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I have a older model 10 predator hunter in 22-250 that I have only shot about 20 rounds through. I took it out today to sight it in again and I had problems getting the gun to fire. Tuned out the rear buffer was moving and not letting the bolt close the entire way.
Anyone else ever have this problem?
Any idea on how to fix It?
Hmmmm, possibly the detent ball is froze up and needs lubed?
Also check the rear bolt, make sure it’s tight.
I’m having a hard time picturing how the rear baffle is causing the bolt to not close entirely. Does it do the same thing on an empty chamber?
Empty or loaded and not every time. When it does happen I open the bolt and rotate the baffle a little and close the bolt again. I'm assuming the bolt isn't closeing because you can't pull the trigger.
Is this an accutrigger rifle? Possibly it’s not the baffle causing woes, maybe the trigger needs adjusted? It might be tripping the sear when the bolt is being closed.
If the BAS screw is tight, you rotate the bolt to closed the position, and you have a fail to fire. Remove the cartridge and look at the primer. If the primer is not dented your accutrigger has tripped the sear and the safety blade has limited the travel of the firing pin. You need to adjust the trigger spring tension and retest..
With my 10 FCP-K .308 I had a similar problem after a few 1000 rounds.
I had my Accu-trigger set at 2 lbs. and apparently the adjustment screw loosened with use.
Eventually, the safety tang on the trigger got very sensitive and any side pressure would lock the trigger.
An energetic bolt closure would trip the safety tang also.
The solution was to reset the trigger to 2 lbs. and put a drop of Loc-tite on it.
It hasn't recurred in over 2000 more rounds.
I'll pull the action out of the stock and check the trigger.
Right now when I have the problem the trigger locks up even the safety tang.
I just thought it was funny that the baffle moved around so much. Is there a set screw in the baffle? If there's a detention ball shouldn't there be a spring and set screw?
I can see two holes on the baffle but no threads on either hole???
The baffle floats and should never be an issue with the cocking or trigger pull. Unless someone has removed the detent balls and the baffle flops around or it falls off, that is not your issue.
I am of the belief you need to tighten the trigger spring. When you have the action out of the gun operate the bolt vigorously and see if the trigger safety blade has caught the sear.
goosedowner,
The safety tang being disturbed makes the trigger lock up because it locks the sear.
That is what protects against a light trigger being jostled and allowing it to fire inadvertently.
The safety tang can be locked by side pressure or a jolt to the rifle.
If the trigger is light, a energetic bolt closure can cause the safety tang to trip and lock the trigger.
Robinhood is right, first tighten the trigger spring and test it to see what setting doesn't cause it to trip.
The model 10 has the LE/Varmint Accu-trigger that can be set down to 1.5 lbs. but I, and two of my shooting buddies, have found that the safety tang gets sensitive when you get close to the lowest setting.
I have found that 2 lbs. works fine as long as the spring set-screw doesn't loosen up.
But only one out of my 7 Savage Accu-triggers experienced the loosening spring effect and that took over 2,000 rounds.
I've got over 11,000 rounds through my original Model 10 FP now on its second barrel and it is still set on the 2 lb. pull, that I set it at in 2008.
IF your gun is equipped with an Accutrigger, under normal conditions when the bolt is closed, the center blade of the accutrigger is easily moved with your finger. If it does not move and if firm to the touch, the accutrigger has tripped and will not fire. Cycling the bolt handle up and back down will reset the accutrigger. If doing this carefully causes the same issue, you'll have to remove the barreled action from the stock and using the small tool provided with your package, set the spring tension higher. A quarter turn at a time is all that's necessary.
With the bolt removed from the action, you can rotate the rear baffle until the ball detent is lined up with the cocking ramp cutout and slide it forward until it pops free. There is no set screw holding the ball detents, but if it's not retracting properly, a drop of oil will usually fix that.
Re-install the reverse of removal, and rotate until ball is in the groove. Now install the action and close the bolt paying particular attention to the primary extraction ramp on the rear baffle and the corresponding ramp on the bolt handle. If these are tight against each other before the bolt is able to rotate into battery position requiring a hard push to close the bolt, some adjustment may be necessary.
If this condition is found to exist, some pictures posted here will help lead to a fix.