I got a barrel and want to duracoat to match the Axis action. The gunshop does the coating for $50. I see the kits at Brownells are $30 and up. Anyone used the duracoat kit from Brownells?
RSG
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I got a barrel and want to duracoat to match the Axis action. The gunshop does the coating for $50. I see the kits at Brownells are $30 and up. Anyone used the duracoat kit from Brownells?
RSG
Don't bother - you will not get good reslt (and that in in no way a reflection on Brownells or Lauer products). The kit has a way-under-powered can of compressed gas and your spray results will be poor. Either pay the extra $20 to the shop (and that's a good price BTW), or invest in spray equipment (not real expensive -but way more than $20) - or just leave it as is...
PS - if you do any duracoating yourself, take very seriously the advice of those of us who do this alot - prep is everything to the success of the job (that, and the right tools).
If you have a harbor freight store near you ,buy an air brush for $5 , use the tire valve adapter ,thats another $2 .
Thi set up will work if you have a car and harbor freight store. Sorry
No brag , just fact
Forgot to add if you use the airbrush ,you do not need the kit ,you just need the paint and hardner . Try gunkote products very easy and durable . Available at midway & brownells
No brag , just fact.
I shoot at 60psi,but I also rarely thin the product too. I'm sure a tire (say ~32psi at start anyway) works, but I just don't want to do it on low pressure nor do I trust the quality of the gas (N2?) in the tire. Just my opinion....Quote:
Originally Posted by Gmac5
But - a better solution that the kit!
The product you buy Gunkote in 4 or 6 oz cans is ready to shoot , and use at low 25 to35 lbs . I agree a small compressor would be better but i have done airbrushing much larger than would be needed for a barreled action using nothing but a car size spare barrel ,more times than i care to admit. Its amazing what can be done when you have to. I got the idea 20 plus years ago while following the instructions in the pasche proff. Airbrush kit . OK so it wasnt my idea ,I was just following the directions.
No brag, just fact
Pay the gunshop $50 and get it done right. That is unless you plan to do several guns and have an air compressor. Then Harbor freight has what you'll need. Prep is key to a durable job with these products. They recommend you sand blast the metal with 120 grit alumminum oxide before applying duracoat or GunKote for best results. If you don't prep and get the metal oil free these products with not cure properly, bubble and peel off.
True dat... +1Quote:
Originally Posted by jpdown
$50 is a very good deal to have it done proff. If you only plan on doing the one rifle , i would agree with both of the others. If however you enjoy saying I did it ,then by all means try it yourself . Do not rush it ,if you do it yourself.
No brag,just fact
I've used the Duracoat Shake & Spray kits several times now; they actually do work very well provided you hold the sprayer level. The 4 ounces of duracoat that come with the kit is enough to cover 3-4 long guns.
I'm not a fan of Duracoat...it's not very durable at all compared to KG Gunkote aka Norrell's. It's just gloried Sherwin Williams paint. You are better off using Aervoe paint.
http://aervoe.com/paints_coatings/home.php
I go to Walmart/Home depot and find the cheapest flat spray paints I can find. All flat paints--no matter how fancy they are--achieve flatness by having reduced film binders (which give them strength) and solvents/inert substances which break up the surface--that's what makes a paint look flat by refracting light. I then put two coats of spray satin polyurathane over the spray paint to provide the film hardener--not quite flat but no more glossy than the stock mossy oak cammo jobs I see on the production rifles. I don't mess with the barrel--that would require some fancy work to get a really durable binding finish and I just cammo wrap it if I'm going out in the woods. I'm a artist/painter so I'm not afraid to get creative--the world of cammo effects goes way beyond just spray paint.
Ive been using Duracoat for several years. Patients is the most important part, never get in a hurry! Take your time to throughly clean and degrease. Mix it just as the instructions say, adding more hardner "will not" make it cure faster. I like to leave it hanging to cure atleast 3 or 4 days before reassembly. The longer its on the gun the harder it gets. Ive got a couple thats had Duracoat on them for about 5 years now, Ive tested them with paint stripper and all it does is sit there and bubble on the surface. It wont peel off or scrach off, if you want to get it off you have to media blast it (or sand it off). The only finish Ive ever worked with that is tougher or more durable is Cerakote. The shake and spray kits do work, Ive tried a couple of them, but it is hard to get a even flat spray like you get with an airbrush, and you have to watch out for runs because the spray can be inconsistant. But if its a utility gun your going to have in the woods and you just want a good protective finish that you can do yourself the shake and spray kits will work just fine.
Thanks to all for your input on this. I am leaning to the gunshop for the coating.
Thanks again
RSG
Do you have the contact info of the shop that you're looking to go through? I think it's cost effective for me to mail the gun to him to do the finish. Any info is much appreciated.