Need your opinion/input on components I just got (primers&powder)

Hey all! I have finally made it to my local shooting range today (fist time in 4 months..) and, of course, visited the reloading store nearby. Ended up getting some stuff that I haven't done any research into which is something I rarely do but the current availability which still lacks around here plus the price got the worst of me:-)

The primers I got are "Tula" brand and are made in mother Russia, small rifle. My question or actually two are: 1. How hot are they if anybody here played with those? I have tried a few US brands and am currently using Winchester ones for the most part. Winchester primers are among the hottest for a given type from what I have gathered or in other words they have higher content of aluminum/magnesium or whatever it is which provides more heat and helps with ignition of ball powders which I mostly use. Not sure how true that is but that's my understanding at least. How do Tula primers compare with Winchies in that respect? Number 2, how hard is the cup on the russian ones? I 'm used to Winchesters and kinda know what to look for as far as pressure signs. Winchester cups are on the soft side if I 'm correct. How would Tula compare cup hardness wise to them? Primers were $28 for 1K which is about 12 bucks less than the run of the mill US primers and BR type being even more expensive around here.

The powder I got is Alliant Power Pro 2000 MR. I saw it first when the store just opened at 10 AM and asked a salesperson about it and he said it should work with heavier bullets in .223 which I actually plan on loading. I also tried to find it in my burning chart that is in my glove box at all times but to no avail - it wasn't there. I didn't buy it then and went to the range. By accident or providence the guy next to me was shooting a .223 as well with reloaded ammo. I asked him if he tried that particular one. He smiled, went to the table and showed me two 50 rnd boxes loaded with that exact powder and said he quite liked it. I immediately excused myself, went to the store and got two pounds which is a limit for a type of powder that can be purchased per day over there. After shooting more next to him and checking out his results I went to the store again to ask to put a couple more pounds for me on layaway for a few days, thankfully they do it, thinking I would research more and make somewhat more informed decision whether to get more of it. The sales guy to my surprise asked if I wanted it now. Ehhh, yea why not came out of my mouth in return, especially seeing that there were only about 15 lb left from the morning. So at the end of the day I have four cans of stuff I don't know much about at all. Just tried to google it a bit and haven't gotten exactly what I was looking for - load data for 223 with medium weight bullets. Got several references but for 308.. Is that really slow burning powder if used with a 223 case? Where is it in the burn chart in relation to say Win 748 that I load most of combinations for my 223 guns? The store clerk said he wasn't sure but thought it was even slower than 748. Alliant website is a bit confusing to navigate and not much info to begin with. The powder seems relatively new, mabe 3 years on the market or so and that may be the reason. The cost of a pound can was $24 and change which is on the cheap side for a rifle powder around here. I 've got some W748 in the last couple of months and had to shell out $28 per pound. May be things are simply returning back to normal more or less. Sorry for the long rant and thanks for the responses in advance!

As far as the primers go, I have no idea, never used them.

In the 2000-MR, I love the stuff, but like you've seen, I've inly used it in my .308. However, I have had great results with it. Pushing a 175gr Sierra MatchKing around 2700fps, which is humming pretty good. One thing I did notice though using this powder, is it does like to be pushed hot. Like for example, on the Alliant website, the max for a 175gr SMK is 47.7gr. The load that I found that was most accurate in MY rifle was 47.5.

I do plan on using it in my .223, but haven't had a chance to do the workup yet for it between competitions. Just make sure you start low and workup with it, and I think you'll like it. YMMV though.

I haven't used the powder but Tula or Wolf primers are hard to beat for consistency in cartridges of 30-06 capacity and less. The cup is a little harder and with most brass they seat a little harder but many have seen both spread and SD drop with them. YMMV

Many great shooters use them and many including myself would love to acquire some to find out why(like earl said).

FWIW, my experience with MR2000 wasn't that good. I'm shooting a Shilen Select Match 26" 1/7 .223 Wylde with Berger 80gr VLD.
The MR2000 wasn't bad, but I knew this rifle should shoot better. I grabbed some varget and my groups tightened up immediately.
With the Varget & VLD's seated to the lands, I've gotten a best 5 shot group of .180". The MR2000 was .750 at best.
WSR or Rem 7 1/2 primers. Just my experience.

So have you tried the Tula primers yet? I have found them to be somewhat oversized tight and very hard to seat. A true exercise in frustration with a hand priming unit.
Just my .02 and wondering if you have experienced the same.

that's all I use Jeep. I hand prime with RCBS hand priming tool. Except for when I don't get all the crimp out of my LC brass I don't have a problem. You just have to squeeze a little harder and make sure they seat good. That's with both large and small primers.

During the "great component shortage" (which is now the "great powder shortage") I scored some Tula large and small rifle magnum primers as SHTF back-up primers. I was told they could be used in place of regular primers with no ill effect--though I didn't get to try that out since regular primers are once again back on the market. But I wonder.

the only difference is cup thickness. Primer compound is the same in both magnum and standard.

[QUOTE=earl39;214333]thanks for that.