2" threads on a typical AR, but Primary Weapons sells shims that can be added or subtracted to correct timing.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Deserthunter

That means I have to install the barrel back on my action, headspace it and send the entire rifle to the gunsmith.... With a round brake I could simply send the barrel..... Oh well, another reason to buy another action, lol.....
Thanks,

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Desterhunter, there is nothing wrong with round brakes, but if you shoot prone at all, they do throw up crap from the ground as the escaping gases are vented to the bottom of the brake too. This is why I prefer the side ported brakes, but they will need to be indexed to the barreled action.

I have a brake from JP rifles on my 300RUM and being cheap whe \n I ordered the barrel I had devin sinarms thread the barrel back the reccommended distance and installed the brake myself just ground the back of the brake down ubtil I had the right fit ports to the side not as precise a fit a a gunsmith bi=ut it works not to tight then used medium strength locktite so should be able to remove it and put it on a different rifle haven't tried that yet but did save install cost Fred

If you put an index mark on the bottom center of your barrel , the smith can index the brake off that mark. you then just put the barrel back on using that mark. this will only work if you use the same action every time.

Muzzle brakes and flash hiders are indexed right-side up in the same way that pistol and most rifle barrels are indexed so that the sights come out on top.

First the new muzzle brake is screwed on the end of the barrel and tightened. - It almost never comes out right, but that is no problem.

Then the 'smith measures the angle of the brake to get the number of degrees it must rotate in order to line up perfectly.

He then uses a formula which tells him how many thousandths of an inch of materiel must be removed from the rear of the brake in order to make it index properly when tightened.

Then materiel is removed either from the back of the brake, or from the shoulder behind the threads on the barrel. Usually, they take all but the last thousandth or so, so that they can 'sneak up' on perfection.

Then they screw on the perfectly indexed brake and call it a job well done.

That's how I do it, anyway. Compression washers make it easier, but will only compensate for few degrees of misalignment.

Easily done, and to "level" the brake for it's design simply use a crush washer as Knight_Dive states. The new muzzle brakes on Savage rifles that have them use crush washers.