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Hi,
I have an accustock, the barrel is .75" at the muzzle with not much taper to the chamber.
Looking at a heavy palma contour barrel (pac nor) which is .925" at the muzzle, no taper to the chamber.
Kind of alot of material to remove for what feels like rubberized plastic. Anyone ever open up a barrel this much? Thanks!
What do you have to loose?
An accustock, factory fit for a 338 lapua with DBM.
Since the only thing you are modifying is the forend im not sure what the concern is. Not trying to be sarchastic or rude, Just wanting to clarify your concerns. You need 3/32 to come off of each side. Since the barrel is round and the channel is hollow with the exception of the "cap" area, and the top edge stock removal should be minor. You need about 3/32 to come off of each side . The alluminum fram will not be compromised in my opinion.
I have a short action accustock and have relieved a synthetic DBM non accustock LA for a 1" barrel. I cant see any issues with the exception that the muzzle end of the stock begins to get thin on the sides and the barrel looks a little large for the style of stock.
I believe you when you say you aren't being sarcastic or rude, and do value your input. I've just never tried to take down the rubberized plastic. I know if I sand something like a limbsaver, it's a disaster aesthetically. Though I know the plastics are not even CLOSE to the same. Still, it's not like the accustock is rigid plastic (fully). Just never heard of someone taking it down.Quote:
Originally Posted by stangfish
So you've taken the non accustock to 1" (for 1" barrel), and you believe the AL frame wont be compromised opening up to a .925 barrel. Is that based on observations you've made with the accustock? Or is that just based on the idea that non accustocks or wood stocks don't have the AL rib at all? That the presence of SOME AL is more advantageous than wood or non accustock synthetic?
You can disregard post #5, I have a different question instead. Thanks :)
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well, as I'm looking at the photos, the aluminum channel does not rise to meet the barrel, does it.
So when you say the only relief needed is the top edge of the stock, you aren't kidding are you.
And it's easy to cleanly sand the rubbery plastic?
NopeQuote:
well, as I'm looking at the photos, the aluminum channel does not rise to meet the barrel, does it.
Nope. You will need to open up the cap end but again...easy as a hot knife in butter.Quote:
So when you say the only relief needed is the top edge of the stock, you aren't kidding are you.
I think you will be able to come up with a good finish. Wet sanding with some 600 may do it although I have never found a reason to.Quote:
And it's easy to cleanly sand the rubbery plastic?
Very cool. Thank you.
I just fit a 26" Bartlein Heavy Palma barrel to my .260 Remington model 11 w/ Accustock and it took about 1/2 hour of sanding to fit the barreled action into the stock. The first 10 rounds were 1/2 MOA at 100 yards with no load development yet.
I have a 22" Douglas XX SS Air Gaged barrel to sell now.....
If it is a 260 I'm interested
Take it to the classifieds.
Awesome. I'd be happy with quadruple the sanding time and quadruple the accuracy. not kidding.Quote:
Originally Posted by derrelw
My factory sporter barrel was very accurate but after 3 shots it had to cool for a long while, ok for hunting only really. That's why I've gone the heavy barrel route on all of my rifles that do double duty.Quote:
Originally Posted by whiterabbit
I took a factory 300 sav accustock and opened it up to 358 win. No problems. Did the bulk removal with a dremel and finished it with sand paper.
Thats freaking funny!!!!!!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by barthowes
http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...Hunter-is-born.
Maybe a little extreme but you could put any barrel on my accustock. Best tool i have for this is my cordless trim saw.