Tell me how to setup this rifle for coyote/varmint.

Alright, here we go. I just purchased a savage 16 in 243. My intentions are to use this for a coyote/varmint gun. I know that stainless would probably not be the first choice for a predator gun, but I absolutely could not pass up this deal so it is what I have. I need ANY and ALL advice on how to set this rifle up as far as camo pattern, scope, paint things (or not). I know that I am going to change the stock, so I might as well get it in a camo pattern that works or a plain one to paint, right? What power of scope and what type of reticle works good for fast target acquistion? This gun will be used for daytime hunts as that is all that is legal where I live. I plan on hunting a lot of big pastures/fields and pipeline right-of-ways. Think of this gun as if it were yours and how you would want it set up. If you can think of ANYTHING that would be considered USEFUL information of ANY kind, then please throw it at me. Thanks in advance!

Scope wise I like 4x12x40 or 4x14x40. I keep it set at lowest power for those fast, close encounters.Easier to dial if further away then dail down when they are running in you lap! I like heavy duplex with fine crosshairs! Paint the ss, coyote can see very very well and that glare will kill you!!

I agree with 29va......scopes in the 12-14 power range on the top end are about perfect. The particular reticle, in my opinion, is really a personal preference. I haven't used it much, but I do like the Nikon coyote special with the circles. I also like the mil-dot style but I use that on my longer range 'yote killer.

If you know your going to get a new stock, get a camo one. Paint the barreled action in a flat, non-reflective color.....use duracoat or something similar.

When it comes to coyotes, shiny is BAD!!!!

Okay, so if I paint the stainless steel barrel and action then how do I go about it? I have never done this before. I also just ran across a deal on a scope and I plan on painting it and the rings and bases. Any tips on painting them?

I've only used duracoat and have had very good results. Others here have used cerakote and others with success.

The biggest part of doing any painting is the prep work! Not sure where you are, but there are places that will do whatever you want. There is a list on duracoat's website.

www.lauerweaponry.com

Here's my long range rig, a 1:8 twist 22-6mm. The action and stock are both painted with duracoat. It's really not hard at all.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...h_P1010319.jpg

Yoyu can hit the entire gun with krylon flat camo paints.
Scope...stated above 4-12 or 4-16 power. I like mildot scopes over anything else on all my guns.
Paint the stock thats on it and you are good to go & roll coyotes.

Someone else suggested Krylon and said that it could also be removed, which was appealing to me. I was also told that I should stick with browns, tans, and blacks, for colors and to stay away from a lot of greens due to the way canine vision works. Any opinions on that?

Imho I would clean a degrease rifle use self etching krylon auto primer let flash in-between light coats with 3-4coats of primer use krylon flat camo colors and finish with a flat clear. Scope go with something 4-12ish like others have stated I like 4-16 you get 4x power mag and get a real scope not a predator nikon scope try load development with a 3" guess ring for a cross hair yea it's a waste of money imo bushnell makes a good cheap scope for the money with an illuminated reticle in the 4-16 power range being that your rigs in 243 if you can find a good deal on a 6-24 don't be afraid of it 6 power works ok in the woods and will let you target shoot and take the long shots when necessary I'd much rather go bear hunting and run across a rabbit then the other way around..

quickkillqught6---
You say "clean and degrease rifle use self etching krylon auto primer let flash in-between light coats". What do you mean by "let flash in-between light coats"?

I say forgot the paint, use the leg wrap material you can find in a pet store.

http://handirifle.com/images/223UV/223UV_onrest.jpg

This is one I did. The wrap stick only to itself, leaves no residue and you can get it in tons of colors or camo from some gun supply shops.

then if you want to change it later, just un wrap it, no sticky mess.

When painting anything the paint has a "flash time" this is referred to as the time in between coats that it takes for the previous coat to dry enough to adhear to the material you're painting. Should say on can wait x-amount of time between coats that's the flash time

handirifle---
Your pic did not post up? The wrap is a good idea. I have considered that, but I was worried about that stuff snagging on brush as I walked with it and I did not know if it would stay tightly wrapped.

quickkillaught6---
Thanks for explaining. Makes sense.

Thanks guys!

So what would be a good product to use to "clean and degrease" the rifle?

Birchwood-Casey Gun Scrubber aerosol. Or cheap brake cleaner from the auto parts store. I believe they are pretty much the same stuff. Keep it off your stock. And don't forget to re-oil what you don't paint, or it will rust. Be careful, this stuff is extremely flammable; I'd use it outside if possible.

Keep it simple ?

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/205...bow-tape-vinyl

shovelheadave---
That is definitely simple, quick, and easy. Thanks.

AS a 25 year coyote hunter I have learned how wily coyotes are. They rely on their noses more than anything. I would probably wrap the gun but that is about all. If you are thinking of 300 plus yard shots you obviously have a little wiggle room. Carry a mouth call and keep hidden while blowing it. When conditions are right they will come in on the run, this winter the conditions are bad compared to most, no extended cold snaps or snowfall therefore they are not very hungry.

scope- i wouldn't go with anything less than a 14 power. 40mm obj. is good but i think 50 is better. camo- i like to dura coat things a a nice neutral color (coyote tan, light gray etc.) then as the weather changes i wrap the rig with MARPAT tape. it's made by mcnett. its like a heavy duty self cling ace bandage. very easy to use, it streches over odd shapes neatly. reusable and doesn't leave any residue at all. I cut strips of it to put on scope between the rings and all the small odd shape spots. when you want change patterns just unwrap it and put it back on the roll you took it off of for next time. i think there is 12 different colors to choose from, it's $10-$12 a roll.

I appreciate all of the info. I think that I am leaning towards a Duracoat or a Cerakote job on the gun, but that may have to wait until I can locate someone to do it for me. I have no experience with it and from what I have read, it needs to be applied correctly or it most likely will not last like it is supposed to. I am thinking that I may use the MARPAT tape that scott597 suggested until I can get the gun painted. As far as the scope goes, I have come across a good deal on a Redfield Revolution 4-12x40 Accurange Reticle scope. I may be wrong, but I think that the Accurange Reticle will help with fast target acquistion. The variable power should be enough, at least to start with. I will be using that scope on a 22-250 that I ran across (a SWEEEET deal that I couldn't pass up) instead of the 243. I plan on putting a Bushnell 4200 Elite 6-24x40 on the 243. Hopefully by doing this, I will have a back up gun to use while I am haveing work done to the other gun. Also, with the 2 different scopes I will have a gun to use where some really long shots are possible while the other should be okay for closer shots. The 22-250 is a wood stock with a blue barrel, so I think that some of the MARPAT wrap should take care of that one for now.
If you think that I am thinking right, or wrong, on my ideas of setting these up then please let me know. I have never even hunted coyotes before, so any extra info or advice is always appreciated. I know that some of this will have to learned by experience, but I always try to get the advantage and eliminate alot of wasted time and effort by finding out what experienced hunters' opinions are. So please keep all the info coming my way. I am listening. Thanks again for all the help!

Agreed with kslefty a coyote lives by his nose not his eyes.

What is the range you plan on taking shots at? What kind of land will you be hunting on? Is it heavy wooded area or is it out in the open fields?

I use a 3-9 power scope on my AR with a SS barrel and not once have I ever needed more power on the scope nor have I ever felt the SS barrel busted me. I live in the eastern plains of CO where you can see for miles.

We plan on hunting pastures with surrounding woods and thickets. We will also hunt clearcuts and pipeline/electric right of ways which will all be surronded by heavy woods and thickets too. We should have the opportunity for shots ranging from 100-500+ yards. The 6-24x40 may be too much scope, I just ended up with it in a gun deal and thought I would try it. I may put it back and use the 4.5-14x42 Pentax on it instead.

Both my coyote rifles have 6-24x50mm or 6-25x56mm scopes with MilDot reticles. I don't believe I have ever used them below 12x on coyotes.

Wind is your friend if it's not too high and swirling. Put a gun sock/sleeve over barrel, fore end and front of scope to stop reflection or paint as you mentioned and buy a kill flash/sunshade for the Obj. lens. Buy a bipod that is 25-29" extended so you can sit/kneel and shoot.

When you can shoot at any target at a distance, record the bullet drop in inches from where your point of aim was, then measure the actual drop in inches on the target and the two numbers agree, you are good to shoot at that range with 110% confidence. Example shoot at a 3" bull @ 390 yds, 21" drop, walk to target and measure the actual bullet drop. If it is actually 21" you are good to shoot out to that distance.



Learn your "true" trajectory both Elev and Windage(not just what JBM calc says) so you can dial in your come-ups if you have time or quickly aquire using mils(mildot) holdover. Find out exactly how much your scope moves on each click of elev. and windage. It usually won't be what the manufacturer says unless it is a US Op or NF.

I say forget the paint. One major rule in yote hunting is not to set up facing the sun anyway. Facing the sun... yor scope will put off more of a glare than that barrel. That way you don't end up regretting it later. Also I wouldn't go crazy on a huge power scope. Ninety percent of the time a yote is going to come out closer than you want him too and right where you didn't expect him anyways.