Newbie Bedding Questions...

Ok i am replacing my tupperware Stevens 200 LA stock with a Boyd's laminate thumbhole stock. I want to pillar and skim bed the action to get it as accurate as I can. Can I bed the pillars and bed the rest of the action at the same time? Or do I need to bed the pillars let it cure and then go back and remove some wood and bed the rest of the action? Just curious as the article 101 doesn't explain this.




http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=2...EDDING_SLEEVES
^Also are these the best pillars for the job? I know I need to notch the rear pillar for sear clearance.

The search function is your friend, but the short answer is yes, all at once. after plenty of prep and research.

Larry
Tinkerer

tink,

thanks for recommending the search function... I did a search and found that YES I can do both at the same time but I am unclear on some things still.

1) are the above pillars the best pillars for bedding the savage action? If I am going to do it I want it done with the right components.

2) I know u use tape around the barrel to and tang to some what float the action (with the pillars attached) but how do you know if you have the action level in the stock? I would think this to be VERY important.

3) No one says how much wood you need to remove when doing both pillar and glass bedding at the same time. Many times people say to remove some wood when the pillars are already in place but I haven't found this answer

Best? pillars. Judgement call. I use straight aluminum ones. The important part, make sure they are clean, degreased, and scratched up a little for epoxy adherence.

Yes, I use tape everywhere I do not epoxy to touch with at least waxed twice. Makes for a nice crisp line.

I make sure the wood is not touching anywhere I want a good coat of epoxy, but I don't go for a 1/2", just enough to make sure no wood is hitting anything critical, like under the barrel at the recoil lug. I always make sure the pillars are attached to the action and will sit into the stock without hitting the wood, than I am SURE the pillars are straight and completely supported by epoxy and not crooked, etc, etc.

If you want to do it 1st class, remove trigger, mag well, and everything and fil crevices with wax and just put epoxy everywhere. Be sure to put tape and polish well where you do not want it adhering. You will have to do a lot of dremel work afterwards, but the support will be 100%.

Good luck, post pics. Watch the video several times. Wax 2X, everywhere.
Larry
Tinkerer

^ I'm sorry what video are you referring to?

Another question I have... if I bed the pillars in and they are too long what is the best method of getting them to lay flush with the stock? Will the dremel be the best tool for this?