Is there a way to tune up the accutrigger?

I have the Sav 2, actually 3 of them but I like the safety function of the Accutrigger, its there a way to tune it or someone I can send the trigger to to get tuned? I would like to get the adjustability of the red blade target accutrigger.

You can get a lot of info with a search. In short polish the sear and trigger engagement with very fine stone. Lighten safety blade spring by either replacing or cutting 1/2 coil until light enough; I usually take off 3 total coils. Same for trigger or you can order light accu target spring from Jim at NSS.

Changing the springs, and use a Dremel rubberized polishing/grinding stone to polish and remove all the metal burrs that might be present. Works like a champ. I like the results so much, the Accutrigger is the only trigger I use now.

DK

Thanks for the feedback gents, I know if I tried to do the tuning myself I would screw it up. I just got off the phone with Larry Racine, he thinks he could get the pull down to a pound or so and polish it up to break cleanly, this is all I want a pound to a pound and a half with a clean break and the accutrigger function. I will mail it out to him tomorrow.

Can you guys point out to a thread somewhere with more details? the only one I found so far is for the rimfire version. I want to tune mine up. I ordered today the replacement spring so that might help but I know there is more that can be done to it.

Nandy don't you live in Charlotte; I'll help you.

Yes, I do live in charlotte and I appreciate the help. I generally do my own "gunsmiting" stuff but like to have a little of documentation to follow. The gun is taken apart right now as I am waiting for parts including the new spring but I am sure there stuff that I can do in the mean time. Thanks!

Subscribed, I was looking for it too and I couldn't find it.

I got the new spring and I can get the trigger down to 1.5 lbs but if I use the sear with the top release it goes up to 2 lbs. The only (hing I canes see different is that the top release sear is flat where the bottom release sear does have a notch in the middle that I thinks is there to shorten the amount of area that presses against the trigger. I have polish that top release sear to a mirror and even with no trigger spring pressure the trigger still won't go under 2 lbs. What else should I polish or do to reduce the weigth?

Did you replace or cut coils from the safety blade spring?

I took the blade off just for testing and I get the same weight results. The blade on its own measures 8oz.

Sounds like that is the best you can get with the current angle of sear to trigger engagement. Risky to remove more metal to "improve" the angle; maybe someone else has a better idea.

A target AT spring kit?

it has a target spring. I can remove the sear and blade spring and manually set the trigger and I still get that same measurement. The sear is polished to a shine. I did not mess much in the trigger surface other than a few passes. I have two sear, the original one which will give me 1.5 pounds and the side release one which will be right under 2 lbs.. I will check the 2 sears again, I might try to cut the top release sear just like the original sear is.

1st - I have to say it
stand advised -as with any firearm mod- work
this can kill you or someone else if you screw it up
dont even try it if you dont feel completly comfortable with doing it
and if you do - this or any other mod to any firearm
PLEASE ---------------
bump slap test it -slam bolt foward harder than normal before using it
to make sure the firing pin stays in cocked position

one difference in LE accu triggers , Target accutriggers ,and regular accu triggers is the springs
Ive heard it said the sear is also differnt on Target models -
but there is for sure a difference in the wieght of the springs

if you are a gunsmith -Savage will sell you these springs
if your not
you can still safely & easily mod the existing springs
to have a SAFE 1lb pull weight
you could even go less or more depending on preference

so here is how I mod the REGULAR accu trigger to about 1lb pull wieght -

remove rear spring -sear spring-
then move blade spring to rear position
it will be upside down from original position
the bottom of spring is smaller than the hole the original rear spring threaded into - & wont thread into it
it will simply set in the hole - and work fine

the top of the spring will work as is
OR
you can bend the tip of it up to fit into the hole in the receiver
this is not completly necessary -as it is held in place by spring tension
it will work fine without this step
I do it because I can
it takes 2 pair of needle nose &a lot of pateince
just bend top coil till it looks like original or close to it

next take a ink pen spring and replace the foward or blade spring
I use about a 1/2 of a ink pen spring
all this spring needs to do is return the blade to its foward position-
this spring also adds to the total pull weight

the top coil or two of it can be slid over the little bump
on the blade with your fingernail or a small screw diver
just bend the tip of the bottom coil down
all it has to do is stay in the hole

you could just make a new rear spring
but the reason I use the blade spring instead of making a new sear spring
is - the blade spring is a 1 lb spring- same weight spring as LE -law enforcment model- accutriggers use in the rear position
and because whatever spring is used in front position also adds to the total pull weight
the below (after) pics show one I used 2 ink pen springs on for a repeatable 8oz pull
in my opinion the accutrigger is the SAFEST - most USER FREINDLY -trigger out there
thats why we are seeing very simular trigger design on other makes
were also seeing barrel nuts & floating bolt heads on several other makes
imitation is most sincere form of flattery
I like and use all makes of firearms
but only accurate ones are interesting enough to use
the others are just nice to look at --collectables
Savage Stevens firarms are accurate by design
and are very user freindly to adjust and modify
change caliber ect,........


before mod
http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/...rem/act005.jpg
http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/...rem/act008.jpg

http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/...rem/act006.jpg
after
http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/...rem/act002.jpg
http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/...rem/act007.jpg
http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/...rem/act004.jpg
http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/...rem/act003.jpg
http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/...rem/fcp009.jpg

Excellent post!!! Thank you very much...

Save Willoughby's post on this; it's a good one! I remember there was a good post about changing the springs but didn't remember where.

Subscribed.

ttt

and this does work very well in my experience with this procedure
Thanks for posting

I still use the 2 ink pen springs set up for my long range bench rest rifles, but on my hunting rifles I prefer moving the blade spring to the sear spring position which gives me a 1.5-2lb pull

Willoughby,
You get enough spring tension with a ball point spring in the rear sear position to allow the the sear to reset?
I moved the blade to the rear on one AccuTrigger and it would not consistently set the sear so i did have to buy a Varmint Accutrigger spring
but all the rest have worked flawlessly.

i did the method of putting some valve grinding compound on the sear surfaces and dry firing the trigger about 100 times. worked like a charm. got the pull weight down to about 10 to 12 ozs. However, 8 months later, i now have to increase the spring pressure on the sear or the trigger will lock up. taking off that hardened outer layer of steel probably means this trigger's life is probably going be limited. i was ok doing this because this is a bench only gun, and i was willing to take the chance at having to replace the trigger in the long run. next time, instead of the grinding compound, i will just polish the sear surfaces and accept the higher pull weight.

Subscribed