Bedding a Model 10 Factory Stock

I want bed the existing factory stock on my savage 10. I have done quite a bit of research and understand the process. The Stress-Free Pillar Bedding, Richard Franklin's Step-by-Step Guide to Pillar Bedding site was very informative. Additionally, I have watched every video on it that I have been able to find.

I think I am pretty clear about where and how to apple the tape, release agent, avoiding mechanical lock, and not bedding behind the rear action bolt on my particular weapon.

The only problem I have is understanding how to bed a stock with existing pillars. The factory stock has steel pillars and I do not want to change them out.

My idea is to buy some long screws to temporally replace the action screws, and that they will act as guides to slide down into the existing pillars. Obviously, I would want to liberally apply release agent to the screws and inside diameter of the pillars. But, I am worried about the release agent adhering sufficiently to the outside of the screws and the inside of the pillars in the process pushing them through once the bedding agent is applied.

Does anyone have any thoughts about this?

Thanks

you're on the right track. I'd get longer screws cut the heads off. Tape the body of the screw from where it meets the action till it exits the stock and make sure the action will still drop into the stock. Coat those screws with release agent including the taped area and bed as instructed. After bedding is cured remove the screws before removing the action from the stock. I've done several of these with good success. Make sure you sure plenty of release agent and get everywhere the bedding material may or will get. you can run a drill bit up thru the screw holes when the action is out to open back up the pillars. I do this with just a bit no drill.
Follow Richard Franklin's instructions and everything will come out great.

jim

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Jim

It went pretty well. Thanks for the tip about putting the tape around the temporary action screws. I think that was crucial. Not only did this help block most of the bedding from the holes, but it also helped center the barrel. I used that wide blue painting masking tape. I wrapped them large and then used an Exacto knife to cut off thin strips until I got them to the right diameter.

I bought some 1/4" wood doweling and wrapped that with tape also until it stuck fairly firmly in the holes. I used the doweling as a temporary dam to keep excessive bedding material from running into and then out of the bottom of the holes during the application process. When I was ready to place the barrel into the stock I pulled the dowels and very little bedding flowed into the holes.

I am glad that I put release agent--I used neutral shoe polish--on and in EVERYTHING! The hardened bedding just flicks right off. I am also glad that I went long on using clay in every void; especially in the trigger area. I think it would have been messy if I had not.

I think the only thing that I would do differently next time is in regard to the electrical tape which I used to hold the barrel in the stock during curing. Next time, I will apply each strip of tape in the opposite direction of one another. I realized in the middle of that operation that wrapping each strip of tape in the same direction was incurring some torsional stress in the direction that I was pulling. I put several wraps in the opposite direction when I thought of it. While this stress may be negligible, I would prefer to eliminate it as a variable. Also, the tape around the temporary action bolts helped keep it centered.

Now is clean up time. I think it is going to be as much work as the rest of the job.

Thanks again