Question; Any reason not to slot a Go-gauge?
Was thinking about making a slot in my Go-gauge so I wouldn't have to remove the ejector plunger. Can you think of any reason why not? (I can't as yet)
RF
Printable View
Question; Any reason not to slot a Go-gauge?
Was thinking about making a slot in my Go-gauge so I wouldn't have to remove the ejector plunger. Can you think of any reason why not? (I can't as yet)
RF
No reason to remove the ejector so why even bother cutting a slot in the gauge?
If the ejector is in a slot, you might even bend it while camming the bolt. Like trapp said, don't remove the ejector and don't make a slot.
I hope I have my terms straight, but I thought the point of dissembling the bolt for barrel swaps was to remove the ejector. The outward pressure the ejector puts on the gauge impedes the feel on turning in the barrel and setting head-space?
If you turn the barrel tight against the gauge there's no need to "feel" anything but a hard stop. I use a "set-to" gauge a couple thousandths longer than a go gauge and just turn the barrel solid against it. No problems.
Now if you were using a fired case to set headspace the compressability of the brass may cause problems with this technique.
If I may...What is a set to gauge? I am wiating for my first switch barrel to arrive and planned on using a sized piece of brass to set the headspace. Am I going to run into problems here? Do I need to remove the ejector?
This is a wildcat cartridge (6.5 CSS or Grendel) and go-no go gauges are not readily available. Which iss why I planned on using the brass.
Thanks
Using a sized piece of brass is the only way to go in my opinion. If someone is worried about compressing the brass you probably should not be doing this anyways. I mean these are the same type that twist off 1/4" bolts cause they don't know the difference in torque limits between 1/4" and 1 1/4". Barrel swapping is not black magic and as long as you use common sense everything will be fine.
If you compress the brass you doing it wrong anyway. The bolt should close or stop on a gage or case with NORMAL pressure. Once its out of room, its out of room. Anything more and your just crushing the snot out of something.Quote:
Originally Posted by spaniel
When you bottom the barrel on a case or gage the extractor should jump the ram and the ejector retract with little effort, if not....there are other problems. After bottoming the barrel the case or gage should extract, if not the extractor didn't jump the rim.
When using brass you need to be sure the case body isn't larger than the chamber. If it is it will stop the case forward travel instead of the shoulder. Its why gages are always smaller in diameter, so the body doesn't come play setting or checking headspace. They're a length measuring tool only.
BTW, none of my gages ,the ones I bought or made are slotted, they only have a relief hole for the firing pin...just in case.
If your using brass, new, once fired, resized or whatever it best to verify things are good to go. The easiest and cheapest way is using Plastigage. Put a piece on the shoulder, chamber the case then measure. It will tell you exactly what you have.
Give Dave Kiff ( PTG) a call.Quote:
This is a wildcat cartridge (6.5 CSS or Grendel) and go-no go gauges are not readily available.
Bill
Thanks Bill...I realize PT&G does make gauges. All this information is very much appreciated. Being new to switch barrel concept it's daunting considering the "possible" outcome if done wrong. That is why "us" first timers venture with trepidation, relying on sage advise from those who have gone before. Kinda like ones first time in combat....look to the veterans.
Thanks for the blanket and simply rude mischaracterization of me. As you stated it is your OPINION, and mine is different. No need to get personal about it.Quote:
Originally Posted by kslefty
A couple different people I know who have been playing this game for quite some time informed me that they experienced too much variation for their comfort when using brass to set headspace. With the extractor in you will have to introduce some (small) amount of pressure to force the extractor in. Is it enough to cause a problem with brass? I don't know but they do tell you to take it out so there has to be some rationale for it. Personally I just turn the barrel back until it stops and call it good, and it worked fine.
Instead they either took a go gauge and added a piece of scotch tape to the back or carefully ground some off a no-go gauge. This creates a set-to gauge that sets headspace within acceptable limits. I made mine by grinding a couple thousandths from a no-go gauge and it has worked well. If you have a wildcat and cannot get gauges, well, you don't have much of an option but to use brass unless you found a custom (and probably expensive) gauge.
Take the ejector out. It takes 30 seconds to come out and 30 seconds to put back in.
Spaniel, I was not even directing my post at any one post on this thread. Just stating the obvious which sometimes gets lost cause people start playing the scaremonger card. I do not know anything about you but I bet you do know the type of people I referred to.
+1 What he said.Quote:
Originally Posted by steveinwv
That's why they make guages. If cases were all that accurate, I'm sure the factories would use brass and save the $$$ for the guages. In your case it's understandable and pretty much the only way to go.
Remove the ejector, and just add something to the base of the case that is .002" thick (or the plastiguage on the shoulder area) and you should be good to go.
Both times I have done this, I have removed the Ejector. The first time I also removed the extractor because the Forester gauge instructions said too. What I do is set the head-space, make sure it closes OK. Add .001 shim under rim and should be tight to close. Add a second shim and not close at all. Never forcing. Then I'm satisfied with the head-spacing.
I have come close to loosing parts both times so I started thinking about drilling and slotting the gauge so I could eliminate loosing parts.
Both were on Marlin XL7's.
RF