Another Bedding ?

I'm currently waiting on parts, but I'm tryin to plan ahead. I'm going to put together gun to use in some benchrest factory shoots, along with F-T/R. So I'm getting a target action, savage benchrest stock, and a 30" F-Class 308 barrel.

My thought, is should I consider bedding the 1st inch or so of barrel along with the action. I've only seen this done on rimfire's and never understood why. My guess is there doing that to take stress of the action. And I would think hanging a 30" barrel of the front may put some stress on the action. So bedding the 1st inch would help support the barrel.

I know in benchrest shooting, when hanging a big heavy barrel off the gun they use barrel blocks for that reason.

What's everyone's thoughts on this? I guess I could just do and, if I don't like it just cut it out.

The gunsmith that has done most of my Savage builds beds the first six inches ahead of the barrel nut. I think with a large diameter straight tube that supporting the barrel would take stress off the action. This is just my opinion and all my rifles done this way are great shooters.

300X, I've got a 27" krieger MTU bbl. ( 7.0 lbs ) w/ REM. XP-100 action, Laminated stock. when I bedded the tapered lug I taped the bottom & front of the lug only. Then bedded about 2.5" ahead of the lug. I created a "dam" w/ silly putty to prevent the Devcon from flowing any further forward. The Remy has only two action screws compared to your three. The screw spacing is shorter then your target action. (front screw to back screw) I'm confident your action is as stiff as the remy. The rifle is a tack driver, literally. In my hands or a friends. The extra 2.5" of bedding worked for me. With 6" of bedding I would worry about heat disapation. Just my 2 cents

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Originally Posted by gotcha

300X, I've got a 27" krieger MTU bbl. ( 7.0 lbs ) w/ REM. XP-100 action, Laminated stock. when I bedded the tapered lug I taped the bottom & front of the lug only. Then bedded about 2.5" ahead of the lug. I created a "dam" w/ silly putty to prevent the Devcon from flowing any further forward. The Remy has only two action screws compared to your three. The screw spacing is shorter then your target action. (front screw to back screw) I'm confident your action is as stiff as the remy. The rifle is a tack driver, literally. In my hands or a friends. The extra 2.5" of bedding worked for me. With 6" of bedding I would worry about heat disapation. Just my 2 cents

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That's kinda what I was thinking, 2-3" or so. I'd probably tape the front and sides of recoil lug, along with the barrel nut. Or I could try putting clay in the groves of the nut.

300X, Sounds like a plan! I used the silly putty on the last bbl. nut I did. Kind of time consuming. I see where guys are using thin tape on the bbl. nuts now. I'm thinking about using tape on the next bed. The stretchy kind that would make for a tight fit around the nut. Sounds like you're trying to get a more "monolithic" flow of mud ? Not sayin' thats wrong, just feelin' around for ideas.

Based on my rimfire experience, a lot of the reason for bedding the rear section of the barrel is that many rifles either a) have marginal barrel mounting systems that will allow for barrel movement when compared to the action in some cases, or b) have aluminum receivers which can deform at the barrel/receiver interface if a heavy barrel is completely free-floated. From what I've seen, bedding the barrel is often not done on rifles with threaded barrels/receivers.

I don't know enough about the 110 to say whether it's actually needed, but it certainly can't hurt and is completely reversible if you change your mind.

When I bed 'em, I just do it (with Davcon) up to the nut. I tape off the front, bottom, and side of the recoil lug, and I don't bed any of the barrel.

The Savage receiver is steel, so it's strong enough to support the barrel. Besides, should I switch barrels, the "next" barrel may not have the exact same coutour of the last one....so what is th point of bedding any part of the barrel? Plus, free floating to the barrel nut is the main point of Savage accuracy...along with the tang being free floated.

But....that's what I do. And I'm no expert....at least not when it comes to rifles.

Dave