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I have a Stevens 200 and I would like to make the bolt less "shiny". Is there a recommended way to remove the chrome (or whatever is making is shiny)? I have access to a sand blaster at work. I would disassemble the bolt, I'm only concerned with the body.
Recommendations?
"......I have access to a sand blaster at work."
WTF............Go for it!
uj
It isn't chromed. It is polished stainless steel I believe. You could give it a matte appearance with the proper media if you blasted.
It is polished stainless. You can blast it to make it matte or scuff it up and paint it.
Thank you sirs!
It's not stainless.....it's 1020 chrome moly tubing and it will rust, especially when blasted if you don't stay on top of it with some rust inhibitor.
+1 - if you blast it, parkerize it or do something or it will rust quick.Quote:
Originally Posted by sharpshooter
You could go "old fashioned " and jewel/engine turn it.
Sorry to dredge this up, but I finally have some time to deal with it. What is on there now to keep it from rusting? It looks like it's 'in the white' but very shiny. I could probably get it parkerized locally relatively inexpensively. What does Savage do on their 10FP's and such?Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric in NC
Thanks!
nitride it. $25 from Freedom guns. then you wont have to worry bout corrosion.
brian
wouldn't that be a 41XX tubing?Quote:
Originally Posted by sharpshooter
A teflon or thin powder coating would minimize wear in the rear of the action. My .$02
blue it with casey birchwood . all mine are black .use the paste, its better. MARK25-06
yes Sha-ul. 1020 is low carbon and is easy to mold, bend, weld, machine and usually case hardened. 4130 is probable for Chromemoly tubing..
My bad...the print just says 1020 tubing.
Is the bolt body heat treated in any way? if not it could be a 10XX series steel, however some mfg, prefer 41XX untreated, it is a little stronger than mild, and a lot more consistent quality wise.Quote:
Originally Posted by sharpshooter
Yes...what the print says verbatim:
heat treat, Cn R15N 89 MIN, case depth .012-.015"
Cn means carbo-nitride,(case harden). The "R15N 89 MIN" has me perplexed. It has something to do with hardness, but the only methods I am familiar with is Rockwell A,B,C scales, Brinell and Shore hardness. Is there another measurement of hardness I have overlooked?
Not that I am aware of, I have some guys on another forum that are metallurgists, maybe they would know.Quote:
Originally Posted by sharpshooter
I blasted it with 80 grit and the Stevens logo came right off and it took on a nice matte finish. I tried the oxpho blue and it turned a weird mottled/swirly light blue color. I blasted that off thinking maybe I left some of the chrome (or whatever coating is on there) on, tried the oxpho blue again with the same results. So, is it made of stainless? If so I will take that coloring off once again and just leave it raw.
No chrome, no coating, not stainless - just hard. Oxpho blue doesn't work for me unless I rub mutliple coats in with steel wool - you won't be able to do that with the blasted surface.
I would paint it (duracoat works great) or park it (it is hard so the park will not look like you expect). The duracoat is probably your best option since you have already blasted it and roughed up the surface so it will stick good.